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FrozenGate by Avery

Water proof Blu-ray

Success!!! Finally!!!

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Thank you jayrob, flaminpyro, drlava, and iskor12.

Once this thing fired up, it was all worth it!
 
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Great job.....:worthy:
Looks Great. I'm glad to see you got it working. Have you tried it underwater yet?
 
After all the drama I caused myself, I'm afraid to get it wet :)

The instructions you put together we extremely helpful...I'm still impressed with the quality of this build, you picked an excellent host. I was also surprised in how much room there was for the driver. I even wrapped the driver in electrical tape to keep it from touching the sides of the aluminum insert and still had plenty of room.
 
It's still my favorite build. :) I haven't made another one yet....I will when I get some money. :)
12X :)

You wouldn't think that there is much room just by looking at it, but it's a pretty good design, so it all fit's with ease. It's a very small host for what's in it. :)

FYI: It looks amazing underwater. Just make sure all of your seals are good. The one at the lens seems to be the most cryticle. Also it's recomended to turn it on while it's still above the water.
 
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I would like to build one of these... and i was looking it over and i was wondering where i could get the lava v4 drive online. I purchased the flash light and I still need to buy a diode can anyone give me a link where i can get them. Thanks.
 
iskor12 said:
It's still my favorite build. :) I haven't made another one yet....I will when I get some money. :)
12X :)

You wouldn't think that there is much room just by looking at it, but it's a pretty good design, so it all fit's with ease. It's a very small host for what's in it. :)

FYI: It looks amazing underwater. Just make sure all of your seals are good. The one at the lens seems to be the most cryticle. Also it's recomended to turn it on while it's still above the water.
Click to expand...

Regarding your 12X water proof laser...
I originally intended my 12X to be water proof, and even came up with a pretty neat way to keep it water tight and focusable, but opted to keep it "un-waterproof." I can still make the modification, but I don't think I will anytime soon.
My reason is this: With an AR coated glass window, I lose >5% of the power. With uncoated glass, I lose 12% of the power. Now, that may not sound like much, but 12% of 480mW is about 58mW (5% is 24mW). This almost defeats the purpose of using Larry's hi-power lens.

So be wary... You will lose a LOT of power unless you are using AR coated optics. And this power that you are losing is going right back into your laser diode. If you push your diode harder, the numbers will increase. 5% of 500mW is 25mW. 12% of 500mW is 60mW. That's 60mW being introduced back into your diode as heat directly on the die. At 500mW and assuming approximately 5.8Vf and 350mA current draw, the total power going into your laser is about 1.97W. If it is outputting 500mW, then 1.47W is being released as heat. If 60mW is being reflected back into the laser, then your diode needs to dissipate 1.53W of heat... and the worst part is, your Class IV 500mW 12X turns into a Class IIIB 440mW 12X.
The bigger, the output power is, the bigger the "measly" ~12% loss is.
 
I understand all of this...that is why I have AR coated optics. :) My whole point of using Jayrobs blu-ray lens was to counter act the effects of the power loss due to poor optics.

Plus in the end, if I want the extra power, it only takes 30 seconds to take out the lens and to adjust everything. It's not that big of a deal. :)
 
I recently received a new light that is the same exact model that I recomend for this build from DX. I am sad to say that the quality of this light has gone down durasticly.

This in turn could effect how water tight this build will be in the end. Please make sure that all of your seals are good before submerging your build underwater.

This host, even in it's lower quality state, should still be a good host for this build. :)
You might have to buy bettter o-rings for it though. :(
 
Spyderz20x6 said:
That is not possible... :-/

For a fire to start you need oxygen, and there is no oxygen in the water.
The balloons pop due to the latex weakening from the heat of the laser, and then ripping because the latex which is constanly under pressure from the air inside, which causes the balloon to stretch.
But lighting something is a whole different thing.
Click to expand...

so what is water made of? H2O, and how can you explain, you can light flares under water? :P

I didnt know that could be possible. I thought that all the surrounding water would dissipate any heat generated from the laser
 
You know? I managed to get my flashlight housing laser to be waterproof under 10 feet of water for 2 mins. I just used a lot of teflon tape instead of O-rings because the O-rings that came with it dont work.
 
Are you going to trust that teflon tape after removing the battery a few times to recharge?
I would much rather have a design using 2 good o-rings per seal, or just 1 if it tests out good.
 
ok so did anyone else have a problem seperating the orginal driver from the black PBC board? because I just got mine and it looks like it is just on one board. and what is the other LED flashlight? and where can i get it?
 
can u post the link for the second LED flashligh you used? i am pretty sure that they updated this product and it is all one board.
 
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