A sharp, precise file should cut through the heat sink around the diode easily. The material is brittle and should be easy to snap off (carefully) once it's thin enough.Not sure how you'd remove that open-can diode from that housing it's mounted in to then press it into a module, but yeah - these aren't that uncommon.
RA, wouldn't a file cause havoc introducing all sorts of metal particles onto the actual die?A sharp, precise file should cut through the heat sink around the diode easily.
That’s what I was thinking after measuring it. How do I find out voltage and current to drive it atit's definitely not a 3.8mm diode if it's that large! - you'll want a module with a 5.6mm hole for it.
RA, wouldn't a file cause havoc introducing all sorts of metal particles onto the actual die?
I'd start low and ramp up the current slowly. Laser Diodes require current regulation - as their resistance reduces when they get hotter, allowing for thermal runaway & damage if a voltage-regulated supply is used. So you should either use a decent constant-current bench supply, or a dedicated Linear or Buck laser driver designed for red diodes. I'd expect a forward voltage of between 2.5-3V give or take, but it must be current limited, and start with only a few milliamps.How do I find out voltage and current to drive it at
Yes, if you're not careful. In the past when I was extracting most of my diodes, some materials around some diodes were too tough or awkwardly shaped for clippers. A file was the only option. As long as you hold the diode with the emitter facing downward and use good filing technique, it shouldn't be a problem. It was never a problem for me. $0.02RA, wouldn't a file cause havoc introducing all sorts of metal particles onto the actual die?
It won’t be a problem at all given that this diode can be pulled out with ease. Looking at DTR’s shop a module and driver are gonna cost me about $60 bucks......
Has there been a user designed driver that the board files and BOM are available for those that want to order boards and assemble the driver themselves?
Might need a hair more than 5V depending on the LD and current. 5V input in constant current mode gives you a max output of 2.5V.Yep - the cheapest way to put together a driver is definitely an LM317 - look online (or search the forum, top right for the search bar!) for schematics.
The higher the difference between input and output the more the LM317 IC will dissipate as heat, so I suggest to power it off a 5V input. An LM317 cannot boost the output voltage to cause a constant current to flow - only drop it, so it will likely be badly current limited if you try and use a single Li-Ion battery or something.