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FrozenGate by Avery

The E-drive (V3) + PDF

Re: The E-drive Intro (V1 and V2)

If you opted to make a larger round board version could they be easier to make?
 





Re: The E-drive Intro (V1 and V2)

TheDukeAnumber1 said:
If you opted to make a larger round board version could they be easier to make?
Click to expand...

It's not the actual size of the board that's the problem, it's just the actual main IC itself that's the problem. Pinless packages are a real pain to reflow, and to get the solder paste on properly.

I have improved the ease of it by making the pads on the board larger so it should be easier.

The adjustable board reflowed well the first time, so that's a good sign definitely. :P
 
Re: The E-drive Intro (V1 and V2)

So, I got 6 adjustable E-drives together, and poked around some on them, and could not figure out what causes the problem with the current changing between buck and boost mode... I do believe it lies within the switch current of the driver limiting the current output when it is in boost mode, but I do not know for certain.

HOWEVER. There is a trick around it.

When setting your current level (and you wish for your laser to be able to use one OR two cells, for blue and violet builds) make certain you set the output current when it is in BUCK mode with two cells. When it is set in buck mode the current level is higher than what it would be in boost mode, so when you switch to one cell, the current will still be safe for the laser diode.

I hate workarounds, but I don't have any other ideas how to fix it. I'm quite sure it's just inherent to the main IC itself unfortunately.
 
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Re: The E-drive Intro (V1 and V2)

I will look into that problem when I receive a board to test ... Not sure if Tom sent me any yet :D
 
Re: The E-drive Intro (V1 and V2)

great.. Do you recommend them for 9mm , probably @2A+ if so i'll take it
 
Re: The E-drive Intro (V1 and V2)

sinner said:
great.. Do you recommend them for 9mm , probably @2A+ if so i'll take it
Click to expand...

I would love to but I can't really ship to international locations unfortunately...

Otherwise, I would say yes, but only if you give it two cells. One cell is limited to about 1.2 amps boosting.
 
Re: The E-drive Intro (V1 and V2)

I read that in your other thread just now, I was really looking forward to test one of your drivers and see what the hardwork has yeilded..

If/when you start shipping them, count me in.. just let me know the details via pm..
 
Re: The E-drive Intro (V1 and V2)

I sent you a PM Sinner.

Also, all 6 of the adjustables are still here. They're the new fancy layouts too with a sizable heatsink pad on the back.
 
Re: The E-drive Intro (V1 and V2)

Everyone wanted a PDF, so, I finally made one. It's attached in the very first post.

I lack a camera that can do macro photos, so that'll have to wait a bit unfortunately.
 
Ahh thank you so much! It helps a lot to keep a reference on my machine so I don't have to search around it.
 
Hey there, I got 1 driver tested out. Without heatsinking and using 2 IMR 18650 batteries it puts out a max of 1.6A. In your PDF you state: "2 fully charged Li-ion cells - 2.3-2.4 amps max (depends heavily on heatsinking)" Does that mean that if I thermal epoxy this driver to a heatsink that the 1.6A will jump to 2.3A?
 
yobresal said:
Hey there, I got 1 driver tested out. Without heatsinking and using 2 IMR 18650 batteries it puts out a max of 1.6A. In your PDF you state: "2 fully charged Li-ion cells - 2.3-2.4 amps max (depends heavily on heatsinking)" Does that mean that if I thermal epoxy this driver to a heatsink that the 1.6A will jump to 2.3A?
Click to expand...

I think that if the current is properly set to 1.6A (correct resistance and all) it won't jump with heatsinking.
 
That's what I figured but then I am left with only 1.6A which is not enough power for this 9mm diode.
 
yobresal said:
That's what I figured but then I am left with only 1.6A which is not enough power for this 9mm diode.
Click to expand...

I think you should heatsink the driver when setting the current and then test it with and without heatsink to see what currents does it produce. We are talking about the pot version, right?
 
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