Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

The amazing 322mW Dilda






Did you use the red DX 200 mw laser for 43.5 USD?

I am greek, can you explain what exactly did you do with it plz?
 
Silvershot said:
Did you use the red DX 200 mw laser for 43.5 USD?

I am greek, can you explain what exactly did you do with it plz?
Click to expand...
What does you being greek have to do with anything?
 
Silvershot said:
Did you use the red DX 200 mw laser for 43.5 USD?

I am greek, can you explain what exactly did you do with it plz?
Click to expand...

If you read all the Posts in this thread... you will know exactly what I did.... :)
 
lasersbee said:
... that if you increase the voltage to the
"regulator board" it will not regulate the laser diode's voltage or current but it will
increase the output power of said diode...
Click to expand...

Can you explain how to do this? Can you send a photo?
 
Yes.... take out the batteries and attach a variable regulated power supply
to the battery leads of the Dilda Laser...

Sorry... I don't have any photos....
And yes it is the DX200 Red Laser for $43.00...  :)
 
I guess it will have its limits though... 12V seems excessive and likely to blow up the driver after a short period in any case.

The driver is a bit of an odd thing though, not all current seems to go through the diode. Perhaps someone could measure the diode current required for say 250 or 300 mW, but i think it won't last very long abused like that.
 
Benm said:
I guess it will have its limits though... 12V seems excessive and likely to blow up the driver after a short period in any case.

The driver is a bit of an odd thing though, not all current seems to go through the diode. Perhaps someone could measure the diode current required for say 250 or 300 mW, but i think it won't last very long abused like that.
Click to expand...

Agreed... the driver wouldn't last very long... but using a better driver with a better heat sink...
I think the Dilda LD would work for quite a while at 250mW - 300mW... IMO 8-)

It wasn't meant as a "safe" build for other members to do...
It was just an experiment that I performed and was able to pump 12volts at over 600ma into a
lowly DX200 Red Dilda (my weakest one received from DX)... without modifications... and I got 322mW...
for at least 20 seconds "ON" time with a 30 second to 1 minute "OFF" time..  :-?

It only proved that the Dilda Driver was NOT regulated... they could have just used a Resistor...
the way the Dilda Driver heats up... ;D
It also showed that the Dilda Red LD is under driven... and by using 3.6V batteries instead of the 3.0V
batteries you would get your DX200 Red Dilda up to 200mW at least. :o

There is member "Kage" that actually swapped out the Dilda driver for a better one... and got over
300mW with the original Dilda Red Laser Diode in the original Dilda housing...

http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1224120943/31#31

That would be my next step.... or make a Mega-Dilda (240mW) like "Rattlehead" did a while ago... :)

Jerry
 
Not regulated is perhaps an overstatement, but badly regulated for sure.

One interesting option would be to replace the driver with a AMC7315 chip, which would provide it with a constant 350 mA. Might require some heatsinking, but the copper area of the pcb space would likely more than suffice.

It's even conceivable to leave the existing circuit board there for is space, connection to the LD and spring, and just remove some components so you can electrically replace it. To me its a miracle how the manufacturer of these things didn't do exactly that, but chose this oddball driver setup over a less-than-$1 chip.
 
Benm said:
Not regulated is perhaps an overstatement, but badly regulated for sure.

One interesting option would be to replace the driver with a AMC7315 chip, which would provide it with a constant 350 mA. Might require some heatsinking, but the copper area of the pcb space would likely more than suffice.

It's even conceivable to leave the existing circuit board there for is space, connection to the LD and spring, and just remove some components so you can electrically replace it. To me its a miracle how the manufacturer of these things didn't do exactly that, but chose this oddball driver setup over a less-than-$1 chip.
Click to expand...

When input power follows output power... that is not regulated... Regulated is holding a constant
preadjusted output voltage or current while varying input voltage (within specs of the regulator). 8-)

I agree...the AMC7315 chip is a viable option...  :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.





Back
Top