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FrozenGate by Avery

Taking apart wicked lasers old school evolution.

Pushing it out from the back is probably not an option. I tried it with a pencil and I think the driver started to flex a little bit.
 





Here is what I would suggest with minimal damage and only a drill.

Get a decent size piece of flat metal stock and drill a hole in it that lets the aperture cap still screw into the laser. Then find some way to hold the metal stock down (vice, vicegrips, clamps etc...) and pull the host straight up. It should let the module stay put but let the host slide off.

howto.jpg


See if that works, if it does I want pictures of the guts :P
 
This makes me want an old school Evo. I always liked the case.

Me too! And correct if me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure you can still buy them direct off of WL's site... I mean they're still on there (all the old models, except the ancient CNI Black'nGolds of course).

-Chris
 
They're labeled as "Availability: Discontinued" and there's an all caps "Not available to US residents" logo above that.
 
Oh you're right, that's the only one that's been discontinued but is still listed on their website (to my knowledge). As far as getting the older, pre-2010 models into the U.S., if you're hell-bent on it, something can always be arranged ;)

But it's still sad to see such a great host be discontinued :cryyy:

-Chris
 
Here is what I would suggest with minimal damage and only a drill.

Get a decent size piece of flat metal stock and drill a hole in it that lets the aperture cap still screw into the laser. Then find some way to hold the metal stock down (vice, vicegrips, clamps etc...) and pull the host straight up. It should let the module stay put but let the host slide off.

howto.jpg


See if that works, if it does I want pictures of the guts :P
That's a good idea, but one must consider that there is abnormaly large surface of module and host in touch and in tight fit,

I'd surely estimate around one hour of full-strenght pulling and a bit of "wiggling" it to finally work it out...

Well, one just could machine some sort of thin barrel that will press against the end of the module from the battery end, but would not touch the driver, and it could be used to press the module out, given you can use something to support the host but not the module as it comes out.

Even after all that trouble, it still maybe be glued inside, I remember one keychain that I've disassembled for the purpose of replacing the boost driver (takes AAA) for 1117 , so it can take 10440, a friend asked me to do that because AAAs are pretty expensive, good ones.

I gotta make a thread about that, case negative 808nm pump O.o and stuff suprised me.

Point is, I found traces of glue residue after finally pulling the end cap, which was holding the module, out of the barrel. Construction similar to newwish though, very small fit surface. But glue was still there, making my day.
 
From my recent "autopsy" of a newwish host, I've noticed that some lasers have their module secured to the host wall with superglue, or some other adhesive. Since your host is all metal, i'd try two things...

first heat up the area of the host where the module is so that if there's any glue, it will soften it a bit, and the metals might contract enough to loosen the module, then just gently try to push down the module... not all the way, just a bit. When the module will be loosened, it will only be a matter of gently pushing it in or out.

A good source of heat could be either the flame of a torch (from a distance) or even very hot tap water... then PontiacG5's setup could be an excellent method to pull out the module assembly intact...

Robert
 
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From my recent "autopsy" of a newwish host, I've noticed that some lasers have their module secured to the host wall with superglue, or some other adhesive. Since your host is all metal, i'd try two things...

first heat up the area of the host where the module is so that if there's any glue, it will soften it a bit, and the metals might contract enough to loosen the module, then just gently try to push down the module... not all the way, just a bit. When the module will be loosened, it will only be a matter of gently pushing it in or out.

A good source of heat could be either the flam of a torch (from a distance) or even very hot tap water...

Robert

Well actually, I am not sure what material is host made of, but both of the metals will expand and I would not be too sure of the fact that it will come off more easier than normal, besides if it is secured by glue, there really is not much one could do about it, especially if it's some sort of vapour less epoxy (more sense), that'll never let go.

OP, a member Jayrob here sells fantastic hosts, pen style, 2x AAA, can get chrome or black, for $14 shipped, search in Pro laser sell section, or whatever it's called.
 
Ill try the hot water method and see if that works, and maybe I have some sheet metal lying around. The reason why I want to take this apart is because its lasing is pretty dim, and I have a higher powered module that I want to put inside it. Also the WL host is just really solid and well made, I don't want to let it go to waste.

Also, if you notice, there's a gap between the threaded tube inside and the host itself. I don't know what that could mean, maybe it really is glued inside?

Thanks for all the help guys.
 
Re: Taking apart wicked lasers evolution.

About 3 years? I can't for the life of me figure out how to take this apart.

DSC01650.jpg

It's been awhile

IIRC the laser is pressed together at the grooves above and below the button. Maybe just one < shrug > Then the module is pressed out the rear (pushing from the front)

Try holding it in a vice, at the module end, wrapped in leather. Then pull and "wiggle" the rear of the host. Don't get too energetic or you can bend the host.

I did an upgrade on one once where I had to ream out the head a bit to accommodate the larger size of the new module.

Peace,
dave
 
Re: Taking apart wicked lasers evolution.

It's been awhile

IIRC the laser is pressed together at the grooves above and below the button. Maybe just one < shrug > Then the module is pressed out the rear (pushing from the front)

Try holding it in a vice, at the module end, wrapped in leather. Then pull and "wiggle" the rear of the host. Don't get too energetic or you can bend the host.

I did an upgrade on one once where I had to ream out the head a bit to accommodate the larger size of the new module.

Peace,
dave

So it's not all in one piece? I thought those grooves were machined in, at least from what I can see.

I've tried pushing from the front to the end (aperture to battery compartment), with no luck.

I'm not really getting what you mean when you tell me to pull or wiggle at the rear of the host. Maybe a diagram would help better explain? I always get diagrams.
 
Re: Taking apart wicked lasers evolution.

So it's not all in one piece? I thought those grooves were machined in, at least from what I can see.

I've tried pushing from the front to the end (aperture to battery compartment), with no luck.

I'm not really getting what you mean when you tell me to pull or wiggle at the rear of the host. Maybe a diagram would help better explain? I always get diagrams.

Wrap leather around the front portion of the laser (in front of the first groove). Then clamp it into a vice. Then grasp the rest of the laser in your hand and pull while moving your hand back-and-forth slightly

Peace,
dave
 
Wow this is tough, how long did it take you to get take it apart? I hope I'm doing it right, I've been clamping it between the button and the battery compartment.
 


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