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FrozenGate by Avery

Stripping a benq dw1620

anselm said:
Sparks? That's bad.
Silly question: is the iron for the same voltage that you have at home? 110V or 220V?
The solder doesn't stick because the diode's pin is cold.
Read some of this:
http://technologyinterface.nmsu.edu/fall97/electronics/solder.html
Electronics Primer: How to Solder Electronic Components

Don't mess with your precious diode until you've got the technique!
Click to expand...

Yeah we got 220v in Italy and so it's wrote on the solderer... btw the diode was hot, also the plastic part was hot. I don't know now, it seems broken, when I shake it there something loose in it, I'll try to dismantle it and see what's wrong..
 





I don't think this is normal, one of the two cable is detached.

2ns7rz4.jpg
 
This is deffinetly not normal, the cable that is of would be either the positive or the negative and without both it will not work. If you had another soldering iron it would be a simple matter of soldering it back on but without one it may be difficult. I think your best option would be to either get your money back and buy a new one or take it to an electronics shop and ask if they can solder the wire back on.
 
alf638 said:
This is deffinetly not normal, the cable that is of would be either the positive or the negative and without both it will not work. If you had another soldering iron it would be a simple matter of soldering it back on but without one it may be difficult. I think your best option would be to either get your money back and buy a new one or take it to an electronics shop and ask if they can solder the wire back on.
Click to expand...

I think I'm going to ask for a sostitution to the ebay shop...
 
Stuipid isn't it, how would you know the soldering iron dose,nt work if you don't open it?, stupid ebay people :mad:
 
Well, the fact that it gave off sparks while it didn't get hot might've been a dead giveaway.:rolleyes:
 
The soldering on the test load should be good, mine is worse but it still works well. To connect the driver to the test load, I recomend soldering a wire to each side of the test load and then attach the side with the resistor to the positive of the driver, (the left connection point above the black voltage regulator at the top). Then attach the other end of the test load to the driver negative(next to the positive).
Now to connect the battery to the driver attach wires to each end of the battery and then put the positive to the middle connection point at the bottom and the negative to the connection point next to it.
I hope I have helped and if you need more help or clarification just ask;)
 
Thank you for the explanation but I don't think I have understood well enough, could you refer to the connection points by the numbers I gave to them please?

2jcvhc8.jpg
 
Both 1 and 2 are same point, you can see them connected with a trace.

Connect your battery positive there, battery negative to 3, laser diode positive to 4, and laser diode negative to, presumably pad on the other side of the PCB.
 
hello everyone I'm back! I've bought a new soldering iron (that turned out not so much better than the older one) and I came back to the project.
I've done the testing circuit, soldering the resistors together but without solder on the circuit nor the battery, just electrical tape and coiled wire, I think it should work.
Question is: should I solder the wire from the negative of the diode (or from the negative of the resistors for now) to the pad pointed in this really bad quality photo? (I'm sorry but I can't have a better resolution pic, my Ideos sucks in making photos), all other connections have an hole to put wires inside, this one doesn't. The point under it is the 4 of the previous pic saw from the other side.
91m0ev.jpg


Also, when I'll have to misure the ΔV, where do I have to point the graduate wheel of the current meter? There are a lot of options.

Thank you very much :)
 
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