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FrozenGate by Avery

Sony 20x burners $24 at Newegg

teeroy said:
This is the second diode I've killed.  I have a adjustable power supply that adjusts current and voltage independently. (like this one in the picture) Do I still need a driver? Or should I still use a variable resister in line?  I'm almost ready to give up.

I didn't get to the end of the thread yet, so i don't know if this was mentioned...

But i also managed to kill several LDs, when i hooked them up to my lab PSU. Mine also has adjustable voltage and current limiting, so i thought if i set the current to a safe level, i should be fine. If you set the current to 200mA it automatically drops the voltage to a value, where the current you set flows through the LD.. I believed this and a capacitor on the LD was all that was needed.

I got lucky a few times, and the LD survived, but many died this way. In one case i was even using a driver circuit, only that it was powered from my PSU, instead of a battery. I even had a cap directly on the LD. But then i went to reposition it, touched it and it suddenly lost 3/4 of it's power.


From now on i'm only using batteries. A PSU gives ESD a path to discharge through. A battery doesn't. I believe most of my dead LDs are dead because of just this.

Build a proper driver circuit and power it from batteries, also make yourself a grounded wrist strap, and you should be fine.
 





This is what i can find in my country: 20x Sony NEC Optiarc AD-7200A-0B

On another thread i read it's supposed to be AD-7190A... I'm worried, because of buying a drive before, only to find no can at all, just a bare laser chip..

Is 7200 the same? All the DVD burning speeds match... Could be just a firmware update.

Unfortunatelly it costs 50$ in my country.. I envy you guys, who could get two for this price.. :( Need to find a shop that ships these internationally..
 
just to verify, the red diode in the sony is the one mounted to the main body, not floating on its own little heatsink at an angle?
 
You can actually see the base of the red diode after you remove the mylar. Then just carefully remove the glue and pry up on the diode. The infrared diode is recessed into its heatsink.
 
does anyone have an open can to spare? Im willing to pay ;D

sorry for OT,

amk
 
Has anyone here tried the Sony NEC Optiarc 20x 7200A?

I have the possibility of ordering it through my familys computer company, for cheap, but i got so many lemons so far, that i'm worried, it might not be the same as the 7190A....
 
IgorT said:
Has anyone here tried the Sony NEC Optiarc 20x  7200A?

I have the possibility of ordering it through my familys computer company, for cheap, but i got so many lemons so far, that i'm worried, it might not be the same as the 7190A....

if noone offers me a salvaged diode, and your drives are cheaper that these, hook me up with some! ;D
 
amkdeath said:
if noone offers me a salvaged diode, and your drives are cheaper that these, hook me up with some!  ;D

I'm sorry, but i don't think i can get them cheaper than $24..

In my country, these drives cost $50! That's why i would rather order one through our computer company, to get them a bit cheaper... Still, it wouldn't come close to the Price on NewEgg..


Right now my arrangement with them is, that they give me all the broken DVD burners, that are out of warranty.. Unfortunatelly, this doesn't happen often enough, and i'm limited to Samsung..

The 16x were very good diodes, but the 18x and 20x are those flat laser chips.. So, my free supply is slowly but surely coming to an end.
 
IgorT said:
[quote author=amkdeath link=1202158967/75#87 date=1203299776]if noone offers me a salvaged diode, and your drives are cheaper that these, hook me up with some!  ;D

I'm sorry, but i don't think i can get them cheaper than $24..

In my country, these drives cost $50! That's why i would rather order one through our computer company, to get them a bit cheaper... Still, it wouldn't come close to the Price on NewEgg..


Right now my arrangement with them is, that they give me all the broken DVD burners, that are out of warranty.. Unfortunatelly, this doesn't happen often enough, and i'm limited to Samsung..

The 16x were very good diodes, but the 18x and 20x are those flat laser chips.. So, my free supply is slowly but surely coming to an end.[/quote]


can you please define flat laser chip?
 
The closest i can get to these models and prices is Sony NEC Optiarc 7200A for 27€ or 7191A for 30€.

I wrote the shop selling them an email, asking what the difference is. It's still gonna cost me $40...
 
Does anyone know, if the NewEgg version has LightScribe?

Looking at the specs, on another site, it should be without, since the LightScribe models end with 1.

I just found the correct drive, so i'm wondering if there's a difference between the LightScribe model and no LS model.. Or is it just the firmware?


Any thoughts?
 
amkdeath said:
can you please define flat laser chip?

It's a small black square.. It doesn't remind of a laser diode at all. And it's glued on a piece of metal for heat sinking..

When powered, it gives of a lot of power. The problem is mounting it. You can't just stick it in an AixiZ module..


I don't know, how to explain what it looks like, i'll try to find a picture, or make one, if i didn't throw it away yet.... I think there is even a pic of something similiar on this thread already..



EDIT: Post #21 in this link is the diode i found in the Samsung 18X. Only that the one in this picture is actually in even more metal, than the one i found was:
http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1200364161/15
 
Anyway, i decided to order the Sony NEC Optiarc AD-7191A for 30€ with shipping.

Should be here on wednesday.


I'm hoping for the best, keeping my fingers crossed....
 
20x LGs are also well worth harvesting for diodes /and quite a few ceramic caps in the microfarad range/. ive dissected 2 so far
 





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