Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

LPF Donation via Stripe | LPF Donation - Other Methods

Links below open in new window

ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Some help with fixing my power meter

Joined
Oct 18, 2013
Messages
928
Points
63
So ages ago the sensor connection port on my Radiant X4 LPM broke, and today I finally got a replacement connector in the mail and got it all fixed up. Sadly though, when I went to retrieve the sensor, I discovered this:

ENHUQf8l.jpg


The sensor is completely ruined. Not sure how this happened, might have dropped it at one point and never noticed, but I'm wondering now if this is repairable. I tried seeing if I could simply order a replacement sensor, but the link on Radiant's website to their online store just goes to a 404 page.

Looks like is just simply a thermoelectric device, so it could potentially be replaced. I'm hoping someone on here might know what the part number is, or suggest replacements. Its 1.5cm square in size if that helps.

Theres a trim pot on the Radiant X4, I'm willing to bet thats used for calibrating the sensor, so even if its not an identical TEM I should be able to adjust for differences.

Thanks!
 





Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
17,622
Points
113
Man.. BK... It's not your week...:cryyy:

It looks an over temperature or mechanical
force failure.

The trimpot is for the LCD contrast if indeed it's
a Radiant X4 LPM you have.

IIRC...the calibration is done in software...
You will need to get a hold of the original
sellers/manufacturers to get a replacement
and instructions on calibration.
Good luck...

Jerry
 
Last edited:
Joined
Oct 18, 2013
Messages
928
Points
63
Well shite. The original sellers are MIA....

Hmm, perhaps if I can un-glue the TEM from the heatsink it will have a part number on it.

Anyone know a good way to remove thermal glue?
 
Last edited:
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
17,622
Points
113
I's always better to buy a product from a
seller that you know will be around when
you need them even if the initial cost is a
bit higher. A bargain is not always a bargain...

Maybe someone on the Forum has some
contact info. IIRC.. The seller was also on
a Flashlight Forum.

He was also on PL with the same UserName
as here.

Jerry
 
Last edited:
Joined
Oct 18, 2013
Messages
928
Points
63
I found him on here, his last post was in 2015.... Not sure I'll be able to get help then.
 
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
17,622
Points
113
Good luck...
FYI... I have a brand new X4 on the shelf
in the shop with the 3D printed case.

Jerry
 
Joined
Oct 18, 2013
Messages
928
Points
63
eh. Its got an Atmel chip and a nice LCD module. Maybe Ill modify it into something else so the X4 body doesn't go to waste.
 
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
17,622
Points
113
eh. Its got an Atmel chip and a nice LCD module. Maybe Ill modify it into something else so the X4 body doesn't go to waste.
That's not a bad idea...
We often use the LaserBee I and LaserBee II
PCBs in the shop to make prototype MCU
controllers for other than LPM projects.

I have one running our Solder Re-Flow oven.

Jerry
 
Joined
Sep 20, 2013
Messages
17,402
Points
113
Could try setting it on fire... That might work! :thinking:

:crackup: Diachi, you are killing me! That got an audible laugh out of me.

Yeah, there's no way you are going to be able to repair that and get it calibrated too. Mine still works great, but I keep it boxed up when not in use, though I've used it hundreds of times.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jul 27, 2007
Messages
3,642
Points
63
It takes a pretty serious impact to cleave a TEC in half like that - a drop sounds likely.

You can replace the TEC with pretty much any similarly sized ones and paint it black. The calibration will likely not be the same, not sure if those have a user accessible calibration menu or not. High temperature paints will offer better damage thresholds.

As for removing the old one, heating it with a torch can soften thermal epoxy and allow you to pop off the remainder with a chisel/screwdriver/etc.
 
Joined
Oct 18, 2013
Messages
928
Points
63
Hmm. If I can remove it somewhat intact I might be able to get a model number for the TEC then I could replace it with an identical model..
 

diachi

0
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
9,700
Points
113
Hmm. If I can remove it somewhat intact I might be able to get a model number for the TEC then I could replace it with an identical model..


Problem then is finding a coating that's both broadband and has a high damage threshold, then you need to re-calibrate it, which you can't do without another calibrated LPM.

Better to buy something else I'd say, though it doesn't hurt to try! :)

Diachi, you are killing me! That got an audible laugh out of me.

Glad you appreciated it! :crackup:
 
Last edited:
Joined
Sep 20, 2013
Messages
17,402
Points
113
Both excellent points. Even if you somehow manage to find a broadband coating for the TEC, you still have to calibrate it. Can't be done without lasers of known powers.
 
Joined
Jan 29, 2014
Messages
12,031
Points
113
If that was my power meter, I'd forget it myself, abandon all hope!
 





Top