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Re: Aluminum's ability to transfer heat w/ paint?
Unless the grooves are deep, I would block sand it and not use paint.
Unless the grooves are deep, I would block sand it and not use paint.
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I already painted it all!
If it only decreases its transfer rate by a little as said by Teej, it isn't that big of a deal. Plus, my Labby should be happier to be on an aluminum plate then wood
Edit: The paint did help to make the groves less deep!
-Alex
You are too impatient and should have waited until this thread reaches page 3. :crackup:
Alan
If you were to decide take the paint off you could use turpentine or paint thinner, mek or Methyl Ethel ketone will strip the paint off a car but you should wear gloves, I used lots of it and I'm ok .....ish, but the smoother you start the better, if you sand it you will scratch it, so you would need to use fine sandpaper then ultra fine, like auto body 2000-6000 grit but it will be slow to remove the paint, chemical removal then ultra fine sandpaper then metal polish.
OR, you could just use a razor knife and a razor blade and strip off the strips where your unit makes contact, then use some heatsink paste to bond it and leave the rest painted.
Honestly you probably don't need it, your laser head should be tec anyway, point a fan at it if you are worried about long run times.
The heads are TEC, yes. I have a fan on top of the loft where I run my labbies hehe so it should be ok.
Would such a thing be ok for those pesky DPSS units as well? Am I harming my labby with the plate?
-Alex
The heads are TEC, yes. I have a fan on top of the loft where I run my labbies hehe so it should be ok.
Would such a thing be ok for those pesky DPSS units as well? Am I harming my labby with the plate?
-Alex
What's your lasers output? It's DPSS right? If 532nm then your pump diode will be about 5 times your output.
If it's yellow then you have a lot more waste heat.