SOLDERING WITH LIGHT / 1.55W 445nm L.A.S.E.R

[Atomicrox]

Its done with IR also, so id imagine there is a point where a red will do
it. Only one way to find out

Won't even heat up with the reddie. My 200 mW 405 nm is way too weak as well :/

 

[foulmist]

Won't even heat up with the reddie. My 200 mW 405 nm is way too weak as well :/

yep I just tried it myself with ~250-300mW red.It is almost reflected 100%

 

[JLSE]

Won't even heat up with the reddie. My 200 mW 405 nm is way too weak as well :/

Red will probably have to be a really high mW.. The wavelength is not nearly
as effective as the 405. I would think even for the 405nm you will need
4-500mW at minimum. I used a 12x for the 405, but the 445 wins for speed..

yep I just tried it myself with ~250-300mW red.It is almost reflected 100%

If you're running your diode at its upper end, be weary of
back reflection... You dont want an LED on your hands :undecided:

 

[Atomicrox]

Red will probably have to be a really high mW.. The wavelength is not nearly
as effective as the 405. I would think even for the 405nm you will need
4-500mW at minimum. I used a 12x for the 405, but the 445 wins for speed..



If you're running your diode at its upper end, be weary of
back reflection... You dont want an LED on your hands :undecided:

I'd like to see someone with a really powerful red try this

The reflection can kill the diode? Didn't know about it but it does make sense. I'll be far more careful from now on!

 

[JLSE]

I'd like to see someone with a really powerful red try this

The reflection can kill the diode? Didn't know about it but it does make sense. I'll be far more careful from now on!

If you have an old diode, or one you dont care about, shine it into a mirror..
It wont take long to LED it. By reflecting back, you increase the optical flux
within the cavity. The diode will LED very fast if its already running a high output
near or past its maximum rating.

405's are very sensitive to this. Commonly known as COD.

You can also use a similar method to stabilize the 445nm diodes at lower current this way. :shhh:

 

[Atomicrox]

If you have an old diode, or one you dont care about, shine it into a mirror..
It wont take long to LED it. By reflecting back, you increase the optical flux
within the cavity. The diode will LED very fast if its already running a high output
near or past its maximum rating.

405's are very sensitive to this. Commonly known as COD.

You can also use a similar method to stabilize the 445nm diodes at lower current this way. :shhh:

Cool, so I can kinda make a low power 445 that way?
How low are we talking?

 

[JLSE]

Cool, so I can kinda make a low power 445 that way?
How low are we talking?

Im not sure of all the particulars, I had read an article by somebody attempting
to use the 445 LD when they first came out for holography..

There was mention of stabilizing the output at low current, but came to the conclusion
that they are not good for his use.

His experiments and notes were in the blog or whatever it was that I read.
If I can find the link I will post it for you..

 

[Atomicrox]

Cool, thanks!

 

[AnthoT]

this is so cool :beer: ill try making a driver like this one day ill let you know how it goes

 

[Machinist Joe]

Ha! I live in America and whenever I properly pronounce solder people correct me as if I am wrong. LOL

One gripe- I know this is an American forum but I wish you as a nation would learn that the "L" in solder is NOT silent!

Wannaburn, you know what would be a cool idea? Setting up a labby like you have, but when powered on has a very low but visible output, then having a foot pedal under the desk, that when pressed kicks the laser into high mode. That way you dont burn the board when you havent aligned the joint yet. What do you think?

 

[JLSE]

Ha! I live in America and whenever I properly pronounce solder people correct me as if I am wrong. LOL


Wannaburn, you know what would be a cool idea? Setting up a labby like you have, but when powered on has a very low but visible output, then having a foot pedal under the desk, that when pressed kicks the laser into high mode. That way you dont burn the board when you havent aligned the joint yet. What do you think?

If you were to use this for soldering SMD, you eliminate the solder iron tip
so it may be an interesting idea to try. A foot switch would make a lot of sense
and would not be that difficult to setup.

A beefy resistor to keep the current low, and the switch acting as a bypass
to allow ful current to the driver for the LD..

Be worth a try for sure :beer:

 

[lowell389]

Well, that worked better than I was thinking would be possible.
Good job on the video.