SOLDERING WITH LIGHT / 1.55W 445nm L.A.S.E.R

[foulmist]

Re: SOLDERING SMD / PCB WITH A 1.55W 445nm L.A.S.E.R + VIDEO

Yeah, that's very lucky I guess

Mine was damaged even without a direct hit. It was just a scattered reflection only :yabbmad:

I should becareful with 405nm more then ..

Maybe its just this cam.. I bought this one new a while back, in the first few days
damaged the CCD via 130mW 405.. It was my fault, so there was no way I was going to use the
warranty being my mistake. I picked up a used cam on ebay, the same make but
was broken. Switched out the CCD and it was like new again.

Since I have hit it a few times, even a direct hit with 445. The only damage I have
ever had was from the shorter 405's.

405 was also responsible for the damage in my old panasonic. Though it was weird
that the 445 did nothing, maybe just got lucky on the make of the cams. :thinking:

 

[JLSE]

Re: SOLDERING SMD / PCB WITH A 1.55W 445nm L.A.S.E.R + VIDEO

The cam I have now is getting on in years, so when it finally begins to really fail
which its getting close to, I will be sure to make a comparison video of a direct hit
from a 445 and 405 and see which can inflict the most damage..

I had not stated before, this one is a 7.2Mp Sony Cybershot.. nothing glamorous for sure.

 

[Benm]

I'd really keep all cameras you hold dear far from any class 3 laser. Its not that hard to damage a camera, even 200 mW reds will easily cause damage if you're out of luck.

Perhaps 445s will not blow pixels off the sensor, but there is also the risk of bleaching/burning of the color filter... this wouldnt result in dead or hot pixels directly, but can still ruin photographs taken later on.

I usually use an older camera when taking pictures of laser beams and such when there is even a remote chance of the beam going directly into the lens (like a lasershow projected towards the camera).

 

[JLSE]

I completely agree.. If you value your cam, use some sort of filter like an old set
of spare goggles etc.. This cam is getting old so I don't mind the risk.

When I first got this cam, I was taking a video of a 405 in a cheap(ish) scanner.
The exposure was brief in a sweep across the lens, the result was a line burned right into
the CCD in milliseconds

Since the arrival of the 445's I have yet to notice any difference in my pics, no missing
pixels, or burn marks. I'd imagine a direct hit at 1.5W would be catastrophic for the
CCD, there is no argument there..

I just noticed that 405 is far more dangerous to cams, at least from what I've experienced.

You can bet I would not make videos like the one in this thread with a new cam,
that is for sure.

I was originally going to use a filter to shoot the video, but seeing that blue beam performing the task
was just too tempting. :eg:

 

[jakeGT]

Can anybody say they haven't experienced 405 at work? My 820mW 405 burned a 1,009 times better than my 2W 445s ever did.

 

[Cyparagon]

^How many metals have you burned? You need raw power here. A small spot size doesn't matter much when the target dissipates heat very quickly.
You need to heat the whole joint anyway, so it's pointless.

 

[JLSE]

Found a video of this procedure with IR.. Not very exiting :undecided:

Though the narrator sounds VERY exited



Should also note, this is how our beloved diodes are made.. Perhaps not all
but many have the chip mounted with laser.

 

[Savage]

A while back I melted some solder with a class 4 405nm, and have also tried it with
a high power 445nm. Today I decided to try this again, but with the idea of actually
soldering with one. The results can be seen in the below video.

While it is nothing new, its an interesting idea which can be done by anybody with a high
power 445. I would however recommend that you have a decent set of goggles as the
reflections are intense. When the solder melts, its like pointing into a mirror.. Although
very scattered, do not attempt this unless you know your goggles will protect you.

I was amazed at the speed that I could flow the solder onto the PCB as well as various
SMD components such as 0805 resistors and caps.

Interesting demo but i think i'll keep my reflow station for now.

 

[AUS]

Interesting that in the commercial IR soldering they use temperature control to kill the laser before the pads start ablating! Must be fairly night power.

I showed this to my apprentice and he now wants to build some super soldering machine - he already went though all the IR diodes I've harvested from sleds.

I'm going to need some IR glasses now *sigh*

 

[tsteele93]

I tried this with my 1.4W 445 SL with very little (no) luck.

I'm going to try again with a holder for the laser.

 

[JLSE]

I was still able to do this as the battery began to drop, so you have
enough power at 1.4W, just need to steady things out.

Also, the PCB in the video was raw bare copper, if you are
trying this with a pad that has already been tinned, it may be
too shiny and not absorb enough heat..

I tried this with my 1.4W 445 SL with very little (no) luck.

I'm going to try again with a holder for the laser.

 

[Atomicrox]

Works with 1.1W as well

 

[JLSE]

Works with 1.1W as well

Good to know.. I first figured solder would melt with 500mW of 405
and that the 445's would do it much faster. Im sure it could still be done
at less than 1W of 445, but whos got time to wait :wave:

 

[Atomicrox]

Good to know.. I first figured solder would melt with 500mW of 405
and that the 445's would do it much faster. Im sure it could still be done
at less than 1W of 445, but whos got time to wait :wave:

I'll try with my 415 mW 638nm tomorrow but I think it'll just reflect everything. It has the brightest "dot" of all my lasers but ain't that good at burning stuff.

 

[JLSE]

I'll try with my 415 mW 638nm tomorrow but I think it'll just reflect everything. It has the brightest "dot" of all my lasers but ain't that good at burning stuff.

Its done with IR also, so id imagine there is a point where a red will do
it. Only one way to find out

 

[AUS]

We have been talking about building something up at work - the commercial machines use ~10-watts of IR (between 808nm and 980nm) for around one second fed into an optic fibre.

I think of trying 1-2 watts of 808nm to start with. I was thinking of using a CCD camera and video monitor or LCD PC screen for viewing with a box covered with a curtain or something so there is no danger of IR spilling into the room.

Another project I probably will never find enough time to try!

One gripe- I know this is an American forum but I wish you as a nation would learn that the "L" in solder is NOT silent!