So, what are my options here?

[leukoplast]

Ok, I just got my laser module+driver today.  It is a build from wannaburn, it's a PHR-803T with a LM317T driver.   Problem is, I really have no idea how to get this built into a host.

Mostly, due to the length of this build, I am having trouble finding a proper host from DX.   The overall length of the laser+driver is 50mm (see pic below)

The whole thing needs 7.2-9volts to work.  So single battery applications are out the window.  So the smallest package I am willing to go with would be two 10180 Li-Ion batteries.  Which is approximately 36mm long for the two batteries, and they are the same diameter as a single AAA (but 8mm shorter with two).    I have also thought about using a single AA host, and use two 14250 (half-AA) Li-Ion batteries so I can get the voltage up in the same battery space as a AA.

Problem is, I have no idea what to look for, it's so difficult to tell on DX whether or not I could make the whole package fit into a host with a heatsink properly or not.  And I need some help.   Could anybody give me some ideas?  Or show me some hosts that would do the trick?   I would like to have a somewhat small host, because I just don't want a huge clunker for this build.  

Oh, and if anybody is willing to do a complete build for me, don't hesitate to mention the possibility!   Because I am no good at this hands-on building, most of the things I make are incredibly makeshift and very sloppy.  So I am going to need all the help I can get!  

Thanks for any help, it's greatly appreciated.

-Mike

 

[spaceman_hux]

ok well i just measured up my Dx 3405 or is it 3045
anyway, if u use jayrobs heatsink it will fit depending on where the set screw is in the heatsink

and that means it should fit into a DX 4171 nicely

so there you have it some really nice hosts that will probably be compatible

good luck

 

[rangedunits]

I see its a bad job here, no plastic tube on wire/module, thats not an aixiz!!


Try fitting it in a candy box.

 

[john_lawson]

get a rkcstr driver adjustable for 15 bucks use two 10440 aaa 3.7 batteries

 

[jander6442]

get a rkcstr driver adjustable for 15 bucks use two 10440 aaa 3.7 batteries

How is he going to ground the thing to power source(wires to a clicky)? If so Using a darkhorse heatsink and module how are people mounting this thing for a tailclicky I've searched and not found any pic of how to achieve this. I've come close by using cannabalized
led mouts for other host, but there should be something of a universal fix for this rant over!

 

[jayrob]

It would work with a 4171 host and heatsink combo...

There is at least 46mm from the face of a version 1 heatsink to fit inside the pill, just above the round circuit board that will contact the batteries.

All you would have to do is measure from the front of your AixiZ module (not the front of the focusing ring, because that will be outside of the heatsink), to the bottom of the LM317. If you have 46mm, it will fit. Or, you can easily clip or cut the LM317 heatsink shorter. This will not hurt it. It is designed for up to 37 volts. And the heat from this set up will not affect it with a shorter heatsink...

One other thing, you can be sure that if wannaburn made it, it is of high quality. The only thing you would want to make sure, is that as it is fit into the heatsink, that none of the contact points, including the LM317 heatsink, are touching any metal, except for the module case.

I could open the front of the pill (where the emitter is mounted), and also solder on two leads from the round battery contact board. Then, all you would need to do is splice the wires to your driver leads. The only other tool you would need, is a 1.5mm Allen wrench for the heatsink set screw!

The 4171 version 1 heatsink would finish off like shown in the picture below. (new style 4171 host)

* For assembly, you would have the head of the host already screwed on, and your module/driver already mounted into the heatsink. Then you will just solder the leads from the host, to the leads from your driver, and use some heat shrink tubing to insulate the solder splices.

* Then carefully fit the heatsink into the head of the host, and finally, screw on the final retaining ring. The batteries would be case negative. (negative toward tail cap)

For the host/heatsink combo, plus to prep the pill and solder on two nice flexible leads... $48 plus $6 dollars shipping and handling.
Jay

Edit: We know that this set up works well for red builds using the DDL driver and I have heard of many who are using this same battery supply for a blu-ray with a rkcstr driver. Hopefully, it will be enough voltage at full charge (8.4 volts) for this driver and a blu-ray.

 

[jander6442]

It would work with a 4171 host and heatsink combo...

There is at least 46mm from the face of a version 1 heatsink to fit inside the pill, just above the round circuit board that will contact the batteries.

All you would have to do is measure from the front of your AixiZ module (not the front of the focusing ring, because that will be outside of the heatsink), to the bottom of the LM317. If you have 46mm, it will fit. Or, you can easily clip or cut the LM317 heatsink shorter. This will not hurt it. It is designed for up to 37 volts. And the heat from this set up will not affect it with a shorter heatsink...

One other thing, you can be sure that if wannaburn made it, it is of high quality. The only thing you would want to make sure, is that as it is fit into the heatsink, that none of the contact points, including the LM317 heatsink, are touching any metal, except for the module case.

I could open the front of the pill (where the emitter is mounted), and also solder on two leads from the round battery contact board. Then, all you would need to do is splice the wires to your driver leads. The only other tool you would need, is a 1.5mm Allen wrench for the heatsink set screw!

The 4171 version 1 heatsink would finish off like shown in the picture below. (new style 4171 host)

* For assembly, you would have the head of the host already screwed on, and your module/driver already mounted into the heatsink. Then you will just solder the leads from the host, to the leads from your driver, and use some heat shrink tubing to insulate the solder splices.

* Then carefully fit the heatsink into the head of the host, and finally, screw on the final retaining ring. The batteries would be case negative. (negative toward tail cap)

For the host/heatsink combo, plus to prep the pill and solder on two nice flexible leads... $48 plus $6 dollars shipping and handling.
Jay

That would work with my app , but still I guess my question is for the most part a clean way to spring the tail of the rckstar
driver. It may be that the driver board in not able to accept spring tails for instertion .

 

[jayrob]

Not quite sure I understand your question...

But with the 4171 host, there is a round contact board at the bottom of the pill. This contact board is what the positive end of the batteries contact. The negative from the tail clicky, is the entire host.

So if you have your leads from the pill done properly, all you need to do is connect them to your driver!
Jay

 

[leukoplast]

It would work with a 4171 host and heatsink combo...

There is at least 46mm from the face of a version 1 heatsink to fit inside the pill, just above the round circuit board that will contact the batteries.

All you would have to do is measure from the front of your AixiZ module (not the front of the focusing ring, because that will be outside of the heatsink), to the bottom of the LM317. If you have 46mm, it will fit. Or, you can easily clip or cut the LM317 heatsink shorter. This will not hurt it. It is designed for up to 37 volts. And the heat from this set up will not affect it with a shorter heatsink...

One other thing, you can be sure that if wannaburn made it, it is of high quality. The only thing you would want to make sure, is that as it is fit into the heatsink, that none of the contact points, including the LM317 heatsink, are touching any metal, except for the module case.

I could open the front of the pill (where the emitter is mounted), and also solder on two leads from the round battery contact board. Then, all you would need to do is splice the wires to your driver leads. The only other tool you would need, is a 1.5mm Allen wrench for the heatsink set screw!

The 4171 version 1 heatsink would finish off like shown in the picture below. (new style 4171 host)

* For assembly, you would have the head of the host already screwed on, and your module/driver already mounted into the heatsink. Then you will just solder the leads from the host, to the leads from your driver, and use some heat shrink tubing to insulate the solder splices.

* Then carefully fit the heatsink into the head of the host, and finally, screw on the final retaining ring. The batteries would be case negative. (negative toward tail cap)

For the host/heatsink combo, plus to prep the pill and solder on two nice flexible leads... $48 plus $6 dollars shipping and handling.
Jay

Hey, you got yourself a deal!!     I will get back to you after I get off work today, thanks a ton Jay!

You wouldn't happen to have any 4171's on hand would you?  Or do I need to order from DX?  

 

[jayrob]

I have one left. (new style) I am offering it to you with this host/heatsink/prep the pill combo deal. PM me for payment.

I have more hosts on order as well.

This set up works well for red builds using the DDL driver... and I have heard of many who are using this same battery supply for a blu-ray with a rkcstr driver. Hopefully, it will be enough voltage at full charge (8.4 volts) for this driver and a blu-ray...
Jay

 

[jander6442]

Not quite sure I understand your question...

But with the 4171 host, there is a round contact board at the bottom of the pill. This contact board is what the positive end of the batteries contact. The negative from the tail clicky, is the entire host.

So if you have your leads from the pill done properly, all you need to do is connect them to your driver!
Jay

Thanks Jayrob that is the what I was missing stick to the host electronics and that will save you some aggrevation from
having to engineer everything out.

 

[Mohrenberg]

just curious...how much you pay for that?

 

[jayrob]

Was that question for me?

If so, please be more specific... Pay for what?
Jay

 

[jayrob]

Another thought, is that 3 X 14250 batteries may fit that host if 2 X RCR123 is not enough voltage with that driver.

People have been using 2 X 3.6 volt batteries with a rkcstr, but you may need more for an LM317 based driver with a blu-ray build...

There is a battery called a 14250. This means 14mm X 25mm long.

2 X RCR123 is about 70mm. I would bet that there is 5mm extra space in that 4171 barrel. Because it has a brass, spring loaded contact point in the tail cap that has a lot of room to compress. I have not tried, but I would venture to guess that 3 X 14250's will fit inside the host.

I am out of those hosts right now, or I could measure.

Worst case scenario, I'm sure the tail switch can be modified. And if there is enough room in the tail cap mod, you may even fit 3 X CR2 batteries! Which is about 81mm's.

If you think there is 75mm of length, you can order the batteries form AW. If it shows 'out of stock', just message him and find out about getting them.

You may need a charger with a lower charge current than your RCR123 charger. If you do, I have one for $8 plus $3 dollars shipping. It's brand new. It's this charger:
http://www.lighthound.com/Nano-Charger_p_21-1283.html

You would just make a spacer out of a bolt to use it for a 14250...

Here's the AW site for batteries: (first check to see if you will have 75mm)
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=187951
Jay

 

[jayrob]

Hey I just took a look at one of my 'old style' 4171 hosts, which have a very similar tail cap, and there is plenty of room for an easy tail cap mod to make the host fit 3 X CR2 batteries.

Then you have your choice of primaries or rechargeable!

The black plastic retainer threads out and reveals the switch and spring. All you would need to do, is find a thin retainer clip. Perhaps a simple 'snap ring' resting against the threads would hold the switch in place and not let it come out.

Then you could just cut the spring shorter, and there is plenty of room!

I am so sure it would work, I will do the modification for you if you send me the tail cap... (Just the tail cap is all I would need. I could just measure and get another 10mm)
Jay