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FrozenGate by Avery

Sale thread/ Hosts/Heat Sinks/Focus adapters/lasers






Hi Alaskan,
momentary are great switches to point with and they dont over load the heat on the diode. Safety with rear is a plus also.
Thanks for the reply.

Rich:)
 
Lifetime17 said:
Hi Alaskan,
momentary are great switches to point with and they dont over load the heat on the diode. Safety with rear is a plus also.
Thanks for the reply.

Rich:)
Click to expand...
Bumping this beauty! but unfornately the image won't show:cryyy:
I just can't swing it Rich, but wan't everyone to know that "If" anything were to go wrong with it, Lifetime17 builds them so that they are much easily repairable compared to any other builds from Sanwu to Jetlasers.
He will also stand by 100% and shipping will be in a matter of a couple days.
This unit is what 30mm easily wide up front:eg:

If I said a bit to much Rich, just let me know and i'll delete..
 
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Hi GSS,
Your absolutely correct, I do stand behind my work 100%, being said also yes the builds are repairable, like the other oversea vendors most time need to sent back for fix.
I ship 2/3 day priority mail this host is all aluminum ,but a copper core can be pressed in if wanted .
Thank you for the bump buddy always a pleasure..

Rich:)
 
Alaskan said:
I don't burn stuff very often either, so I prefer momentary.
Click to expand...

The problem I always have with tactile switches on the side is trying to photograph the beam in a tripod. You always have to find some way of keeping the switch on without your hand on it. That is why I prefer a latching side switch. I have always hated the tactile switches on 301 and 303 lasers going back to my very first one. It has nothing to do with burning either. :na:
 
Hi Paul.
I am a fan of latching switches also even on the side, with or without a rear safety switch. The customer has a choice of either switch to their own preference. If your putting your momentary in a tripod clamp, Just line up the switch with the jaws.

Rich:)
 
paul1598419 said:
The problem I always have with tactile switches on the side is trying to photograph the beam in a tripod. You always have to find some way of keeping the switch on without your hand on it. That is why I prefer a latching side switch. I have always hated the tactile switches on 301 and 303 lasers going back to my very first one. It has nothing to do with burning either. :na:
Click to expand...

I agree, when given a choice, a latching switch is my preference also, especially on anything larger than a pen. :yh:
 
Thanks, Rich. But, I have figured out the solution a long time ago. Still, my point is valid.....at least to me. :D
 
Hi Paul,
that sounds good to me , I want to build a 575 hand held with a side button latching switch. Just need to research info on how to do it.

Rich:)
 
I know that Nexgen used a driver from a 300 mW 532nm laser pointer for his build. You need to either isolate the module or find a continuous positive driver that can put out between 1.5 and 1.8 amps for the 575nm modules. If you isolate it, a 1.8 amp X-Drive would work fine, but they do have some higher current drivers made for the 808nm pump diodes in the 532nm ones that might make the work much easier.
 
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Hi Paul,
So I can use an X Drive @ 1.8A , module isolated. How about an SXD ? Nexgen said 2A to 2.4A max with 3x lithium ions

Rich:)
 
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I was being conservative, but I think you could push it to 2 amps with no problems. Now, 2.4 amps is too far IMO. You should be able to use any buck driver like the SXD as long as you isolate the module. I spent some time testing the one I have for various currents vs output power, but I need to get back into it to measure the pump diode's specific current high and fold over. I just got mine working very well with larger heat sinks on the driver and an increase of pump current by 500 mA.
 
Hi Paul.
Thanks a lot so an SXD set to 2A , isolated the module , run it on 3 batteries , POS+ to the diode and NEG- to the tailcap . Am I correct??

Rich:)
 
As long as the module is isolated from the rest of the build you can setup the batteries any way you please. I would not go over 2 amps and since the Vf is ~1.6 volts it will likely not cause you any problems with the SXD driver. Depending on the size of the batteries you should be able to get by with just two.
 
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