Reliable source for 532nm modules?

[diachi]

If you turn the pot too far and the diode dims can you turn it back to where it was brightest again?

Maybe, with DPSS lasers the dimming can be caused by an excess of pump power, it doesn't necessarily mean that the diode is dying. Diodes also sometimes lower in power if you drive them too hard, before they die.

It's also possible that it died or was damaged and turning it down won't bring power back up.

 

[maxitoman007]

Ok thank you, does anyone know where I could get a pretty cheap but still useable lpm? It seems that it is pretty essential if I want to get the best out of my laser

 

[GSS]

laserbee, astralist, both members with low cost entry level LPM's.
Max my friend at this point you must have come across them in your studies. yes though we like to be re assured
laserbee is located in Canada

 

[maxitoman007]

laserbee, astralist, both members with low cost entry level LPM's.
Max my friend at this point you must have come across them in your studies.
laserbee is located in Cananda

Haha true, just figure I might as well get the opinion of others on the subject. Also which module would be best for my C6 host ? Are there any differences? Links:

http://m.ebay.ca/itm/231109771679?_mwBanner=1

http://m.ebay.ca/itm/231015504196?_mwBanner=1

http://m.ebay.ca/itm/330875512557?_mwBanner=1

http://m.ebay.ca/itm/330876154653?_mwBanner=1

Thanks in advance.

 

[maxitoman007]

:bumpit:

 

[GSS]

:bumpit:

I think it would depend on your fabrication skills but 1 or 2 of those you linked with the plug in wires don't have a driver, so those are out.
What are you trying to build? It looks like you want that almighty burner?
A 532 DPSS at 200mw although very bright, is a fixed focus and other lighting matches and popping balloons isn't going to be a "burner". They also don't like it cold, are unstable and "kinda" by the time they warm up their duty cycles are "kinda" reached.
It will make a great star pointer though with a great beam.
For that $60 you can get a 1W+ 445 blue direct diode true burner from DTR or such that will drop right in that C6.
Something to think about...

 

[maxitoman007]

Thanks for the advice but it's more the beam I'm going for and I've heard green is the brightest. I just want something that looks like a stereotypical laser when you turn it on, and when I think of lasers I think of green. As for burning, with my Dealextreme modules

(200mW 532nm Green Laser Module (3V 11.9mm) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme)

, you could unscrew the last segment of the module and it would act as a focusing lense that could be used for burning (it looks more like the longer module out of the two remaining

(High Quality 200mW 532nm green Laser Diode Module/Green beam/lab/stage lighting)

Although with the short modules

(High Quality 200mW LAB 532nm Green Laser module/diode suitable F standard host | eBay)

There is one picture in the bag with the extra lense on the end.

The only other differences I've noticed between them (besides the length) is that the longer one's "working current" is <360ma where as it's <400ma for the shorter module, the shorter module's description mentions the need to heatsink where as the longer's doesn't, and the description for the longer has battery as 18650 or CR123 or power adaptor, where as the shorter says AAA, they both say 3.0 - 4.3v though. The longer one is what I'd like to get (simply for the extra lense), but I'm worried that everything talked about earlier will only apply to the shorter module (pot modding, etc.).

 

[GSS]

I'm not sure DX sells even modules over 5mw to the US, not sure about Calagary?
At this point your right about set quoted mah, shouldn't matter if your going to pot play.
Do make sure you get a 3.7V+ rated module. They all should be heat sinked regardless.
The shorter module might be a more direct replacement for a pen host, and maby limited to 3V and I think the extra lens pic in the bag is just an advertising mistake. Makes no sense for it, at least to me.
If you want to focus it, I would think you would want to break the glue that holds the lens at the tip were its set to infinity focus. Your planning on turning the module barrel, but that barrel should be surrounded by your C6 heatsink or as much as possible around the initial diode barrel part.

 

[maxitoman007]

Yea I was planning on having just the last segment of the module sticking out of the C6 heatsink for easy focusing, so it seems like I should go for the longer one?

 

[GSS]

I would think that's the best?? at least for the C6 host..

 

[maxitoman007]

Ok, so I ended up deciding to order 4 Fasttech modules as well as 1 atplightingworld 200mw module. My plan is to learn to pot play with the cheapie Fasttechs and then move on to the atplightingworld module from there. I ordered these heatsinks https://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Aluminum-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B007XACV8O
As they were the smallest adhesive ones I could find. Do you think these will work?

 

[paul1598419]

Those are the same heat sinks I use. The come with a self-adhesive backing, but I shave that off and use the Arctic Silver two part glue to make a better heat connection. They worked fine for all my builds.

 

[GSS]

Ok, so I ended up deciding to order 4 Fasttech modules as well as 1 atplightingworld 200mw module. My plan is to learn to pot play with the cheapie Fasttechs and then move on to the atplightingworld module from there. I ordered these heatsinks https://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Aluminum-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B007XACV8O
As they were the smallest adhesive ones I could find. Do you think these will work?

Cool, which Fastech module's? the 5V. They will be as you see a bit shorter and the tips a little thinner than the 3V but still the same setting up.

You might want to give Pman a PM as he really taught me alot on these Fastech's..He been a little MIA lately and needs to chime in

paul, even better knowing you used the better thermal adhesive

 

[maxitoman007]

Cool, which Fastech module's? the 5V. They will be as you see a bit shorter and the tips a little thinner than the 3V but still the same setting up.

You might want to give Pman a PM as he really taught me alot on these Fastech's..He been a little MIA lately and needs to chime in

paul, even better knowing you used the better thermal adhesive

Ya I bought the 5v ones because I heard those were the only ones that work with 18650s. I've seen some of Pman's posts in other threads about those modules so I think I'll go back and look at those and maybe shoot him a pm. Any idea where thermal adhesive can be had for cheap that's decent quality ? And how do you apply it?

 

[paul1598419]

You can get the Arctic Silver thermal adhesive at: www.ebay.com/itm/120701070344. It is the best price I could find for it in this country. You mix it equal parts and use it quickly as it sets up in a couple of minutes.

 

[maxitoman007]

Well today I received my 4 Fasttech modules and begun testing them and modifying them to the proper .43 ma that Pman suggested for maximum output, long story short, now none of them are lazing and they are all showing a current draw of around 0.02 or 0.03 ma. They were all working st the start and I had them all properly set and going at 0.43 ma, but now they have all seemed to spontaneously stop working with this very low current draw. Adjusting the pot also doesn't change the current draw if that helps diagnose the problem, any help is appreciated.