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Reliable source for 532nm modules?

GSS

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A bit late on this reply but I will say these atplightingworld modules didn't disappoint me. paul has set me up with one of his older stock ones and it metered at 192mw. He set it up nicely with a sinked driver and custom soldered it to my tastes for easy use. I don't have a steady hand and soldering is a hassle for me. They do get hot as he said as expected so they do need some diode heat sinking. As he said he can't vouch for the new ones.
At $60 a pop for a new one I can't say I would order many more as with fastech's at $6
Pman has given me a number of these fastech's and iv'e bought quite a few but he has taught me all the tricks for max output durability and has seen up to 150mw. Can't tell you about IR but i'm guessing its the usual 20% average as been said.
 
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maxitoman007

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I know this is an old thread but I was wondering if you could explain how to turn up the current without breaking the module (anyway to measure so you don't go too far?). I think I'm going to buy one of these modules and I would hate to burn it out. Also could you post a link to the adhesive aluminum heat sinks you could use? In the picture, where is the component that you'd have to heatsink?
 

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maxitoman007

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It's the pictures that are in the eBay ad for the atplightingworld 200mw module that people were discussing earlier.
 

GSS

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So the $60+ ones.. Do you really want to practice setting up one for that much money.
I didn't set my Aptlighting module up, as a member here did plus I bought it from him in the first place.
Just a quick note that Apt lighting 200mw has a 1W initial pump diode compared to the usual 500mw pump modules. Sinking the driver was highly recommended. Again though I didn't set the driver, didn't trust myself to guessing.
Try Fasttech.com first for real. You can get 5 modules for $25, and you will be pleasantly surprised at some of their outputs and type in "heatsinks" on their search bar and you will find mini finned aluminum pre sticked sinks also for a couple dollars.
It won't hurt that much if you kill one for $5 a pop and its practice and fun.

If you do end up getting the Aptlight module chances are its set max anyway and wouldn't need to touch it, they most definite have the the driver sinks also.
 
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maxitoman007

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I have practiced on several cheaper modules and I think I'm ready for this better one. Do you know by any chance the current he set the module to draw when he got the 250mw result? And how small will this heatsink be? Like 5mm by 5mm ish?
 

paul1598419

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I've set several of those modules and I have found that the easiest way is to heat sink the driver output transistor, then temporarily heat sink the brass module. Use a fully charged Li-ion battery and increase the current by advancing the pot while the unit is off and measure the output with a laser power meter. I've found that I can set the power to 50% more than the stated power without blowing the pump diode. So, if you have one that is rated at 100mW, you should be able to set it for 150mW or better if you feel lucky. It's important to remember that you need to heat sink the brass module when you use it in a build as it is now being over-driven and you don't want the pump diode to get too hot. Also, it is important that you permanently heat sink the output transistor on the driver board as it will run very hot. If you don't know which is the output transistor, run it and feel the SMDs on the driver. The output will be the one that runs hot. I hope this helps you with setting up these modules. Good luck and if you have more questions, I'll try to help. :beer:
 
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maxitoman007

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Thank you very much for that info :) I still have a few questions the first being, is there anything you can without an LPM? if not are there any relatively low cost ones that I could get my hands on, I think this is one of very few projects I'd use it for so would it even be worth it? Also, do you have an estimation of how far approximately you should turn the pot? (clockwise right?), like are we talking close to 1/8th of a turn or like half a turn? If you turn it too far can you turn it back or is the diode suddenly toast? And lastly, is there anyway you could post a link to some heatsinks that would work for the output transistor? Sorry for all the questions, i just want to make sure I have a plan before I buy. I already have a c6 host with a 12mm copper heatsink that i would use and I'm thinking that this module may be the last piece of my build, after practicing on a couple of DX 200 mW modules (soldering springs, bypassing switches, etc).
 
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paul1598419

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It's difficult to remember specifics, but IIRC it is clockwise and about 1/3 rotation. I have never done one without an LPM, so I can't say how successful you will be, but if you don't rotate over 1/3 of the pot's travel distance I think you might be okay. It would be a gamble without the proper test equipment. The further you get into this hobby, the more you will want the tools and test equipment. Without it you are just guessing.
 

maxitoman007

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Ok so I think ill just go for 1/4 to 1/3 turn and hope for the best. Have you ever burned out a diode after turning it around that much?. And as far as the heatsinks go?
 

paul1598419

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I haven't burnt any out, but like I said, I have always used a laser power meter. My best guess is that if you heat sink the output transistor and the brass module and don't turn it too far you should be okay. These usually show up with the pot set at about half way, so you have about half the pot's travel distance left to work with.
 
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maxitoman007

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I haven't burnt any out, but like I said, I have always used a laser power meter. My best guess is that if you heat sink the output transistor and the brass module and don't turn it too far you should be okay. These usually show up with the pot set at about half way, so you have about half the pot's travel distance left to work with.
So you suggest turning the pot around 3/4 to of the half turn they leave you with (close to 1/3 of the full pot)?
 
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paul1598419

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No, I mean that you should be able to turn it about 1/3 of the distance that is left. If it shows up with the pot set half way, you will probably be okay if you set it a little past 3/4 of the way from all the way counter clockwise. With a power meter you could definitely set it even further, but without it you are only guessing.
 

maxitoman007

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No, I mean that you should be able to turn it about 1/3 of the distance that is left. If it shows up with the pot set half way, you will probably be okay if you set it a little past 3/4 of the way from all the way counter clockwise. With a power meter you could definitely set it even further, but without it you are only guessing.
I'm sorry I'm a bit confused, how far can the pot turn in total, the only way I seem to be able to make sense of your last comment is if the pot being completely "on" means it has done 2 complete rotations counter clockwise and that the pot being half set means that it has done one complete rotation counter clockwise and that there is still one full rotation counter clockwise remaining. Is that correct? I have done some tests on my cheaper green modules and have confirmed that when the pot is turned counter clockwise current draw increases. this conflicts with your earlier statement that said you believed it was 1/3 of a turn clockwise that was safe. Did you mean counter clockwise?
 
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GSS

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max, without all the needed equipment just hook it up to a battery source and turn the the pot to where you see its at its brightest or to the most amps your meter will register and do it quickly as its going to get hot.
The pots as you know have no stop and spin from half on and half off as far as I know on these 532's. Clockwise or counter doesn't matter at this point.
 
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maxitoman007

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If you turn the pot too far and the diode dims can you turn it back to where it was brightest again?
 




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