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FrozenGate by Avery

Reliable source for 532nm modules?

You lost me with the 80 degrees question. Are you talking temperature or rotation of the pot? I have no idea.
 





That all depends on where it is set when you get it and how much current it takes to increase the output by 50 mW. I have always used an LPM to set mine to higher powers as I don't like losing them. That varies depending on many factors, not the least is the efficiency of the pump diode. If it is set at the halfway point and you just want to guess, I'd limit it to a quarter rotation or less. But, that is no guarantee that it won't fail on you. It's still after all, just a guess.
 
If it's set to 50% how far would you turn it if you didn't have an LPM, with good odds of not dying?
 
Well, you don't have a full 360 degrees rotation, so I'd stick to about 30 degrees to be as safe as possible with a guess.
 
Ok, 30 degrees counter clockwise, got it 👍🏼. My module arrived today but I had to leave the house before I got a chance to put it in the host. I must say so far I am completely satisfied with atplightingworld as a seller. They included a black heatsink worth around $12 CAD for free as a gift. Anyways, I'll try to post about my laser adventure when I get back home.
 
So, you used your DMM to set the fast tech modules to 430 mA and all was well. When you tested the modules after adjustment were they connected directly to the battery or was your DMM still in the circuit?

My thought is that you may need better DMM leads, and/or a different DMM. Your leads and/or your DMM may be adding an ohm or two of resistance between the batteries and the modules. If you set the modules pretty close to redline with that extra resistance in the circuit, then you remove the meter and leads from the equation, the modules would be `seeing' a bit more voltage and drawing a bit more current.

Bummer!
 
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WizardG said:
So, you used your DMM to set the fast tech modules to 430 mA and all was well. When you tested the modules after adjustment were they connected directly to the battery or was your DMM still in the circuit?

My thought is that you may need better DMM leads, and/or a different DMM. Your leads and/or your DMM may be adding an ohm or two of resistance between the batteries and the modules. If you set the modules pretty close to redline with that extra resistance in the circuit, then you remove the meter and leads from the equation, the modules would be `seeing' a bit more voltage and drawing a bit more current.

Bummer!
Click to expand...

Yea that could have definitely been the problem.

So... good news, I successfully shorted the switch that was built in to the driver, and I successfully installed the module with in the C6 host with good copper heatsinking. I turned it on a couple times to check it out and it is great, the beam is visible in a well lit room and in the dark it looks amazing. My only concern is that Paul normally said that the pot came set at around half way, except mine seems to be set to less than that. The part of the pot that slides along the carbon is facing directly towards the spring, with the gap in the carbonic on the left, if the module is pointing away from you.
 
I didn't say they usually came that way. I said it could come that way and they are often set in different places on the pot to coincide with the efficiency of the pump diode and other optics in the solid state system. I also said that I always used a laser power meter to set mine and felt that was the only way of knowing what you are doing. Everything else is just a guess. I can't be responsible for setting one of these by guessing at it. I told you that to be safe as possible I'd limit the rotation to 30 degrees since you are guessing. And it should be done with the power disconnected and hopefully you will get the 50 mW or more you are looking for while not destroying your laser.
 
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maxitoman007 said:
Yea that could have definitely been the problem.

So... good news, I successfully shorted the switch that was built in to the driver, and I successfully installed the module with in the C6 host with good copper heatsinking. I turned it on a couple times to check it out and it is great, the beam is visible in a well lit room and in the dark it looks amazing. My only concern is that Paul normally said that the pot came set at around half way, except mine seems to be set to less than that. The part of the pot that slides along the carbon is facing directly towards the spring, with the gap in the carbonic on the left, if the module is pointing away from you.
Click to expand...
max, then maby you should just leave it be as it seems your way happy with it:) or at least till you get some more experience on these. Trying to squeeze out a few extra 10mw or so just isn't worth it in my opinion:undecided:
My 200mw maxes out at only 192mw and this is with Paul setting it up:)
 
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Ok so I think I might just leave it and be satisfied. Now I'm having another problem. When I received the module, I could tell that something was dirty because the laser had a lot of splash, so after doing some research and testing I determined that all the dirt was on the collimating lens, because when I turn the grass housing for that lense, all the splash would rotate as well. Anyways, I tried cleaning the outside with son isopropyl and a q-tip, and it got slightly better, however there was still a large blotch on one side of the point when looking at it on a wall. I looked at the lense and I could see a white spec on the lense, but it was on the inside. So I took the lense off by unscrewing the whole segment of the module that has the collimating lense and attempted to clean it with isopropyl on the inside as well. Well the q-tip was I tight fit into the back of the module to get to the lens and I ended up pushing the glass lens out of its little screwable lense holder (inside the removed module segment). Using I q tip I managed to pop the lense back in and continued to clean it. In doing so, I also managed to loosen the lense holder inside the removed segment of the module, which move the culminating lense and effected the focus of the laser. Now when I reassemble my module, the laser has a lot of splatter and the dot is larger than it was. So my questions are:

-what is the best way to clean the lense with household items, am I doing the right thing?

-how do I re secure the lense in the lense holder?

- does it matter which way the lense goes back in?

- how can I find the optimal place to reset the collimating lens holder inside the removed segment of the laser once the lens is re secured(focus to infinity?)?

-how do I secure the lense holder in the removed segment of the laser module once I find the optimal setting?

Thanks again for all of your guys' help, it is much appreciated.
 
I'm not even sure if the lenses are glass? at least I don't think the collimating one is but could be on this 200mw unit which did you end up popping that one off?
Pray you line up that "collimate" with the old glue marks and re glue and just yes I would think the lens does matter which side goes back in.
If you ever get it to focus I think the barrel threads are tight enough to hold focus and the popped back in lens might hold??:cryyy:
 
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Yea when I popped the lens back in (200mw module, think it has glass lenses because the collimating lenses sold by the same seller on eBay are glass) it looked the same just with more splash so I think it is set right again just dirty (good way to clean it? Should I unscrew the lense, pop the lense out, or try to clean it while installed?) however it is quite easy to pop it back out if pressure is applied (way to glue it in?). Ya I'm hoping the threads of the barrel will be tight enough to hold the lens but if not is there any kind of thread locking stuff you could use? And also is there any special way to focus the laser to infinity by threading in or backing out the lens, instead of just looking for when the dot is smallest? Because it turned while I was cleaning it and now it's out of focus when I re assemble the barrel.

Thanks
 
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If you want, I could take a look at it for you. I have another module that failed and has a good lens assy. in it. I could also set it up for you at the highest safe power as long as there are no other problems with it. It is unfortunate that you tried to clean it without asking best practice first. As long as you pay shipping both ways, I'll see what I can do for you. Send me a PM if this is acceptable to you. I always try to help members here and I hate to see you lose $60.00 for not looking before you jumped. I don't need the host you put it in, just the module. :beer:

Edit: I was mistaken. I thought that module was bad, but I just pulled it out and tested it and it is fine. I guess the best I can offer is to set that module up for you and send it to you. I can let you have it for the same price I did for GSS. That was $35.00.
 
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:):)Good stuff paul:beer:
Max you won't regret it and take care of it:)
 
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