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FrozenGate by Avery

Problems with C6 JAD kit + dtr diode

gif said:
thats true, BUT he is using 3 element glass lens, which clips the beam and it is near circular (not perfect) dot and gives thin beam. So i think he might need to focus better. distance could also be the fact here (maybe he is shinning far away, in which case beam will get bigger, then near by) :beer:

gif
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I think that it doesn't have to do with my focusing, I have it so that it converges ~20 feet away, which is pretty good, but when it comes out of the aperture/lens, it's already about 5mm thick.

It's probably that I'm comparing it to my green laser, which has a very very thin beam.
 





Mohrenberg said:
They are hand tightened, should unscrew fine
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Yeah I got it off. Thanks so much! It works amazingly well. Gets hot surprisingly fast, but I guess that's to be expected at 1800mA.

I wanna get a LPM next to see what it's actually outputting. When I have it converging at a point, it lights match literally instantly, but it doesn't seem quite as powerful as some videos I've seen before. (Like ones where it can cut through a match). Not to say I'm disappointed, I love this laser and think its the coolest thing ever, but I'm just curious.

I remember reading the ultrafire batteries are not very good- should I switch to AW batteries?
 
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GAtkins said:
If you want to be on the bleeding edge, sure, why not.

Glenn
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The reason I say this is because my batteries are operating at 880mA each. Meaning 1760 total, probably quite a bit less. But the driver draws 1800mA. Shouldn't I then use batteries which total to > 1800mA?

I'm sorry, this type of electronics is not my strongest subject, but I'm trying to learn.
 
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As i understand it, and I could be wrong because I'm still a noob myself, is that the mA rating on the batteries has to do with their capacity. Therefore, it is not necessary to match them to the current draw of your device. The two are not directly related AFAIK.

Anybody else?

Glenn

yathern2 said:
The reason I say this is because my batteries are operating at 880mA each. Meaning 1660 total, probably a bit less. But the driver draws 1800mA. Shouldn't I then use batteries which total to > 1800mA?

I'm sorry, this type of electronics is not my strongest subject, but I'm trying to learn.
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GAtkins said:
As i understand it, and I could be wrong because I'm still a noob myself, is that the mA rating on the batteries has to do with their capacity. Therefore, it is not necessary to match them to the current draw of your device. The two are not directly related AFAIK.

Anybody else?

Glenn
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Ahh. That makes more sense. I remember reading that devices tend to take the current they need, but the voltage that's given. Something to that extent.

Anyways, does anyone have any sort of benchmark at which my laser should be hitting? Like, I can burn through electrical tape when focused within a second. But I have been unable to light a match from 10 feet away, well focused.

I'm really sorry that I keep asking stupid questions like this, it probably sounds like I'm not impressed, or ungrateful with my laser, which is completely not the case. After only having a 100mW green for the past 4 or so years, this is an amazing step forward, but now I've become addicted, and want as much power as I can get my hands on.

EDIT: Also, building a laser, despite this barely being a build, is immensely satisfying.
 
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It is possible to correct the beam into a dot but it would require significant external optics next since the bats are in series here voltage increases not there capacity. Using the aixiz 3 element is not recommended for a 1.8 amp build because most of that 30% energy is being turned into heat but some gets reflected back into diode shortening its life and the final note that c6 heat sink is horrible for dealing with the 5-7 joules being pumped into it every second so the duty cycle will have to quite short the heat sink quite simply does not have the mass to deal with all that excess heat.
 
Batteries are rated in mAH meaning your 880maH cells can supply 880mA for 1h....
miiamps x hour

Problem with all the ***fire cells are mny many of them are repackaged from salvaged cells and passed off as the real thing. They're really hit and miss. With AW you know exactly what you get
 
cilegray said:
Batteries are rated in mAH meaning your 880maH cells can supply 880mA for 1h....
miiamps x hour
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Ah. Now that makes sense.

cilegray said:
Problem with all the ***fire cells are mny many of them are repackaged from salvaged cells and passed off as the real thing. They're really hit and miss. With AW you know exactly what you get
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Okay I see. I don't think new batteries will make a massive difference, so I'll wait a bit before get some.




GAtkins said:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f65/estimating-power-output-blue-laser-72210.html

I have three DTR 445nm's in Moh's kits, all driven at 1.62A. With a G2 lens, one LPM'd at 1.95W, one at 1.89W, and one at 2.03W.

With regular Axiz glass most will put out about 30% less on average from what I can tell.

Glenn
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mattco2 said:
Using the aixiz 3 element is not recommended for a 1.8 amp build because most of that 30% energy is being turned into heat but some gets reflected back into diode shortening its life.
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Ah Okay. Never knew it was that much. Would that also contribute to a hotter diode/heatsink? If I was to get a new lens, I could simply screw it in to the Aixiz module right? And G1 or G2 is the best for this right?

The only problem I have is the G1/G2 make the beam look much more like a line, but I guess if that significantly increases the life and strength of my laser it's worth it.
 
It will screw right into the Aixiz module just like your lens now. I only have a G2, so I don't know about the G1.

Glenn
 
yathern2 said:
Ah Okay. Never knew it was that much. Would that also contribute to a hotter diode/heatsink? If I was to get a new lens, I could simply screw it in to the Aixiz module right? And G1 or G2 is the best for this right?
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It depends on which supplier you get your lens from most of the time. I think Jayrobs 405 G1 lens puts out the most output. Yes, you can just screw the lens on to your Aixiz module.

yathern2 said:
The only problem I have is the G1/G2 make the beam look much more like a line, but I guess if that significantly increases the life and strength of my laser it's worth it.
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The output will definitely increase with the G1/G2, but the divergence will be worse.
 
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