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FrozenGate by Avery

Presale: The Ben Boost

Seriously, is that what you are doing? Can you break them, or should I cut them with a Dremel?
 





naa they break apart if you got round ones you may have to dremmel the edges Werent all yours cut out mostly?

God I Hope that's not Bad aDvice again!!!!!
 
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break them right off.

some will be left with little tabs, you can cut them with scissors or twist them off with pliers.

you get a cleaner break if you go back and forth like kix said though. pull until you hear crackling, then go the other way.

those panels were a giant panel of 100, and i broke it in half to fit into the envelope. I didn't use any tools, just snapped it like a twig.

you'll be scared you'll damage the boards the first few times, but don't worry it will break off where those tiny holes are scored into the tabs.
 
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Kizdawg said:
I thaught you were takin a break Moh!
Click to expand...

from boost drives, yeah.

I actually sat down and assembled 50 of these boost drivers yesterday without any problems (other than it took me all day)

I still don't plan to be the main supplier of these. I have them for sale, but i raised the price. I'll be more of the guy you have to go to when you're in a pinch for them.
 
Mohrenberg said:
break them right off.

some will be left with little tabs, you can cut them with scissors or twist them off with pliers.

you get a cleaner break if you go back and forth like kix said though. pull until you hear crackling, then go the other way.

those panels were a giant panel of 100, and i broke it in half to fit into the envelope. I didn't use any tools, just snapped it like a twig.

you'll be scared you'll damage the boards the first few times, but don't worry it will break off where those tiny holes are scored into the tabs.
Click to expand...

Ok, cool. Thanks.
 
Yah pressing them into a tight pill and forsefully removeing them will damage them too... If you have a dremmel brush the edges down to make it fit the pill first at leist brush off the (mold) marks...make sure you push your components into the center a bit but watch for the + post.
 
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Kizdawg said:
Yah pressing them into a tight pill and forsefully removeing them will damage them too... If you have a dremmel brush the edges down to make it fit the pill first at leist brush off the (mold) marks...make sure you push your components into the center a bit but watch for the + post.
Click to expand...

You'd be surprised what they can take. I ABUSED one of Moh's round linear drivers in my http://laserpointerforums.com/f50/my-first-red-build-bolly-bl-8006-a-73498.html

It fired right up when I was done. I was half sure I had destroyed the board getting it out of the old pill and manhandling it into a new, smaller pill.

Either the boards are tough, or Moh builds them really tough or both!

Mohrenberg said:
I still don't plan to be the main supplier of these. I have them for sale, but i raised the price. I'll be more of the guy you have to go to when you're in a pinch for them.
Click to expand...

Did you order any of the round boards, or just the square ones?

How hard is it to order from dorkbot using the files in the DIY thread?

I'd be willing to order some if I can figger it out.
 
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rhd said:
Ryan,

For the love of god, buy your LM3410s from FutureElectronics instead of Digikey. $1.50 instead of $3.00 is a no brainer.
Click to expand...

Hey, over-engineering question here.

Would this LM3410 work LM3410XQMF/NOPB - NATIONAL SEMICONDUCTOR - IC, LED DRVR, 5-SOT-23 | Newark and would there be any advantage to using "Q" designated parts in laser builds.

I ASSUME the "Q" designation means that these are certified for use in automotive products and are more robust?

I wouldn't mind paying a price premium for a small number of builds if it would give me an IC with better heat resistance and other reliability enhancements.

Thanks and please don't beat me over the head with your post if I am exasperating you. :D
 
It's not more 'robust'.

It has tighter tolerances, probably just for certifications and whatnot that are necessary for the automotive industry.
 
I found this...

http://cds.linear.com/docs/Quality/Automotive reliability test.pdf

AEC-Q100 is a set of reliability stress tests defined by the Automotive Electronics Council for the purpose of qualifying integrated circuits (ICs) for automotive applications. Linear qualifies products based on AEC-Q100 guidelines and guarantees that all automotive products exceed current AEC- Q100 requirements by conducting additional device and package level stress tests.

These additional tests may include, but are not limited to the following: Power cycling, liquid-to-liquid thermal shock, instant solder shock, and 100% oxide stress tests. These unique and rigorous tests validate the robustness of Linear's products prior to production release.

Grade 0 -40°C +150°C
Grade 1 -40°C +125°C
Grade 2 -40°C +105°C
Grade 3 -40°C +85°C
 
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mine arrived, but its not working properly? it was fine, but all of a sudden its output is extremely low.... the battery is fully charged, but i cant even see the beam! it wont even burn or light a match anymore.. whats going on? it was 1256mA don't know what it is now... is there anyway of checking the current of the driver without making a load circuit?
 
Never power the driver on without a diode or a testload. The driver will raise the voltage to met the current set and will kill itself in the process if nothing is connected.
 
Did you heatsink the driver ? At 1256mA the driver will get HOT !
 
nope, it wasnt heatsinked at that time. but i never ran it for more than 30 seconds at one time... always switched it off and let it cool down.
 
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