Tmack
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Hosts ready for a module " I see it lol. Oops
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FrozenGate by Avery
"Pman special"
- Thread starter Pman
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Pman
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They are nothing but empty hosts at this point as there's no money to spend right now.
The coupling is just an end cut from either the tail cap switch or the light portion as they are both the same length threaded pieces. Not hard to do nice and even being very careful with a 24 tooth count haksaw blade. If you don't take your time, you will end up slipping and scoring the coupling and it certainly won't look as nice.
All you need to make one is 2 of the flashlights which would give you 2 chances to cut the coupling correctly without scoring it. If you bought 3 of them, you would have another rubber gip piece to slide on anywhere you want including over the coupling.
Then you would still have a flashlight you can use too plus 3 AA alkaline batteries. The lights may only be 19 lumens but it is the right amount of light when working close up on things. You can always put it in your car or bathroom or whatever. I've got a flashlight in basically every room of the house and all my vehicles. Never know when it will come in handy.
If you look at the third one in you can see that I had a piece of the blue rubber grip that I cut to size to fit over the coupling.
Give me a sec and I'll take a pic of a couple of the left over pieces (still saving them) that I had cut to show you what I mean.
I also run the coupling over a file to smooth out the cut side better.
I've still got 18 silver light heads from the units I built. Again, this is why you save all the stuff you take apart.
These would certainly work well with a simple module and 14500 (especially with a 5V 532nm from Fasttech using the same general procedure I've outlined with other stuff). The reason why I prefer the 5V ones it they tend to be more likely to put out over 100mw and can more readily/safely handle the ectra voltage of the 10440 although I've never had an issue with the 3V ones. Out of the 2, I would buy the 5V ones as they run the same as the 3V ones with lower voltage.
The coupling is just an end cut from either the tail cap switch or the light portion as they are both the same length threaded pieces. Not hard to do nice and even being very careful with a 24 tooth count haksaw blade. If you don't take your time, you will end up slipping and scoring the coupling and it certainly won't look as nice.
All you need to make one is 2 of the flashlights which would give you 2 chances to cut the coupling correctly without scoring it. If you bought 3 of them, you would have another rubber gip piece to slide on anywhere you want including over the coupling.
Then you would still have a flashlight you can use too plus 3 AA alkaline batteries. The lights may only be 19 lumens but it is the right amount of light when working close up on things. You can always put it in your car or bathroom or whatever. I've got a flashlight in basically every room of the house and all my vehicles. Never know when it will come in handy.
If you look at the third one in you can see that I had a piece of the blue rubber grip that I cut to size to fit over the coupling.
Give me a sec and I'll take a pic of a couple of the left over pieces (still saving them) that I had cut to show you what I mean.
I also run the coupling over a file to smooth out the cut side better.
I've still got 18 silver light heads from the units I built. Again, this is why you save all the stuff you take apart.
These would certainly work well with a simple module and 14500 (especially with a 5V 532nm from Fasttech using the same general procedure I've outlined with other stuff). The reason why I prefer the 5V ones it they tend to be more likely to put out over 100mw and can more readily/safely handle the ectra voltage of the 10440 although I've never had an issue with the 3V ones. Out of the 2, I would buy the 5V ones as they run the same as the 3V ones with lower voltage.
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Antharak
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Good to see your up and about Pman. Nice work on the couplings, do you use a vice?
Pman
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No, I did this all by hand and took my time so there wasn't a chance of any marks on anything although I wouldn't actually matter if you planned on chucking the rest of the head or switch part out. Never know when you will need them for something else though so I recommend acting as if you wanted no scratches on anything.
I slowly rotate the piece while gently cutting it so it's even all the way around. Takes more time but works out well.
If I cut them with a dremel, it would probably turn out way uneven and a general mess.
On a side note, the mail just came and I received the 3 color set of the pens that were a $1 cheaper than the other ones that we were buying from that ebay vendor and unfortunately they look exactly like the other ones. Haven't measured them yet but I will momentarily.
I slowly rotate the piece while gently cutting it so it's even all the way around. Takes more time but works out well.
If I cut them with a dremel, it would probably turn out way uneven and a general mess.
On a side note, the mail just came and I received the 3 color set of the pens that were a $1 cheaper than the other ones that we were buying from that ebay vendor and unfortunately they look exactly like the other ones. Haven't measured them yet but I will momentarily.
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Antharak
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I have to get one of those saws. Fingers are crossed for the outcome of your testing.
Pman
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Well, like I said, they are the wrong units for turning them into focusable pens. The 532nm was a very steady 57mw (unusual that it was very steady), the 405nm was 64mw and the 650nm is a bit of a mystery at the moment because it initially looked like it was going to hit over a 100mw (they do almost every time) but then it suddenly dropped off to no more than 1mw and it's not really a dot anymore. Going to dissect it as I could at least save the host stuff.
So, we've pretty much figured out that this isn't the vendor to buy from anymore. His stuff is no longer what we are looking for and the outputs aren't consistent as the ones he used to sell
Oh well, someone sells the right ones somewhere. We'll figure it out. At least they were only about $4 each and the 405 can be used for GITD and 532nm for stars or as a giveaway plus I'll have an empty host for a better module.
As far as one of those saws goes, I actually just used it to make the initial mark/groove all the way around and then held the 24 tooth blade just with my hand and gently worked my way around it evenly til it broke free and then ran it back and forth over a file just to smooth things out. I think it gave me better control and feel for what I was doing. If you force the issue, it will be very easy to slip and nick the piece.
Already took apart the 650nm unit. Will say that the plastic top caps on these are really pretty crappy and you have to be extra careful protecting them when removing as they are very easy to scratch although they sure are easy to remove.
So, we've pretty much figured out that this isn't the vendor to buy from anymore. His stuff is no longer what we are looking for and the outputs aren't consistent as the ones he used to sell
Oh well, someone sells the right ones somewhere. We'll figure it out. At least they were only about $4 each and the 405 can be used for GITD and 532nm for stars or as a giveaway plus I'll have an empty host for a better module.
As far as one of those saws goes, I actually just used it to make the initial mark/groove all the way around and then held the 24 tooth blade just with my hand and gently worked my way around it evenly til it broke free and then ran it back and forth over a file just to smooth things out. I think it gave me better control and feel for what I was doing. If you force the issue, it will be very easy to slip and nick the piece.
Already took apart the 650nm unit. Will say that the plastic top caps on these are really pretty crappy and you have to be extra careful protecting them when removing as they are very easy to scratch although they sure are easy to remove.
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Antharak
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Did you test the 650 with a 10440 or AAA batteries? I'm ordering the ones from Amazon at the end of the month and will post as soon as I get them.
Pman
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Didn't matter as I took out the module and tested it with my variable DC power supply. Basically I have a 1mw 650nm unit to go into my parts box.
On the upside, I just checked and Fasttech had granted me the code for what my points had added up to and I just ordered 5 5V 532nm modules for free
Too bad they seem to be having some cutoms issues on the chinese side of things.
Talked to my boss who adamantly feels that because I'm at such a high risk for getting sick at work He thinks I really need to take at least 2-3 weeks off still. I know he is right but my bank account doesn't like it at all. Going to end up spending all my saving s between no income and medical bills. I am officially excused from work by my doctor until the 28thbut it looks like to do the right thing I won't work for a tleast 1 more week past that. It's amazing how easily I can always find things that need to get done. Never ending projects and stuff to mess with. Just too bad I don't have the $ to support some of the things I would really like to do. Oh well, life is always simpler the less you have.
On yet another plus side though I didn't pay much for my new digital soldering station due to a build up of discover card points. It's a very highly regarded unit and gets my highest recomendation. It's a HAKO FX-888D and has fantastic reviews (check it out yourself). It seems that when I was researching them Wellers quality has dropped as I was originally looking at one of theirs. This one blew theirs away.
HAve used up all points and stuff on everything I can think of so that's that.
I'll post a pic of all the flashlights I have that I could potentially use as hosts if I don't want to use them as lights anymore.
Also have an Inova X type light that I am having one heck of a time getting apart. The top is press fit in and my tricks to pulling the head have not worked yet. Going to have to try a heat gun again.
On the upside, I just checked and Fasttech had granted me the code for what my points had added up to and I just ordered 5 5V 532nm modules for free
Too bad they seem to be having some cutoms issues on the chinese side of things.Talked to my boss who adamantly feels that because I'm at such a high risk for getting sick at work He thinks I really need to take at least 2-3 weeks off still. I know he is right but my bank account doesn't like it at all. Going to end up spending all my saving s between no income and medical bills. I am officially excused from work by my doctor until the 28thbut it looks like to do the right thing I won't work for a tleast 1 more week past that. It's amazing how easily I can always find things that need to get done. Never ending projects and stuff to mess with. Just too bad I don't have the $ to support some of the things I would really like to do. Oh well, life is always simpler the less you have.
On yet another plus side though I didn't pay much for my new digital soldering station due to a build up of discover card points. It's a very highly regarded unit and gets my highest recomendation. It's a HAKO FX-888D and has fantastic reviews (check it out yourself). It seems that when I was researching them Wellers quality has dropped as I was originally looking at one of theirs. This one blew theirs away.
HAve used up all points and stuff on everything I can think of so that's that.
I'll post a pic of all the flashlights I have that I could potentially use as hosts if I don't want to use them as lights anymore.
Also have an Inova X type light that I am having one heck of a time getting apart. The top is press fit in and my tricks to pulling the head have not worked yet. Going to have to try a heat gun again.
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Pman
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I'm not quite sure why a lot of you are having such trouble removing the modules without ruining it and or the host. You have to pay attention to the button and get it out first before forcing anything too far or it can get caught up on the board or spring and mess things up. So, you need to pay attention and get that button out as soon as you have the module out of the way enough.
You can push pretty hard down over the spring onto the board with the tube from a cheap pen (same thing I show using a piece of one to make the bridge between the lens and cap). I haven't messed one up yet using this method. It may take quite a bit of pressure to push out the module but sometimes it slides out easy. It's generally harder to slide it back in using the same method depending upon the black plastic spacer piece that will likely be stuck against the inside wall of the host.
What I do to make the module stay in without moving once you get it back in is a bit of epoxy on the board edges after it is in place and lined up and also on the edge of the front where the lens side is. Of course you need to be careful not to get anything on the lens and lens threads depending upon if you are going to try to make it a focusable unit or not.
You should be doing all of this with the back half of the pen host unscrewed as you don't want to be putting stress on the threaded portion where they come together or the pocket clip may no longer align with the botton once it's screwed back together.
Hope this helps anyone having some grief with the process. PATIENCE is a good thing while messing with this stuff. Always keep in mind that regardless of the units output, you want to save everything to potentially use in other builds. I've put plenty of the better Fasttech modules in regular pen hosts to make a much better 532nm unit. IF I measure the same output from a cheap pen vs, one I stuck a Fasttech module in the Fasttech will be MUCH brighter as the IR is low. The issue with sticking a Fasttech module in is that it has much better heat sinking so it is a lot longer and you either need to use a single 10440 or lengthen the pen to fit a couple Alkalines. 10440's are inexpensive plus they are rechargeable so no big deal. These work great for this aplication:
http://www.fasttech.com/products/142...ble-li-ion-bat
On a side note, my Inova light head finally popped out about 1/4" and I am on phase 2 refreezing again to get it to pop more. I really like the look of the Inova lights. They just have a classy look/feel to them with a minimalist aproach.
Yeah for me!!! Finally got the Inova head to pop out so now have another really nice host. Haven't seen an Inova laser here but then again I haven't searched yet either.
You can push pretty hard down over the spring onto the board with the tube from a cheap pen (same thing I show using a piece of one to make the bridge between the lens and cap). I haven't messed one up yet using this method. It may take quite a bit of pressure to push out the module but sometimes it slides out easy. It's generally harder to slide it back in using the same method depending upon the black plastic spacer piece that will likely be stuck against the inside wall of the host.
What I do to make the module stay in without moving once you get it back in is a bit of epoxy on the board edges after it is in place and lined up and also on the edge of the front where the lens side is. Of course you need to be careful not to get anything on the lens and lens threads depending upon if you are going to try to make it a focusable unit or not.
You should be doing all of this with the back half of the pen host unscrewed as you don't want to be putting stress on the threaded portion where they come together or the pocket clip may no longer align with the botton once it's screwed back together.
Hope this helps anyone having some grief with the process. PATIENCE is a good thing while messing with this stuff. Always keep in mind that regardless of the units output, you want to save everything to potentially use in other builds. I've put plenty of the better Fasttech modules in regular pen hosts to make a much better 532nm unit. IF I measure the same output from a cheap pen vs, one I stuck a Fasttech module in the Fasttech will be MUCH brighter as the IR is low. The issue with sticking a Fasttech module in is that it has much better heat sinking so it is a lot longer and you either need to use a single 10440 or lengthen the pen to fit a couple Alkalines. 10440's are inexpensive plus they are rechargeable so no big deal. These work great for this aplication:
http://www.fasttech.com/products/142...ble-li-ion-bat
On a side note, my Inova light head finally popped out about 1/4" and I am on phase 2 refreezing again to get it to pop more. I really like the look of the Inova lights. They just have a classy look/feel to them with a minimalist aproach.
Yeah for me!!! Finally got the Inova head to pop out so now have another really nice host. Haven't seen an Inova laser here but then again I haven't searched yet either.
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Hey guys, for all of you who may not want a green module in this host, but maybe a 12mm module sort of direct diode system, i do offer a host kit for these, with an aluminum heatsink. My only concern is that i think the bezel of the B68 model is tighter than the flashlights i originally bought for my kits, so either i will need to re-size my heatsinks (which i probably won't do because then the heatsink would get a bit too thin for my liking), or you can just sand the bezel of the B68 model until the heatsink fits! Check it out in my sig!
I can also offer these with the extension tubes that allow 2 x AA usage.
EVEN BETTER, combine this with Pman's o-rings and such to make a totally kick ass laser!
PICS:
I currently do not have heatsinks in stock but i could get them quickly if a decent ammount are requested!
THANKS GUYS
PS: thanks pman for letting me advertise on your thread!
You are the man!
BTW: Pman, i am about a week away from completing a laser with your parts from your "Pman Special" so i can show the world how awesome your stuff iS!
I can also offer these with the extension tubes that allow 2 x AA usage.
EVEN BETTER, combine this with Pman's o-rings and such to make a totally kick ass laser!
PICS:
I currently do not have heatsinks in stock but i could get them quickly if a decent ammount are requested!
THANKS GUYS
PS: thanks pman for letting me advertise on your thread!
You are the man!
BTW: Pman, i am about a week away from completing a laser with your parts from your "Pman Special" so i can show the world how awesome your stuff iS!
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Pman
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I asked KRNAZNBOY to post here as it gives more options for our builds. That looks like a pretty serious heat sink.
By the way, Fasttech sells a green version of the B68 called the SK68. I own one and took the single AAA pen entire module assembly out and put it in one fro a nice green host and green laser Costs a couple bucks more but you do get a nice little pouch.
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10002649/1197101-sipik-sk68-3w-cree-xr-e-q3-180lm-1-mode-white-zoom
If you look up SK68 you will find ones in black, silver, grey, red, blue and green. It's the same thing as the B68 except it has a different LED installed. Can't seem to find them as cheap as the B68 ones and none of them (other than the black) would look as good with the extension added. Nice units for a small build as is though.
Found a couple pics showing the one I made. Looks like I may have overdone the O-ring thing. Pic is with the star cap on. If anyone wants to see a couple better pics of the unit I can take them and post.
Does everyone understand the 3V vs. 5V Fasttech module thing? I can't seem to explain it so everyone understands. The difference between the 2 modules is the length. The 5V ones are slightly longer (specs are on the Fasttech site). You need to ignore the 5V thing in terms of thinking it needs 5V to operate. The 5V module only needs the same voltage as any 3V module does for full output. It can handle 5V input though without any issues. Feeding it extra voltage gives basically no significant increase in output. It allows a higher voltage in but doesn't actually use it. I like the 5V version better as it is inherently less likely to have an issue running a 4.2V battery. I've also seen that it is more likely to adjust (with the pot) to a greater output than the 3V version from my messing with them. I always set the voltage to 3.2V with my variable DC power supply and then adjust the pots to .43amps with a ceramic screwdriver (buy all 8 of them from Fasttech) as soon as I get them and then test output. Has to be at least a third of them hit over 100mw peak and I have a few that were over 140mw.
You really need to use a non conductive screwdriver when messing with the pot or you risk shorting it out as I have seen many people do. If you don't then kill power to the module and tweak it and then turn power back on to see where you are at with the amps. Always let the module cool before turning it back on so you can see the truth of what you are dealing with.
This is one of the ceramic screwdrivers. 8 total in the set but you have to buy them individually. They are a must have in my book.
http://www.fasttech.com/category/2205/hardware-tools/?ceramic
By the way, Fasttech sells a green version of the B68 called the SK68. I own one and took the single AAA pen entire module assembly out and put it in one fro a nice green host and green laser
Costs a couple bucks more but you do get a nice little pouch.http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10002649/1197101-sipik-sk68-3w-cree-xr-e-q3-180lm-1-mode-white-zoom
If you look up SK68 you will find ones in black, silver, grey, red, blue and green. It's the same thing as the B68 except it has a different LED installed. Can't seem to find them as cheap as the B68 ones and none of them (other than the black) would look as good with the extension added. Nice units for a small build as is though.
Found a couple pics showing the one I made. Looks like I may have overdone the O-ring thing. Pic is with the star cap on. If anyone wants to see a couple better pics of the unit I can take them and post.
Does everyone understand the 3V vs. 5V Fasttech module thing? I can't seem to explain it so everyone understands. The difference between the 2 modules is the length. The 5V ones are slightly longer (specs are on the Fasttech site). You need to ignore the 5V thing in terms of thinking it needs 5V to operate. The 5V module only needs the same voltage as any 3V module does for full output. It can handle 5V input though without any issues. Feeding it extra voltage gives basically no significant increase in output. It allows a higher voltage in but doesn't actually use it. I like the 5V version better as it is inherently less likely to have an issue running a 4.2V battery. I've also seen that it is more likely to adjust (with the pot) to a greater output than the 3V version from my messing with them. I always set the voltage to 3.2V with my variable DC power supply and then adjust the pots to .43amps with a ceramic screwdriver (buy all 8 of them from Fasttech) as soon as I get them and then test output. Has to be at least a third of them hit over 100mw peak and I have a few that were over 140mw.
You really need to use a non conductive screwdriver when messing with the pot or you risk shorting it out as I have seen many people do. If you don't then kill power to the module and tweak it and then turn power back on to see where you are at with the amps. Always let the module cool before turning it back on so you can see the truth of what you are dealing with.
This is one of the ceramic screwdrivers. 8 total in the set but you have to buy them individually. They are a must have in my book.
http://www.fasttech.com/category/2205/hardware-tools/?ceramic
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Pman
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If you are interested in my other tutorial concerning the focusable pens look at my last post on that link Yup, I found the source for the correct units
Yup, I found the source for the correct unitsthanks for the info Pman, I was wondering about the 3v vs 5v modules and you just made it clear.
kinda really hurtin for money right now, if I could order just one of the screwdrivers which size would you suggest? I know they aren't expensive but my other bills are especially being off work for a year now after knee surgery.
kinda really hurtin for money right now, if I could order just one of the screwdrivers which size would you suggest? I know they aren't expensive but my other bills are especially being off work for a year now after knee surgery.
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FIRST PMAN SPECIAL HEATSINK VERSION LASER COMPLETED (by KRNAZNBOY)
Used a M140 with a buck driver @ 1.6 amps in my SK68 heatsink made for this host! (G2 lens)
Have yet to LPM the laser.
Sexy, ill let the pics do the talking! (shitty camera phone, better pics later)
CLICK ON THE IMAGES TO ENLARGE!
Thanks Pman!
-Matt
Used a M140 with a buck driver @ 1.6 amps in my SK68 heatsink made for this host! (G2 lens)
Have yet to LPM the laser.
Sexy, ill let the pics do the talking! (shitty camera phone, better pics later)
CLICK ON THE IMAGES TO ENLARGE!
Thanks Pman!
-Matt
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Javalin
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Very nice. +rep and tonight's Blue Moon goes to you! :beer:
/////////Break////////////
Pman,
I got my 5V fasttech modules in finally but I have a couple questions,
1) What is the middle section that unscrews, at first I thought it was the crystal set but when you remove this section the crystal set is actually behind it. then the end section is obviously the lens... Is it beam corrective optics :thinking:
2) Have you turned these down before to measure the least power output you could achieve before it wouldn't lase? I've got a cheap power meter coming, but I'm not even sure it will work, I got it for $70 so we'll see...
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Tmack
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It better work jav. Did the seller say it was functional?
Found some great lexan discs on eBay. 5" for two bucks a piece.
Found some great lexan discs on eBay. 5" for two bucks a piece.