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PLT5 510 pen build

Pman

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Since Jordan had added a new diode that was rated at 510nm I figured it was time to put one together and compare to a freak 515nm diode I had received from the long suffering Eitan GB that has a definite blue tint to it.

Parts include the Home Depot 2 AAA pen light that I and a couple others have used before:


I "stole" this contact board which used to be a driver some some small light I had:




Cut down back half from a standard 12mm module:


Contact board sitting on top of the back half:


Added a dab of solder to slightly build up the center. The - of a battery is going to be touching it:


You can see the other side where the wires will be attached for the - and + wires of the driver and how it will sit:


Some pics showing I had soldered the Blitzlinear driver (continuous positive) from Survival lasers to the pressed in diode and then added a copper sink to the back side of it making sure it will fit inside the module back half without touching:










Wired to the contact board. I had to remove one small piece of run on the contact board as it was carrying the center - and you don't want it to short to the module. I should mention that I did not bother isolating the module from the host but instead wired it up case positive as the driver is continuous positive and the diode is case positive. This diode is also an oddball as it is wired opposite to the norm. Take a look at Jordans page on it for the pinout:




I realized that the batteries (2) 10440 would compress the switch spring too hard if I didn't clip part of the contact spring so that's what I did:




To help make good + contact from the case + host AND to get rid of the deep front lip that the module would sit up against I had to remove some of the material from the inside of the top and I did so with a really cool drill bit that my friend Bow gave me:




I forgot to get a picture of it but I had used Arctic Alumina epoxy to glue the contact board onto the back of the module. This is what the module looks like inside the front host piece. The complete build is built so that there's just the right amount of tension between everything so the module makes good contact with the front host inside and the batteries also have the right tension from the screwing in the rear switch:


I sometimes use a small o-ring inside the focus knob when the lens will screw in to far to get close enough to the diode for infinite focus:




Some completed images:








With the rubber boot on the front if you like that look:


Labeled:


Beam shots with at 72mW with the driver set to 202mA (2) 10440 cells and a G type lens. If you are standing behind the lasers the freak 515 is on the right:










When I saw the color I knew that my freak 515nm diode would have a lower wavelength. Here's the comparison but keep in mind that the wavelength likely has pushed up because I'm beyond the nominal rating of the 15mW diode. The other unit is about 110mW so it is also brighter:




In this pic you see the bright flare on the left from the 510nm because it is closer to the floor:


This shows the color a bit better as I raised the 510nm up to get rid of most of the flair. If you can see it the right freak 515nm has a slight blue tint to it or if you want, you could say that the 510nm on the left has more yellow to it. I've said it before but the easy way (at least for me) to recognize a 532nm vs a 520nm without seeing them side by side is the 532nm has quite a lot of yellow in it. Love my freak 515nm which I have labeled as -515nm.


I could pull the module out and readjust the driver for a much lower output and see if the wavelength shifts down but at the moment I'm leaving it as is.

Thanks for looking and hopefully the build details will inspire others to build:)

Here's the links to the diode:
https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes/osram-10mw-plt5510-515nm-green-laser-diode

Diode data sheet:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_6-KC5wFXIJSFRzODhVaUd6a3c/view?pref=2&pli=1

Blitzlinear driver:
http://www.survivallaserusa.com/Blitz_Linear_Driver/p1667092_14164599.aspx

Home Depot host/light:
 
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BowtieGuy

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As always, a nice detailed tutorial on your new pen build Pete! :beer:
Although the rubber front piece looks good, I think I prefer the "naked" version.
Glad to see that drill bit coming in handy!
 

Lifetime17

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Hi Pman,
don't you just like the modding capabilities of those Husky's ?? I have about 6 hosts and 3 of those builds . Great pics always a plus Kudos to you awesome build .. And 510nm no less great choice of diode..

rich:)
 

Pman

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Thanks guys, I knew you 2 would jump in:)
Yes, I prefer not using the rubber front piece Jeff. Those bits were so perfect for this. No way to get the lens close enough to the diode for infinite focus and still keep it focus-able without thinning out that lip.
Yes, these pen lights are great for our pen builds Rich. I haven't been to HD in at least a month so haven't looked to see if they have anything else to offer. That was my last one of those so I'm going to need to pick up at least one more as they show only 3 left at my store. May get a chance to run over there Tuesday morning. Don't think they would be sold anywhere else as Husky is the stores brand.
All pics were taken with my note 4. Expect to get the note 7 around this Thanksgiving-Christmas time but also plan on keeping this phone as a backup as it is a great phone.

Fixed where I had written Blitzbuck as it is a Blitzlinear plus I added the links to the parts.
 
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94Z28

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Good looking pen style pman.. I am out hunting some local stores for a new host as we speak. I am getting inspiration from you and rich hahaha.
 

Pman

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Rich and Jeff know what they are doing;)
 

Lifetime17

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Hi Pete,
I don't put that boot on my pens either, i find that the lens doesn't focus enough. So if i use it i cut the front lip off the boot to set it flush with the front. But it still looks cheesy so i opt out for that look.. My stores have a bunch of them so i stock up ,, you never know if you know what i mean buddy.. You and Jeff have some awesome builds i must say.. I have 2-405 16x BDR sleds and a crap load of adjustable boost drives :thinking:

Rich:)
 
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Pman

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Those boosts are like gold right now and yes I get an agree with the boot thing.
I'm going to add 2 pics in a minute that I forgot that shows what I do sometimes with a focus knob to get the lens closer to the diode when I need to on lower output units.
 

94Z28

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I've got access to a lot of these streamlight junior led 2x AA lights and holsters for them as well.. wonder if we could do anything with them.


Here's one I'm measuring up to see.
 
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BowtieGuy

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Hey Z that looks like that would make a very good host, I'm sure you can make a nice laser with it! :)
Keep us updated if you decide to build with it!
 

Lifetime17

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hi,
We really get addicted with these cool pens , the Defiants started a lot of these going . But the husky's are a better concept in workmanship .. here a re a few a 700/638- PL520/520- BDR 209/405 and a PLTB450B that i couldn't find aa pic of.
But Pete ur the Pen man buddy ...

Rich:)
 

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Cel

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It's nice to see another well-documented build with good pics! :beer:
 

GSS

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As always, a nice detailed tutorial on your new pen build Pete! :beer:
Although the rubber front piece looks good, I think I prefer the "naked" version.
Glad to see that drill bit coming in handy!
How true, these detail pic by pic's are just so great to come back to.
Pman really nice:beer:
On this thread pen subject I started to give my lasers their proper home's in foam filled cases and Pman I couldn't believe how many pen build's you just sent me;) Now I have to make so so many extra foam cuts:whistle:
 
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Pman

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As anyone knows who has tried to build a pen unit correctly the spacing is really important for proper fit and you have to keep that in mind while building. I learned a long time ago that you need to be careful to get the tension on the switch right as they are sensitive to too little or too much pressure which can cause them to not switch or get stuck on or even break.
It also helps to have a really small driver especially as we are now mostly stuck with having to use 2 batteries. I haven't seen very many builds use the Blitzlinear but it has 2 ranges which basically go from about 70mA-500mA and 500-1000mA where you solder across 2 points for the low range. I've never tried using something smaller than a 10440 to try and compensate and don't know what's available that would legitimately give any real runtime.

I have an empty host of a wicked lasers pen that I had bought f4om Flaminpyro months back that has a 532nm sticker on it that I would like to rebuild but it's not easy finding a legit 150-200mW+ 532nm module. I could also just put a 515nm-520nm diode in it I suppose. The host was meant to have an oval momentary switch on the side which I would build for it too.
At the moment I have all my laser cases open and spread out in the family room and my wife asked me what do you do with them. Good question that I didn't want to answer as there's no legit answer I could come up with although I am going to do what I said and take pics of all (meaning the ones that have a constant on switch) the same wavelength ones still to show how different they can be. Hard for me to find the energy to do it but I think it would be a very educational thing to do before I make any move to sell some. I've been saying I need to sell some for the longest time but haven't yet;)
 

Pman

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I stopped by at home depot today and they didn't have any good stuff on clearance. Bought the 4 pens I could find like the one I just used and it was weird when I paid for them as I have always gotten 10% off from retired military but they would not ring up with the discount and they were not on sale.
In case anyone goes to their HD and can't find them they do offer 2 other double packs that cost a bit more that include this pen in them. There are 2 places where they put the pens. One is at the registers and the other is back in hardware. Found one in hardware and 3 at one of the checkouts. Be careful you are buying the one with the red tail clicky oLas it's easy to buy the wrong thing. As life mentioned, these are easier to work with. There's enough room in the front so that you can isolate the module from the host with some tape or whatever if you need to.
 
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