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Pioneer 8X BDR-203BKS Beam Visability Comparison

TheGr8Revealing

TheGr8Revealing

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Hey all.

So I am very seriously considering investing the $$$ into the fairly new Pioneer BDR-203BKS drive. However, before doing so I would like to know from others who have already completed the build if there is much of a difference in the beam viability to the eye (not a camera) at night or in low light environments when compared to other 405nm sources. Especially with the light traveling through the 405-G-1 lens.

Maybe testimonies from what you're eye sees in comparison to a 6x, 4x, and 803T's???? Or even rough comparison to 200-300mW reds or lower powered greens (20-50mW) in terms of brightness or visibility of the beam.

or

Non-exposure pictures at night comparing the beams? (coming at or traveling away from the camera)


Thanks for any input!!!
 





TheGr8Revealing said:
Hey all.

So I am very seriously considering investing the $$$ into the fairly new Pioneer BDR-203BKS drive. However, before doing so I would like to know from others who have already completed the build if there is much of a difference in the beam viability to the eye (not a camera) at night or in low light environments when compared to other 405nm sources. Especially with the light traveling through the 405-G-1 lens.

Maybe testimonies from what you're eye sees in comparison to a 6x, 4x, and 803T's???? Or even rough comparison to 200-300mW reds or lower powered greens (20-50mW) in terms of brightness or visibility of the beam.

or

Non-exposure pictures at night comparing the beams? (coming at or traveling away from the camera)


Thanks for any input!!!
Click to expand...


If you go to the Thread: Tutorial, Helps & Repairs/Pioneer - 8x Blu-Ray - BDR-203, in the first post of page 1 and in post 12, page 16, you'll find, respectively, some nice comparison pictures edited by Daguin and JayRob.

For what I know, these pictures are for the moment the only comparison pictures available in the LPF Forum.
 
Yeah, that was a really helpful thread with great pictures. Those advanced builders really know their stuff.
 
I need one of these right now xD (just waiting price drop)
 
Glass%20405nm13.jpg


Here is a pic from this thread: http://www.laserpointerforums.com/laser_pointer_forums_3/forum/showthread.php?t=36790&page=9
by: Jayrob

While its not the 8X diode it is running at a whopping 384mw. :gun: Should help visualizing the diff. :)

Hope it helps
 
immagine if he HAD put an 8x in that baby... wow is all i could say... what Mw do you think you could reach using an 8x and a 405 g-1??? I must know... as im torn between an 8x or an 803t for the money.
 
Darkarmyofone said:
immagine if he HAD put an 8x in that baby... wow is all i could say... what Mw do you think you could reach using an 8x and a 405 g-1??? I must know... as im torn between an 8x or an 803t for the money.
Click to expand...

Do a search for Daguins tests on the first 8X tested on this Forum...
He posted the max output there...

There is a HUGE difference in the money for a PHR803T($8.00 aprox.) and
an 8X ($200.00 aprox.)

Jerry
 
oh i know that theres a difference in price, was just curious what they could max out at with the 405g1 lens on. if its a 200-300 mw difference i'd most likely just wait till friday and order one. my buddys bringing me a bunch of red OC's today cus i backflashed my NEBO to death... i hate mirrors

and lasersbee, i've got a lite-on LH-18A1P 16x dvd-rw drive on its way to my house as we speak, any idea whats a safe current to push that particular diode at, as i've only worked with 20x open cans and a few 22x's as well. figured maybe you might know off hand.
 
Having a hard time finding the thread you mentioned too, i did a search but to no avail.

searched his name with 8x, test, tests, blue, blue ray, and so on... im still interested in knowing that max current though...
 
IIRC, it was 502mW using Jayrobs lens and a custom driver by Dr. Lava - because of the insanely high current required, there were dropout problems using any of the conventional drivers available...
 
so what your saying is it requires a different driver, im assuming that driver is probably a bit bigger? or did it just need a revamp to correct the dropouts, very curious about that, as acheiving half a watt is my ultimate personal goal. i want half a watt in the palm of my hands!... man that would be LOADS of fun. was the 502mw build small or was it a lil larger than normal... i would guess due to heat?

yes i know i could easily have a half watt red diode or something, but blue would be soooooo much cooler.
 
It was 512mW, the driver was made by Jayrob, it was basically just a regular DDL (LM317T) driver but with higher spec components (ie higher wattage resistors and potentiometer), the host was a standard sized, albeit somewhat larger flashlight.

My 8x wasn't as bright as my DXtrue50 greenie, but that's to be expected of bluray. The color of them seems a little closer to UV than PHR's... I've seen PHR's at around 100mW that look almost as bright as my 8x was at some ~450mW. The main difference is that the 8x would mercilessly burn through anything it touched. With the jayrob G1 lens I was able to make a nasty black mark on my white painted wall from 20 feet away, focused to infinity... I also burnt some holes *through* floppy disks in under a minute, focused to infinity.

If you want to read Daguin's thread, it's stickied at the top of the tutorials/help board.
 
Asheville NC, you from around these parts brother?

i just lost ANOTHER red OC to a frickin loose pin... i need a better method of pressing the diodes into the module... i think thats how im messing them up. some are fine, but others the entire pin pulls right out of the diode... instantly snaping that hair thin wire they use in the LOC diodes. i've about had it with the frickin open cans. im just gunna get a PHR and call it a day... oh yeah before i forget, will i have to mod my "stock" LM317 driver to go from running red OC's to running a blueray diode? i know the blue diodes require a higher voltage and whatnot, any tips would be greatly appreciated.
 
The presence or absence of a can should have no relevance as far as pulling pins out goes. In fact, one of the pins of the LOC doesn't connect to anything, so losing it has no effect at all... maybe it's more related to your harvesting technique? I hear they are more difficult to get out of the heatsink.

You shouldn't need to do anything to your driver, just give it a higher input voltage of about 7.5V or more. And remember to turn the current down to about 120mA.
 
;527314 said:
It was 512mW, the driver was made by Jayrob, it was basically just a regular DDL (LM317T) driver but with higher spec components (ie higher wattage resistors and potentiometer), the host was a standard sized, albeit somewhat larger flashlight.

My 8x wasn't as bright as my DXtrue50 greenie, but that's to be expected of bluray. The color of them seems a little closer to UV than PHR's... I've seen PHR's at around 100mW that look almost as bright as my 8x was at some ~450mW. The main difference is that the 8x would mercilessly burn through anything it touched. With the jayrob G1 lens I was able to make a nasty black mark on my white painted wall from 20 feet away, focused to infinity... I also burnt some holes *through* floppy disks in under a minute, focused to infinity.

If you want to read Daguin's thread, it's stickied at the top of the tutorials/help board.
Click to expand...

awesome! thanks so much. answered exactly what i was asking. I am more interested in the brightness of the beam than the burning power. I think i'll just stick to my 803T's and 6x's then. thanks a bunch pseudolobster!
 
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