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FrozenGate by Avery

Open can laser won't lase

As mentioned, without proper optics, you WON'T get a beam, you'll get just a circle of light, even when it is lasing.

Also, running the diode at 200mA without any heatsink will damage it within seconds. The casing (heatsink) should never get hot to the touch (warm, yes - very warm, better not - hot, no).
 





did you look at the picture ? i dont think thats what the "beam" is supposed to look like
 
As i can see there is almost no light from diode.
Even if he uses optics he won't get high powerful laser.

This diode is death.
 
It won't give you a nice straight beam unless you use a collimator assembly. The raw output of a diode is still laser light, just not collimated. Though this diode probably is dead now from running at 200mA without some form of heatsink.

Regards,

-Adam
 
It won't give you a nice straight beam unless you use a collimator assembly. The raw output of a diode is still laser light, just not collimated. Though this diode probably is dead now from running at 200mA without some form of heatsink.

Regards,

-Adam

EDIT: sorry for the double post , internet cut out when I clicked post .
 
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what im interested in...is WHY the diode is dead...
it gave the exact same results even when it was in its original heatsink from the burner...i just soldered onto the 2 pads already on the ribbon cable...exact same output

how do you guys get these diodes out of their casings...i had a very hard time doing this, it wouldnt come off by pushing/pulling at all, even after i removed the glue or whatever was on it...i had to physically cut the casing with a wire cutter, from both sides, then the diode could be moved

running it at 200mW is not what killed it...and it was in that metal thing you can see on the right side of the last image
 
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rajkosto said:
what im interested in...is WHY the diode is dead...
it gave the exact same results even when it was in its original heatsink from the burner...i just soldered onto the 2 pads already on the ribbon cable...exact same output

how do you guys get these diodes out of their casings...i had a very hard time doing this, it wouldnt come off by pushing/pulling at all, even after i removed the glue or whatever was on it...i had to physically cut the casing with a wire cutter, from both sides, then the diode could be moved

running it at 200mW is not what killed it...and it was in that metal thing you can see on the right side of the last image
Click to expand...

Mostly we just twist the metal heatsinks and the diode pops out.

You may have killed it from the heat of soldering.

-Adam
 
i have a temperature controllable soldering station, what heat should i use
also i doubt it was the heat, since i desoldered the CD one from the same burner with the same heat and its lasing at infrared normally (can see with camera)

with cheap chinese lens :
http://i42.tinypic.com/29bci8.jpg

even with the lens it doesnt ACT like a laser pointer...the dot gets bigger the farther the target is from the diode...so it spreads to infinity after like 20cm
it does refract throgh water etc tho...but its much weaker than the 1mW laser that it replaced...
 
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You need Axiz case, it's cheapest way.
However, you need to get another diode.
 
i ordered both...but want to mess around with the things i have atm...before they arrive (another 10 days sigh)
 
Also, the wires you are using for the diode look like solid core. Is that correct?

If so, these are probably a little bit too stiff. LOC red diodes are notorious for having 'weak' pins. By that I mean that they ROTATE very easily. My guess is you may have rotated a pin, even just a tiny amount, and it would have killed the diode.

Like many others have said, you wont get any sort of beam without optics. You'll have like 30mRad (probably more... I'm just throwing a number out there) divergence, which means at only a few feet away, the 'dot' will be several inches in diameter.

Also, it will not lase a 12mA. They need around 50mA minimum at around 2.5-3V.

and not to beat a dead horse here, but yes you really really need heat sinking.
 
Laser diodes do not emit a perfect perpendicular beam, this is a common misconception. They emit just like an LED, a wide spray of photons in every direction 180 degrees from the aperture of the die. You need a culminating lens focused at the right point for it to emit a beam.

Get an aixiz module, press your diode into it, and focus the lens to produce a beam.

I'm not sure your diode is dead in any way, if the wash of red it produces seems pretty bright it doesn't matter if you don't feel any heat, since the human body disperses red light very well it takes a whole lot of red to feel any heat whatsoever. I'm willing to bet if you mounted it in a focusable module you'd be able to burn things with it.
 
I agree a laser diode is exactly like an LED when it is by itself. but when you combine it with a columnating lens it will focus all that spread out light into a perfect beam visible for miles!

your cheapest solution would be a $5.00 aixiz module 12mmx30mm wich comes with a lens. search "Aixiz 12 x 30" on Ebay you'll find it.

For my very first project i spent less than 10 US dollars and came up with this Uzi host thats quite fun to play with! i have a 300mw open can red diode running at 415Ma mounted in here with a generic 30Ma-1A driver and a 6 volt photo cell from Ingles. check it out.

uzi1.jpg
[/IMG]

heres a pic of it burning up some electrical tape, please excuse the quality...cellphone...
uzi3.jpg
[/IMG]

simple enough, but the uzi does not allow for a heatsink... so i can only run it for about 2 mins.

anyways the point was its easy and cheap to get yourself a functional laser to play around with before you start your next project! and i doubt your laser is burnt out if it still emmits a bright red glow, even at a low Ma. Happy lazing!
 
rajkosto said:
i have a temperature controllable soldering station, what heat should i use
also i doubt it was the heat, since i desoldered the CD one from the same burner with the same heat and its lasing at infrared normally (can see with camera)

with cheap chinese lens :
http://i42.tinypic.com/29bci8.jpg

even with the lens it doesnt ACT like a laser pointer...the dot gets bigger the farther the target is from the diode...so it spreads to infinity after like 20cm
it does refract throgh water etc tho...but its much weaker than the 1mW laser that it replaced...
Click to expand...

The dot always gets bigger from any laser the further you get away from the source.

The CD LD is a different, diode it may be able to survive different temperatures. You could have also killed the LD with ESD.

Just get a new diode and an aixiz module and be done with it .

Adam
 
FYI LD and LED are not "exactly" the same. I don't recommend it, but have you ever stared at an open LD? I have. also if they were the same we would be able to focus the LED like an LD right? just food for thought

michael
 
tasty food indeed, your right... staring into an led wont blind you "maybe a big UV led would..." but definately dont stare into the laser diode.

in short i think it was just a general comparison, because they both use an anode and cathode and emit light in a conical shape. so they are the same in the standard rights, but not in depth. they are far from exactly the same.

so how about an update? did u get it working ok? or is it toast?
 
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