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FrozenGate by Avery

OK? on my first build?






Also, as for my homemade heatsinks, i would be putting it ONLY on the chips that need it, not over the entire board. It would only touch the black plastic part of the chip, no metal.
 
also for your first build you can buy the m140 diode with a 1.8a X-drive already attached and leads coming out from DTR. That way you don't run the risk of damaging anything and you can get an idea of what/how it is attached. Mohgasm makes great drivers which I buy all the time but imho lazeerer's X-drive is better but they can be hard to find/get and are twice as much.

https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes/445-m140-didoes

This is what i did for my first build, I am not saying you need to I was just letting you know this option.
 
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You want to apply the thermal adhesive to the IC which is what you are heatsinking.

DSC02942copy_zps5270e125.jpg


Then you want to put your heatsink on the IC and make sure that the heatsink is not hitting anything! This includes the heatsink in your host or in this case the driver pill. If it touches the driver board or hits up against something it can cause a short which will kill your driver and possibly your diode.

DSC02939_zps59a8290e.jpg


DSC02938_zpsd0861e30.jpg
 
Ok, not to be rude, but i have two questions to be answered, and some of you are giving me things i dont need yet. I have 2 questions i need answering:

1) does the moghasm round linear driver NEED heatsinking?

2) Is my build all compatible and good? You can see my build in one of the posts above.

Please answer one or both soon!
Thanks
 
KRNAZNBOY said:
Ok, not to be rude, but i have two questions to be answered, and some of you are giving me things i dont need yet. I have 2 questions i need answering:

1) does the moghasm round linear driver NEED heatsinking?

2) Is my build all compatible and good? You can see my build in one of the posts above.

Please answer one or both soon!
Thanks
Click to expand...

Not to be rude but sorry our tech service department isn't giving you what you want... We apologize.

What don't you need yet?

1 up to you
2 should work fine
 
^^^^ lol but to answer your question in another way

1. no it doesnt NEED to be heatsinked but if you want it top last longer and not over heat, yeah it should be heat sinked
2. compatible, yes. all the parts will work in the C6 host
 
Sweet thanks guys. Best help EVER will make sure to post pics of final product!
 
What kind of life time am I looking at if I don't and do heat sink the driver
 
hard to tell, they are electronic parts and differ. if you dont it could be as little as 1 day, if you do and use proper duty cycles it could last you years!
 
Double posting is frowned upon here. Use the edit button on your previous post.

To answere your question, it's hard to say how long a homemade device will work.
You most likely will fry your driver at that current depending on your duty cycle.

Is it worth the risk?
 
Hmm doesn't show a double post on this end. Anyways...how can I avoid that risk?
 
i think his is referring to post #11 & 12 along with post #17 & 18

just heat sink the driver.....ends a lot of head scratching when the laser does die and it will if its not heat sinked. how long this will take depends, 1 sec-who knows

duty cycle should be like 45s on 60s+ off or would you guys even suggest shorter on?
 
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