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Odicforce Entry Level Laser Kits

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Toke

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I just checked, the tailcap current goes from 108mA with 2x1,5V to 217mA with 2x3V batteries. :)

As for the picture, sizing it up does not improve it. :eek:
I will have to either get a new or learn how to take steady photos. Will try again tonight.
 

Toke

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I have been busy in the workshop today. :D

Apart from the kit, I ordered a focusable 5mW module, and got a host from a "dollar store" one with 3xAAA, a <5mW laser and 8 led's.
(The module, OFL59, have + to casing, I noticed when it did not turn on and the batteries got hot)

It fits a heatsink of 25mm dia. so I have turned a hexagonal brass rod down to app. 25 mm and drilled a 12mm hole through. A 3mm threaded hole all the way through is used for module set screw, and heatsink to host screw.
It turned out less crappy than I thought, I might even keep it for more than a test bed. :)



My new low power laser with Odic-Force 100mW kit and spare heatsink for the next cheapskate host.



The 5mW is just noticeable to the left.
The 100mW is focused to pinpoint with much less spillover than visible here.

(This is the maximum size pictures I can upload here, guess I will someday have to find a hosting service to hotlink from)

ETA: I think I got it now. :)
 
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Morgan

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You're moving along then. Good stuff. You'll find that most modules are case, 'something'. Greens and reds, as you have now discovered, are normally case +ve, (I've not heard a case -ve for these but there's always an exception!). Blurays, (and now the 445nm), are floating case in normal circumstances but can be either case -ve, or +ve.

I'm sure you considered this but for a 5mW module, heatsinking is rarely needed unless it is a poor efficiency DPSS system but I think this may just have been for the practise, correct? The learning on cheap, expendable components is invaluable and you will reap the rewards later. ;)

Nice!

{IMPORTANT EDIT: I don't know where my head has been at over the last few days but obviously most reds are case negative not positive so please don't let this damage your diodes. If in doubt then check this thread - [http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/diodes-compilation-all-diodes-data-one-thread-45042.html - for accurate information. If still in doubt then please ask. I apologise for this error but I'm doing my best to put it right. Thank you.}

M
:)

(you definitely do need a better camera! :na: )
 
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Toke

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I am aware that a 5mW red have plenty heat sinking in just the module. :D
A 300mW red is likely to need a bit more metal, and there will be 5 diodes waiting for me when I sign off. :drool:
Well, the point here is that Odic-Force make some good starters kits.
And that I will keep shopping there.
 

DrSid

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This laser seems to be identical to new style dilda sold everywhere. Mine from DX runs at 320mA (power unknown), on two lithium batteries. I have Li-ons ordered, I'm expecting them this or next week, but IMHO the current will be same.
 
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(This is the maximum size pictures I can upload here, guess I will someday have to find a hosting service to hotlink from)
Here is a link to my tutorial on posting pictures. Just make sure the dont go over 800 pixels. You can use 'Paint' to resize. Go to TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting and upload it. Then follow the instructions below.

http://laserpointerforums.com/f57/new-smileys-instructions-add-images-your-posts-53286.html
Click the TinyPic link in the post I posted. Its easy.
 

Toke

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Click the TinyPic link in the post I posted. Its easy.
I did not read that properly the first time around, I just saw the bit about posting on the forum. :eek:

Have edited through tinypic, not much of an improvement of the blurry, and not in 800 pixels yet. Thanks for the help.
 
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There is not much you can about the blur, except what is already suggested. You can also use better lighting. If your camera has an auto feature, it will adjust the speed accordingly to the better lighting. Unfortunately you will lose some beam color.

Open the picture in 'Paint', click 'Resize', then 'Pixels' and add '800' to either the vertical, or horizontal, depending on what is the larger area of your picture. Paint will automatically recalculate the other pixel setting. Then save it, and upload it to TinyPic. You know the rest.
 

Morgan

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It look slike you're getting the enlargement okay but I think you're making the short side 800 pixels. When in landscape, the long side should be 800 pixels. That fits nicely on the screen like this, (at least it does for me ;) ) -



It's probably in TJ's tutorial but you can resize at the download stage on tinypic.com. Use the 800x600 option. The rest is pure camera work. Tripod is good but that timer on a steady surface will help loads.

BTW, Do you work on ships? The pics I've seen have the decor of maritime cabins?

M
:)
 
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Toke

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BTW, Do you work on ships? The pics I've seen have the decor of maritime cabins?
Well spotted :), I am a ships electrician.


ETA: I think I got the uploading figured out now. :)
 
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agravlin

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So, question...

Do we snap off the "Not Used" pin on the diode, or is there any reason to leave it there?
 

Morgan

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Well spotted :), I am a ships electrician.


ETA: I think I got the uploading figured out now. :)
Well, it was the decor in the pics and the rather glum expression on what looks to be a, 'no this is not a pleasure cruise', guy sitting in commercial seating in your Avatar!


So, question...

Do we snap off the "Not Used" pin on the diode, or is there any reason to leave it there?
You can snap it off as it's not used! But...

A lot of drivers have a pad for it to be soldered to. It helps with structural integrity.

M
:)
 
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agravlin

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YES! I did it! I "built" my first laser! You know... minus harvesting the diode and setting the driver and press-fitting the module.

It's a great feeling when you hit that button and it actually turns on.

The dot isn't amazing, and it doesn't burn. The dot has a big halo around it, and focusing doesn't really get rid of it.
 




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