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WOW that is some pretty good alignment for such an array.. the Nichia one I mean. Thanks for showing this
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FrozenGate by Avery
NUBM31T 95W 455nm
- Thread starter Jirkas99
- Start date
WOW that is some pretty good alignment for such an array.. the Nichia one I mean. Thanks for showing this
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2015
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It's always nice to tape a ruler to your target so people can see the size of the spot/print, how about a lot of pics of the units while powered up please 
Hello,
did you change the alignment of the glued on optics?
My array seems to be much different.
If you did draw the brackets around each spot it would indicate that your array is properly collimated.
My array is not collimated. It seems the lens it to close to the diodes e.g. no focus point but not a clean beam like one from other high power diodes.
On my array each diode is more square not rectangular.
Also the beams do "cross" at around 1m (only estimate) the top row crosses the bottom row.
Seems like I did get a "bad" array
About the TEC / Driver
Tecs don't like PWM because the constant thermal contraction and expansion of the elements will eventually break them.
Also the tec will be flowing heat back if it is switched off during the PWM cycle, this means much worse efficiency.
I think they added it for show projector use, there you don't need the full power of the diode part but most manufacturers want to have tec so the optics doesn't shift with temperature.
Think about the >48 SM red diode modules, there you need the high voltage/many channels to drive them in series and a tec to get the optics to stay align and maybe also to overdrive the diodes more.
They also have a add-on driver to get more tec power, data sheet mentions it as "Tecbooster" seems like you can connect this module? to get "up to 25A" tec output. I don't have the data sheet for this booster, but I'm confident if you contact them you will get it.
So in theory the driver could drive this monster tec that would be needed for this array.
Maybe I will check the efficiency of the module at 20°C vs 70°C.
If I get the array focused right and I need more power for cutting/engraving I will give it a shot.
did you change the alignment of the glued on optics?
My array seems to be much different.
If you did draw the brackets around each spot it would indicate that your array is properly collimated.
My array is not collimated. It seems the lens it to close to the diodes e.g. no focus point but not a clean beam like one from other high power diodes.
On my array each diode is more square not rectangular.
Also the beams do "cross" at around 1m (only estimate) the top row crosses the bottom row.
Seems like I did get a "bad" array
About the TEC / Driver
Tecs don't like PWM because the constant thermal contraction and expansion of the elements will eventually break them.
Also the tec will be flowing heat back if it is switched off during the PWM cycle, this means much worse efficiency.
I think they added it for show projector use, there you don't need the full power of the diode part but most manufacturers want to have tec so the optics doesn't shift with temperature.
Think about the >48 SM red diode modules, there you need the high voltage/many channels to drive them in series and a tec to get the optics to stay align and maybe also to overdrive the diodes more.
They also have a add-on driver to get more tec power, data sheet mentions it as "Tecbooster" seems like you can connect this module? to get "up to 25A" tec output. I don't have the data sheet for this booster, but I'm confident if you contact them you will get it.
So in theory the driver could drive this monster tec that would be needed for this array.
Maybe I will check the efficiency of the module at 20°C vs 70°C.
If I get the array focused right and I need more power for cutting/engraving I will give it a shot.
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I was able to get the nubm31t to focus to about (1.2 x 1.8 mm) spot with a Plano Convex lens 200mm FL
It is hilarious to instantaneously explode things I put into the focused beam. I just invented something super useful. I cut 4 circles of polarized filters. 2 are fixed on each eye of my goggles, the other 2 are on a swivel 3d printed so they can spin 45deg. Now, I have easy access to about 40~99% light blocking capability!
Unfortunately, the nubm31t I have is used and near end of life. It also has some significant defects with the pin configuration. I was betting on the Osram to perform just as good, and just got the Nichia as a back up because it was so cheap to refuse. I am glad I did so I don't have to stuck with the horrible alignment of the Osram.
__
I am sorry to hear your nichia may have an issue. I will be purchasing a new nichia and will see how consistent it is.
When I was burning stuff, at around 500mm, I also saw rectangles maybe about 4x8mm? But at 6m, I only saw thin horizontal lines. These horizontal lines may be from the slow axis and the fast axis as already diverged?? I am still weak on the topic of slow/fast axis. Try testing at around 5m maybe you get the same result as me. The important thing is to confirm the alignment because there is nothing we can do about that. Focus can be modified at the least. I don't believe they would make a mistake on the lens if their diodes are aligned so well.
I did not modify the lens yet. My goal was to have around 1x1mm spot size and I already came pretty close. When the new module arrives, I will modify the old nichia and see what happens.
___
A good cooler I am considering is the Noctua NH-U14S. The company makes very reputable coolers. It has a very long profile which perfect for the nichia.
I want to thank you again for referring me to livelasersystems they have very interesting things that will certainly be using for my project.
It is hilarious to instantaneously explode things I put into the focused beam. I just invented something super useful. I cut 4 circles of polarized filters. 2 are fixed on each eye of my goggles, the other 2 are on a swivel 3d printed so they can spin 45deg. Now, I have easy access to about 40~99% light blocking capability!
Unfortunately, the nubm31t I have is used and near end of life. It also has some significant defects with the pin configuration. I was betting on the Osram to perform just as good, and just got the Nichia as a back up because it was so cheap to refuse. I am glad I did so I don't have to stuck with the horrible alignment of the Osram.
__
I am sorry to hear your nichia may have an issue. I will be purchasing a new nichia and will see how consistent it is.
When I was burning stuff, at around 500mm, I also saw rectangles maybe about 4x8mm? But at 6m, I only saw thin horizontal lines. These horizontal lines may be from the slow axis and the fast axis as already diverged?? I am still weak on the topic of slow/fast axis. Try testing at around 5m maybe you get the same result as me. The important thing is to confirm the alignment because there is nothing we can do about that. Focus can be modified at the least. I don't believe they would make a mistake on the lens if their diodes are aligned so well.
I did not modify the lens yet. My goal was to have around 1x1mm spot size and I already came pretty close. When the new module arrives, I will modify the old nichia and see what happens.
___
A good cooler I am considering is the Noctua NH-U14S. The company makes very reputable coolers. It has a very long profile which perfect for the nichia.
I want to thank you again for referring me to livelasersystems they have very interesting things that will certainly be using for my project.
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2015
- Messages
- 255
- Points
- 43
I am not sure. This is what I can calculate for you:
Nichia nubm31t 95W @ 1.8 x 1.2mm = 44W/mm2 power density
Nichia nubm44v2 7W @ 0.2 x 0.2mm = 175W/mm2 power density
The nubm44v2 has much more power density. But 9% of the output of the nubm31t. Need to consider what you plan to cut. If you need clean and precise cutting, seems like nubm44v2 is still the best.
However, maybe things like metal or stone needs raw output, this may do the job?
There is a way to farther reduce the spot size. You need to modify the multi lens and slightly increase the height and farther away from the diodes.
If you are interested to test this, I can refer you to a laser seller with a suitable driver for 50USD (new) and could sell you my osram plpm4 450 for cheap lol
Nichia nubm31t 95W @ 1.8 x 1.2mm = 44W/mm2 power density
Nichia nubm44v2 7W @ 0.2 x 0.2mm = 175W/mm2 power density
The nubm44v2 has much more power density. But 9% of the output of the nubm31t. Need to consider what you plan to cut. If you need clean and precise cutting, seems like nubm44v2 is still the best.
However, maybe things like metal or stone needs raw output, this may do the job?
There is a way to farther reduce the spot size. You need to modify the multi lens and slightly increase the height and farther away from the diodes.
If you are interested to test this, I can refer you to a laser seller with a suitable driver for 50USD (new) and could sell you my osram plpm4 450 for cheap lol
Last edited:
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2016
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Hi likevvii, Do you have the same Osram chip as me? On your hand made pics to post 128 it looks that you have one with 20 beams, not 24.
I have the newest osram plpm4 450 65W with the 6s4p configuration.
It is difficult to tell exactly where each beam is so my drawing was just a best guess. Sorry, I didn't spend adequate time doing this. The osram was especially difficult to map the beams. Some were well off the range and barely visible. You can look at other bottom of my chart. There is a weak beam that is below the graph. I couldn't tell if it was a beam or something else.
For both the nichia and osram, some beams seemed to have overlapped and I couldn't really tell either.
It is difficult to tell exactly where each beam is so my drawing was just a best guess. Sorry, I didn't spend adequate time doing this. The osram was especially difficult to map the beams. Some were well off the range and barely visible. You can look at other bottom of my chart. There is a weak beam that is below the graph. I couldn't tell if it was a beam or something else.
For both the nichia and osram, some beams seemed to have overlapped and I couldn't really tell either.
Driver for nubm31t?
I am also interested in a driver for the nubm31t , i contacted a company in Hong Kong that specializes in building these kind of things for a quote.
Please let me know if you find an alternative source for the above driver.
Thx
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- Nov 12, 2011
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I'd be interested in using this diode if it will cut 22 guage sheet metal. It would be great for making light fixtures and decorative light shades. If anyone can cobble up a cnc. Or retro fit a crossbow style plasma cnc
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If one day I buy NUBM31T I would try something like this driver.
19.95US $ 16% OFF|Cc Cv Digital Control Power Supply 6v~60v Boost To 60~90v 600w Adjustable Step Up Dc Converters Regulated Ammeter Capacity Meter - Inverters & Converters - AliExpress
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www.aliexpress.com
It allows 6-60V input range and has a kind of LCD screen, not only 12V input/no screen as the more expensive compact driver sold in taobao cited in this thread on pg. 4.
Maybe you can find a more recent programmable version of it, I did not search too heavy.
Here is one with output up to 120V (900W):
25.33US $ 5% OFF|900w Dc-dc Digital Boost Module Led Display Adjustable Boost Module Module Boost Converter Adjustable Boost Module - Voltage Regulators/stabilizers - AliExpress
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
www.aliexpress.com
Last edited:
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Now techhood has them soldered with a PCB. It is written brand new item but price is cheaper than without PCB. I doubt that it is new...
Was having a hunt around Taobao for cheaper sources of these lasers and stumbled across these dedicated drivers: https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=601690664285