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FrozenGate by Avery

NUBM31T 95W 455nm






@ BrillantLasers ........ Very nice (y)

If you use a concave then a convex you can put the convex on a couple of linear motion slide rails and make it zoom to focus and get a tighter bundle/hotter spot, granted those arrays are limited by each beams aggressive fast axis divergence but a zoom/beam expander setup is likely the best approach.

Here's some test results with my 05 block, my plpm array died an early death so no zoom test with it, also your concave doesn't need to be as big as mine, it's just one I had on hand for the test.

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@ Unknown (WILD) ........ Yes I saw that on the discord, has everyone signed up there yet ?
 
RedCowboy said:
@ Unknown (WILD) ........ Yes I saw that on the discord, has everyone signed up there yet ?
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Na not yet. I think a lot of people don't use or know discord all that much. There's a SELEM discord that's pretty much turned into photonlexicons discord but not many talk in there either and there's a lot of members. Lulightech, Buffo and Spec are the owners there.
 
RedCowboy said:
@ BrillantLasers ........ Very nice (y)

If you use a concave then a convex you can put the convex on a couple of linear motion slide rails and make it zoom to focus and get a tighter bundle/hotter spot, granted those arrays are limited by each beams aggressive fast axis divergence but a zoom/beam expander setup is likely the best approach.

Here's some test results with my 05 block, my plpm array died an early death so no zoom test with it, also your concave doesn't need to be as big as mine, it's just one I had on hand for the test.

-----------------------------------------------------

@ Unknown (WILD) ........ Yes I saw that on the discord, has everyone signed up there yet ?
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That is the plan. You might notice there is a rail on top of the gun. That's actually how the 'hood' sits over the laser diode. The slide is meant for any ad on's I decide to make. And that includes a beam expander.

Today I was attempting welding with the gun. I bought some welding rods and grabbed a magnifying glass lens. The magnifying lens focuses the dot as small as 1mm. I was able to melt the tip of the welding rod really fast, but I don't think it's QUITE hot enough to get the molten metal to stick to another metal surface.

Also, laser goggles don't do very well when welding, so I was wearing 2 pairs haha. :(
 
Make sure to wear good safety glasses, most here buy the Eagle Pair from survival lasers.

I see you added some copper to your battery box, I have done the same as the crappy little springs get red hot carrying several amps so I have started using these, they grab the cells much better and you can wire them any way you want with decent wire to carry the current.
 
RedCowboy said:
Make sure to wear good safety glasses, most here buy the Eagle Pair from survival lasers.

I see you added some copper to your battery box, I have done the same as the crappy little springs get red hot carrying several amps so I have started using these, they grab the cells much better and you can wire them any way you want with decent wire to carry the current.
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Thanks for the links. Yeah with laser glasses I was more referring to the bright white light when melting metal, doesn't get filtered very well by most laser glasses, if I do more welding, I might buy welding goggles to pair with laser glasses.

Hahah, yeah those battery holders I bought were garbage, I honestly think the default wiring could barely handle much more than an amp, tiny little hair thin wires connecting the terminals in series. (I don't even understand the point in making and selling lithium battery packs that aren't even strong enough for AA batteries haha.
 
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BrilliantLasers said:
Hey everyone, as promised, here are some pictures of my WIP laser pistol with the Nubm31 designed from scratch with 3d printed parts. 8 Panasonic 18650s are outputting 260-280 watts, which after voltage step up ends up being 83v 3.2-3.3 amps. The gun is pretty ugly right now as some things have been last minute thrown in with duct tape and what not(Not finished, things will be cleaned up)

I've been having trouble with buttons burning out and not handling a mere 3 amps?! Like what the hell is with all the low amp/fake amperage ratings of momentary buttons out there?! I'm actually considering making my own button trigger from scratch. It's literally the simplest electrical part in the world, yet it's so hard to find a button that can realistically handle over 2-3 amps! Right now I'm using a tiny button from a dollar store toy, and it's holding up better than this apparent '3 amp' button I purchased for the gun originally.

Ps, that hilarious circuit board attached to the back, is a driver I had to attach to the gun to drive the fan(Originally intended to drive 7 watt diodes). I didn't intend to have a dedicated power supply for the fan, but the 32 volt batteries were to high for that little thing.


View attachment 72659View attachment 72660View attachment 72661
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Lock and Load! What are you going to do with it?
 
Well, I don't know what kind of weapon it would make. Deter an attack or burn him and really piss him off!
 
I sometimes add a pair of red blocking laser safety glasses to my green/blue blockers which makes everything dark until I start lasing material on the bench top, I don't like that bright amber/orange glow so try adding some of the light blue lens orange blockers, the extra wide over the glasses size, not the dark blue or you can't see much at all.
 
You could use plastic polarized sheets cut in a circular shape for variable brightness control based on the rotation in relation to each other. For examining laser spots or directly at LEDs I need 3 polarized sheets.
 
likevvii said:
You could use plastic polarized sheets cut in a circular shape for variable brightness control based on the rotation in relation to each other. For examining laser spots or directly at LEDs I need 3 polarized sheets.
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Somehow I feel like plastic sheets absorbing 100 watts of laser would get pulverized.. :p
 
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