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FrozenGate by Avery

NUBM08 4.3W 455nm Laser Diode

You might do better to have some threaded inserts made because you will need to get close to the can, rear FL on the G2 is 2.39mm or you could use a plate and long lens housings, alignment is critical.

You could also get a block made and use 12mm modules , a circular ring could work well for BDR-209's then a + and - lens to zoom the bundle.

Again alignment is critical, I built some for 660nm diodes but I made the x/y axis adjustable.

I'm not set up for production, I just dabble, but there are others here who can make what you want.

I would prefer a circle arrangement myself.

This is one I started but again alignment is critical so maybe I will have my friend at a shop with a 5 axis CNC mill my block when I am ready, I would like to have one made where all the modules are aligned in a cone, then use a double concave and a doublet to set bundle width and convergence distance.

52635d1469957306-nubm08-4-3w-455nm-laser-diode-sany0252.jpg

52636d1469957306-nubm08-4-3w-455nm-laser-diode-sany0251.jpg
 

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astralist said:
@Atomicrox: actually i agree with you, the brightness of the laser may shift our eyes to the mesopic condition, sadly the mesopic table cannot be found anywhere on every research/journal websites.
Of course deriving the number only from the scotopic and photopic data may be problematic and kinda impossible for me :D

But again, i just used the number from the table, and the visibility also depends on the atmosphere condition ;)

I got all the data from http://www.cvrl.org

The data from rhd's tool match with the CIE photopic 1951 data from the cvrl.
Let me know if you have another version of CIE table. :beer:

P.S:
About the scattering factor, i used formula from here
My program can be downloaded here
Click to expand...

You could use a normalized weighted average of the scotopic and photopic curves as a tentative mesopic curve.

Took a look at the CVRL site, it seems like there's some naming confusion going on - the data they call CIE 1924 is the same I had under CIE 1931.

The one I knew as CIE 1978, which is used on rhd's tool, is in Luminosity functions under CIE Photopic V(λ) modified by Judd (1951) and Vos (1978) [also known as CIE VM(λ)]. AFAIK that's the best data available.
 
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Hi RC,

The heatsink with 9 holes you have started looks very cool, if once you switch to another project I would talke it.
In March I have asked a colleague who has access to CNC workshop to make 4 12mm holes for aixiz modules in a copper chunk, but untill today he only did 3 and the 4th was 13mm! So the things here in Spain are done.

Alignment can be improved by knife-edging later and AB has sent me an empty block where he extracted 44s from. As you can see, G-2 (on the right) is longer than even the hole without the LD, on the left is asymmetric lense from Lasertack - it is shorter than G2, but I think it could also be fixed on a threaded copper plate attached over the block when LD is still inside of the hole.

And I have tried to make an adapter from this 9mm tube left on picture but the holes itself are exactly 9.1mm wide, so cutting M9x0.5 thread inside of such 9mm tubes or bigger tubes (10mm diameter) which could pass in these holes is impossible!
Maybe I better buy 08 block from lasertechgear? It has all collimators already on.
 

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Interesting pic, answered a question.


If you mean to use the factory Gball then I would get a block of NUBM06 or possibly NUMB05, I have not tested the 05 yet but brand new 05 blocks are under 400 dollars, and I was told they are like the NDB7A75 with a Gball, so that means better divergence too but likely a 5 watt ceiling.

Gball NUBM08 at 15 feet makes a 25mm x 75mm box....... 2 inch line at 15 feet via G2
Gball NUBM07 at 15 feet makes a 25mm x 50mm box....... 1.75 inch live at 15 feet via G2
Gball NUBM06 at 15 feet makes a 25mm x 5mm line........ 1.5 inch line at 15 feet via G2

The 08's power is spread out over 1500% of the area of the 06 via the factory Gball as it comes to us.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...ubm05&_sacat=0


---------edit---------

One good thing about the 08 and 44 being 5-10 nm apart is they should cube combine without a wave plate.....anyone know what the loss is using a cube?

Should it in fact be a polarizing cube?
 
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RedCowboy said:
Interesting pic, answered a question.


If you mean to use the factory Gball then I would get a block of NUBM06 or possibly NUMB05, I have not tested the 05 yet but brand new 05 blocks are under 400 dollars, and I was told they are like the NDB7A75 with a Gball, so that means better divergence too but likely a 5 watt ceiling.

Gball NUBM08 at 15 feet makes a 25mm x 75mm box....... 2 inch line at 15 feet via G2
Gball NUBM07 at 15 feet makes a 25mm x 50mm box....... 1.75 inch live at 15 feet via G2
Gball NUBM06 at 15 feet makes a 25mm x 5mm line........ 1.5 inch line at 15 feet via G2

The 08's power is spread out over 1500% of the area of the 06 via the factory Gball as it comes to us.

All Categories


---------edit---------

One good thing about the 08 and 44 being 5-10 nm apart is they should cube combine without a wave plate.....anyone know what the loss is using a cube?

Should it in fact be a polarizing cube?
Click to expand...


They should cube combine without a waveplate anyway... PBS cubes only really care about polarization - obviously AR coatings and associated losses will vary, but that's not really relevant. You'd just need to rotate one 90 degrees from the other if you didn't want to use a waveplate. They'll line up better though if you use a waveplate, the wide axis will be on the same axis in that case so you'd get a = shape instead of a + shape.

You may be able to combine them using a dichro too though - so you could in theory combine two 08s and two 44s with two dichros and a PBS cube. That'd produce pretty good results I'd think.

There was a GB for such a dichro on PL recently.

Link: Dichro for mixing 445 + 462nm
 
Yes but would I use a polarized beam splitter cube or non polarizing?


I have never used a cube, I used a little square of dichroic glass at an angle to make a yellow beam out of green and red and as far as I know it was not polarized.
 
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I can't see the pictures from your test run Jordan.

??????
 
Hi RC,

The cube to combine has to be polarizing, non-polarizing cube is just a half-mirror, I already had this trouble before when trying to combine 2 44s. Without wveplate you can combine 2 single modes into a good round spot, but 2 multi modes will give + shaped spot which does not burn anything.
With waveplate, hovewer, it becomes like =, these lines can be adjusted into a combined - line and then corrected with cylindricals into a spot which burns. I think you know the theory, but I just tell how my experience was when making the 13W device.

So you say that from all Gballs-equipped blocks the 06 or 05 blocks have much better divergence than 08. Well, then I am going to try one of these (styropyro probably had 05s, if I am right 06 were not available at the time of the video) and once I want power I will keep to the idea of making an "artificial" block of 08s from a block of 44s with "lens plate" full of M9x0.5 collimators. In this way I have something to do for the year coming.


Hi Diachi,

Very interesting, I did not know that dichros separating 445 and 462nm exist, with one like that and 2 PBS cube/WP combinations I could combine beams from two 44s and two 07s and assemble a next generation 20W "contactless handdrill" blaster without need for any knife edging...
 
Light superglue said:
Hi RC,

The cube to combine has to be polarizing, non-polarizing cube is just a half-mirror, I already had this trouble before when trying to combine 2 44s. Without wveplate you can combine 2 single modes into a good round spot, but 2 multi modes will give + shaped spot which does not burn anything.
With waveplate, hovewer, it becomes like =, these lines can be adjusted into a combined - line and then corrected with cylindricals into a spot which burns. I think you know the theory, but I just tell how my experience was when making the 13W device.

So you say that from all Gballs-equipped blocks the 06 or 05 blocks have much better divergence than 08. Well, then I am going to try one of these (styropyro probably had 05s, if I am right 06 were not available at the time of the video) and once I want power I will keep to the idea of making an "artificial" block of 08s from a block of 44s with "lens plate" full of M9x0.5 collimators. In this way I have something to do for the year coming.


Hi Diachi,

Very interesting, I did not know that dichros separating 445 and 462nm exist, with one like that and 2 PBS cube/WP combinations I could combine beams from two 44s and two 07s and assemble a next generation 20W "contactless handdrill" blaster without need for any knife edging...
Click to expand...


Bet me to the answer for RC, thanks! :beer:

Yeah - those dichros are using custom coatings IIRC - hence the 90EUR price tag and the long wait on the GB - I imagine they'll do a second GB as it seems that one was fairly successful.
 
I think the problem is on your end, I see the pics just fine.

--------------------------------------------------------------------

My thought was to cube combine a 445nm NUBM44 and a 455nm NUBM08 and not have to use a 1/4 wave plate. Divergence is the same but the 10nm frequency difference should avoid wave fronts from cancelling out?
 
I'll try again when I get home tonight. Perhaps the firewall here @ work isn't letting me see the pics. I just wanna know the bottom line: what was the best power from this diode?
 
DTR shows 6.8 watts at 5.0 amps
................6.4 watts at 4.5 amps
................5.8 watts at 4.0 amps

Tested with a G2 lens.

---------edit--------

Yes I tested mine with a benchtop PS and it liked 4.0 amps, it started dimming back after 5.0 amps.
I run mine at 4.0 amps via SXD.
 
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Also keep in mind I did not show the drop @ 5A which is fast regardless of how well you sink the diode. 4A is where I am seeing these giving the most power and staying fairly stable.:beer:
 
I had my BBQ grill smoldering late last night as did my cookout party loving neighbor and there was a nice thick fog of smoke in the still air.

I fired a NUBM44 with a 3 element and my NUBM08 with a 3 element at the distant tree line and brighter color of the 08 was obvious.

Without comparing side by side it is not the standout that the NUBM07 is but the color shift is visible to the eye when compared side by side.

Sorry no pic as both my hands were full, besides my modest camera is not any good at showing the difference.
 
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