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New Toy :)

These are all auto, I would only buy quality manual lenses.
 
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The thing is, I don't think Ped is intending on spending hundreds of dollars on lenses.
 
Yeah your right.

I mean, sure it'd be good to take pictures upto Blord's standard, but I don't want to run before I can walk.

I want to learn the camera first, as he said, practice makes perfect. I will consider an expensive lens when I'm comfortable with the camera.

I need to buy batteries first as I'm going to be practice a lot.
 
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If you tell me what kind of photography you'll be doing and your budget I'll be able to find you a suitable lens.
 
What lenses do you have already and whats your budget/intended use?
 
Would you be fine with using a reverse ring for ultra macro's?
 
Sure I'd give it a go :)

EDIT

Ordered a reversing ring, 2 spare batt's @ a remote :)
 
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Haha sweet! I was about to link you to one on Amazon, I'm guessing that's what you bought :)

If you have 100 bucks to spare i'd certainly recommend a 50mm prime lens. You can't zoom these lenses in or out, but they account for it in sharpness which lets you crop pictures without any blurring. When compared to the kit lens at 50mm, the prime lens has an aperture of 1.8 instead of 5.6.

Benefits? Your camera needs much less light to take a picture. Therefore you get a sharper picture with less noise and blur. Great for macro's where you need all the light you can get and low light portraits etc.

http://www.amazon.com/Canon-50mm-1-8-Camera-Lens/dp/B00007E7JU

EDIT: Take a look at the customer pictures and see what you think :)
 
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Double post & bump.

From your guy's experience, what wavelength is hard to photograph?

EDIT

Close up of of a 405nm diode in its host (taken with cheapo macro lens)

2e1zz1v.jpg


Further edit..

My Beardy's eye..

33adsfb.jpg


My Cali King snake's head..

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My Rat snake's tounge..

9i4o3l.jpg
 
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There isnt much difference between wavelengths (even IR) as your camera still sees that even with the sensor filter. The problem is getting the correct colour ie the proper colour rendition. You can edit the colours (white balance) later in a program like lightroom or photoshop, well actually almost all photo editing software. A good idea is to try and get something neutral grey or 18 % grey in the pic that you can use later to correct the colour. The problem is that the camera gets confused with all the monochromatic light and attempts to correct it...;):beer:

Edit: Nice macros btw...:)

Edit 2: The 50 mm 1.8 prime is excellent value, but a cheaper plastic version of one of the lenses I recommended. Id personally spend a little extra and get the 1.4. Its a much better built and higher quality lens. The images with the 1.4 will be a tad better and sharper at 1.8 :)
 
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Very cool, Ped! I've always wanted a "real" camera that I could try different lenses on, just never had the cash to give it a go. Besides I'd want to do UV and IR photography, and I don't know enough go make proper purchases for such.
 
For scenery typically you want a standard lens (focal length of about ~50 to ~58 mm => field of view of ~40° to ~50°), plus a wide angle lens. I also like the very wide angle 'Fish Eye' lenses, but when you go that wide distortion is inevitable so yeah.

I would buy old manual lenses, they are good quality and pretty sturdy. Back in those days lenses were made by trial and error without all these computer ray tracing programs.

Most old standard lenses are variations of 'double gauss' formula and wide angles tend to be from the cooke triplet formula. They are pretty similar.
 
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