My Furst Custom laser 7W+ NUBM0E

[Borislav@87]

Blue 7W+ 460nm+ VS Green 2W 525nm
NUBM0E Blue 5.2A
NUGM04T Green 2.7A

 

[Borislav@87]

7W+ vs Green 2W

 

[Borislav@87]

Power test NUGM04T 2.7A with lens 3 element.
Hello. This is what my LPM meter shows. I think it's fairly accurate. NUGM04T at 2.7A delivers power over 2W. This is a test with a 3 Element lens. The force must be just as much with her
@RedCowboy

 

[Photon Master]

I’m a little obsessive with safety I guess. I put on my OD 6 goggles even when changing batteries on my lasers.

 

[daimajinbuu]

Crazy.

 

[Borislav@87]

I’m a little obsessive with safety I guess. I put on my OD 6 goggles even when changing batteries on my lasers.

I have glasses but I never wear them. I'm just very careful. Reflected light only blinds, nothing more

4pcs Blue 7W+ 460nm+ 1pc Green 2W 525nm

 

[Photon Master]

I bet that 2 watt green makes a beautiful beam

 

[Borislav@87]

I bet that 2 watt green makes a beautiful beam

Yes, it is much more visible than blue at long distances. But the blue one is a much better toy

 

[Borislav@87]

NUGM04T 2.7A
Test lens G2 = 2W

 

[Borislav@87]

I recorded a video to show the benefit of large copper heatsinks at power above 7W at room temperature. See how many degrees rise in 90 seconds of operation at max power
NUBM0E
5.2A

 

[Borislav@87]

 

[Borislav@87]

@RedCowboy

Hello. I want to make a NUBM0E laser diode to glow for a long time with this heatsink and fan. I want to use the same driver as in my lasers. My question is what 12V adapter should I buy to connect it to the driver. The driver will be set to 3.5/4А, because the goal is to light up for a long time.



AC 110-240V DC 5V 6V 8V 9V 10V 12V 15V 0.5A 1A 2A 3A Universal Power Adapter Supply Charger adaptor Eu Us for LED light strips

https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0sW7qS

Driver specification
Laser Diode LD Driver Board PCB 4.5A for 3.5W NDB7A75 3 Modes High Low Strobe
Specification:
Input Voltage: 5.8-12V
Circuit control: 5V circuit, constant current output
Dimensions: 12 * 22mm (W * L)
Reverse polarity protection: a unique reverse polarity protection design, no need to worry about the battery discharge burning plate
Pin definition: 445nm driver board designed specifically for the pad. You only need to weld it according to the foot a triangular arrangement
Polarity definition: module housing is positive,trailing bonding pad is negative

Detail:
This Laser Diode Driver PCB 4.5A Constant Current can be used to drive 3.5W NDB7A75
This is a 4.5 Amp laser diode driver with 3 modes, high, low, and strobe. It has an input voltage of about 8 to 12 volts. Most people will use 2 Lithium ion IMR or INR batteries at 8.4 volts. It is a buck driver with reverse polarity protection. It does not require a heat sink.

Package:
1 x Laser Diode LD Driver Board PCB 4.5A for 3.5W NDB7A75 3 Modes High Low Strobes

 

[RedCowboy]

I haven't used this one yet but expect it should work well enough and you can modulate it later if you choose to do so.

NEW 5A Laser Diode Constant Current Driver - 1-5W Engraving - TTL - 12V - Fan | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for NEW 5A Laser Diode Constant Current Driver - 1-5W Engraving - TTL - 12V - Fan at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

12V 3A AC/DC Adapter (wall wart) Power Supply for Home Electronics with 5.5x2.1m | eBay

It converts from a 100-240 VAC power sources to 12 VDC power with maximum current draw of 5A. The power LED on adapter will light when AC power is applied. 1 x 12V 3A AC Power Adapter. 1 x DC Female Connector.

www.ebay.com

 

[Borislav@87]

@RedCowboy
So choose the 12V 3A option, right? I plan to connect the fan that works with 12V to it. I guess it won't be a problem. The goal is to light for a long time at 3.5-4A.

 

[RedCowboy]

Yes input of 12V @ 3A will step down to 4.6V @ 5A just fine, 36W input for only 23W out is no problem, the driver would only use about 2A worth of the available 3, that said a 12V 1.5A wall-wart wouldn't be enough.

That small fan shouldn't be a problem.

That housing in your image may or may not move heat very well, I've had some that aren't worth a dam.

 

[Borislav@87]

Thanks. I ordered the 12/3A variant. Regarding the cooling, I will judge when I put everything together. If necessary, I will mount the body on another aluminum radiator with thermal paste between them. Or else I will install an additional copper radiator. I have ideas, but I'll judge that on the spot by turning it on and seeing what temperature it gets