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My Furst Custom laser 7W+ NUBM0E

I just received my 2nd NUBM0E and it tests almost identical to a NUBM44-V2 doing 7.5W @ 4.5A and pushing to 5A did not result in any additional output, so again 4.5A is FULL OVERDRIVE

The color is nicer, looks more like 455nm than the 445nm of the nubm44......much prettier blue, the divergence appears to be identical to nubm44 same as my 1st NUBM0E.

Test lens is a DTR G2

Note: Just because a Chinese seller says you are getting an ABC diode, doesn't guarantee that's what you'll really receive.

Another note is my NUBM0E diode arrived virgin, clean pins and clean back plate which is a plus. Link below.

 
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I just received my 2nd NUBM0E and it tests almost identical to a NUBM44-V2 doing 7.5W @ 4.5A and pushing to 5A did not result in any additional output, so again 4.5A is FULL OVERDRIVE

The color is nicer, looks more like 455nm than the 445nm of the nubm44......much prettier blue, the divergence appears to be identical to nubm44 same as my 1st NUBM0E.

Test lens is a DTR G2

Note: Just because a Chinese seller says you are getting an ABC diode, doesn't guarantee that's what you'll really receive.

Another note is my NUBM0E diode arrived virgin, clean pins and clean back plate which is a plus. Link below.

I'm glad that you finally convinced yourself that NUBM0E is not inferior to NUBM44 in any way. It even surpasses it in price and color of blue. I buy the diodes from the same place. I had two of the same protected ones, and I say again that if you had chosen an unprotected diode, it gives off more power than the protected one. Yes, his life may be much shorter, but his power is higher. All NUBM0E diodes that I have purchased so far have been brand new. But definitely protected is a very good choice if you are looking for a long life. I rarely use lasers and hope my unprotected ones last a long time. I have sealed everything with rubber rings and it is impossible for anything to get inside, but it will show in time.
 
This is only my 2nd NUBM0E so it's a small test group, maybe I will order one with the GBall ( integrated can + lens ) and remove the can just to test it and see, but I much prefer spending my money on the window can diodes that will last.

It's entirely possible that they sent me a re-canned diode that wasn't really an 0E the 1st time, maybe a NUBM46, there are many different designations, that said I know the NUBM42 and NUBM49 are not as strong and actually have worse divergence than the NUBM44, NUBM08, NUBM0E, NUBM0A . All the 44, 08, 0E, 0A appear to be comparable in power and divergence but the 44 is a 445nm, 08 is 450nm and 0E, 0A might be 455nm IINM

The nubm07 and NUBM0C are both 465nm which is very much more sky blue and appear even brighter per watt to our eyes.

There really is no guarantee but with nubm08's, I would run them de-canned in a big heat sink torch for maybe 5-10 minutes a day, until about 2 months and all the time I thought they were doing just fine until, BLIP and suddenly weak output, often it happens right when you turn it on ( power up ) so a basic estimate is 5 - 10 hours of total runtime which is sad for a 20,000 hour MTTF diode.
 
Man I skimmed through most of this thread and laughed most of the way through. Especially when someone "knows what they're talking about" and everyone is telling them different and then boom... Huge suprise at the loss of output on a de-can after a very short time. Likely not just from the massive 6A overdrive, but also from microparticulates due to no clean room during assembly, no backfill with inert gas, and just open air. Believes every bit of his results with his incorrectly used $5 lpm that can have nonlinear inaccurate results (theres a reason its $5 and not $300+) Also the 9+ watt output and 50%+ increase in power from decanning 😂🤦 Man acts as if hes not talking to people that have done this everyday for years with extensive testing and research.
 
New Body + Copper radiator
7W +
5.2А
Laser diode NUBM0E
 

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That's a nice looking unit, good hefty copper heat sink. (y)
I see you used a couple of O-rings to hold your focus, something I like to do is drill through and tap the little thumb wheels to use as locks.
Then after I lock in a perfect infinity focus I use a 2nd thumb wheel to dress the end.
 

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Yes, I use rubber rings for stability and keep moisture out. With a focused beam of long, the rings are tight and there is no chance of moisture or anything getting inside
 

Have you used this diode yet ?

Nevermind the numbers on the spec sheet, they don't represent the over-clock fold-back point.

I haven't used it. I've only been using the NUBM0E since I started because I like the blue color and it has excellent power for the price. And I had bought one NUBM44, but it sold almost as soon as I assembled the laser.
In the future, I will probably make a green one for myself, because I have never made a green one before. I'll use the same driver, adding resistors to drop the amperage from 4.5A to about 2A
 

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Quick side question about the Peltier LPM, have you taken temperature readings while testing?
If I recall correctly heating one side causes the other side to cool. I would think the laser beam would definitely heat it.

There was a project I was thinking about a few years ago involving a Peltier and seeing your videos of your home made LPM reminded me of it. Although beyond being a project I don't recall specifics... :ROFLMAO:
 
Quick side question about the Peltier LPM, have you taken temperature readings while testing?
If I recall correctly heating one side causes the other side to cool. I would think the laser beam would definitely heat it.

There was a project I was thinking about a few years ago involving a Peltier and seeing your videos of your home made LPM reminded me of it. Although beyond being a project I don't recall specifics... :ROFLMAO:
I'm not a measurer. It's not actually my project, I saw it on YouTube. I can't tell what deviations it gives, but at least I can see which laser is more powerful, because the same diodes put out different power
 
I'm not a measurer. It's not actually my project, I saw it on YouTube. I can't tell what deviations it gives, but at least I can see which laser is more powerful, because the same diodes put out different power

Well, actually you are a measurer when you're measuring your laser strength! ;)
If you think of it, maybe when you use it again you can check to see if the side you point the laser on is hot and the opposite side cold.
I will look for this video, Peltier devices are interesting.

Edit: Disregard, I found a video and he shows a heatsink on the cold side. Of course the side you lase has to heat up due to the nature of this device, thus generating electricity to allow measuring output and reading laser output.
I wish I could find a video comparing Peltier LPM to commercial LPM to see accuracy difference.

 
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Well, actually you are a measurer when you're measuring your laser strength! ;)
If you think of it, maybe when you use it again you can check to see if the side you point the laser on is hot and the opposite side cold.
I will look for this video, Peltier devices are interesting.

Edit: Disregard, I found a video and he shows a heatsink on the cold side. Of course the side you lase has to heat up due to the nature of this device, thus generating electricity to allow measuring output and reading laser output.
I wish I could find a video comparing Peltier LPM to commercial LPM to see accuracy difference.

Yes, that's the video I got the idea from. I can't check if the back side is cold because it's glued with copper heatsink thermal paste
 
The max amperage in the peltier cell affects the millivolt reading I've tested 1,2,6,8,10Amp cells.
The lower the Amp = higher the reading.
The higher the Amp = lower the reading.
From my testing it seems that 6Amp cells give the more accurate readings for lasers between 1w~5w(limited by my collection).
 
I decided to make a green laser with a diode 1.6W~NUGM04T. I plan to use it at 2.5-2.8A, and at 2.8A it gives about 2W of power. I was torn between the NUGM03T AND the NUGM04T. I decided to take the powerful one
 

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