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FrozenGate by Avery

Multiline Argon laser cheap! Michican, USA






It may be the original plug in the unit and he just snipped the wires or something.
 
Well I don't think he's done anything to the wires other than unplug them from the rest of the sequencer, so that should be how the wires were when the sequencer was put together
 
Hahaha, you gotta stop worrying man! There's nothing special you have to do with the plug. Here's my EXTREMELY temporary solution :P
 

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Haha seems like there's zero chance of exposure to electricity in your setup :p
 
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hwang21 said:
Well I don't think he's done anything to the wires other than unplug them from the rest of the sequencer, so that should be how the wires were when the sequencer was put together
Click to expand...

The wiring harness from the sequencer includes the discharge on jumper, you still need to add another jumper to enable the knob on the power supply to be able to adjust the power output.

It's best to keep the plug that comes with the sequencer since the plastic shell prevents wires from slipping and accidentally touching unwanted contacts.
 
hwang21 said:
Haha seems like there's zero chance of exposure to electricity in your setup :p
Click to expand...

lol you should see me plugging the thing in..like a cat around water. scared to death to come within 5 feet of the jank plug :crackup:
 
hwang21 said:
Jumper plug? Not an expert with Argons (yet)... and doesn't the Argon use quite a bit of current? I'd need a thicker cable than just any everyday wall outlet wires, right?
Click to expand...

If you're talking about the power cable I would strongly suggest using 14AWG or even 12AWG which are rated for 15A and 20A respectively. My JDSU PSU has the PC power supply type power in jack and I made the mistake of grabbing an 18AWG (10A) instead of the usual 16AWG (13A) cable and it was limp as a wet noodle after running it at ~7-8A for not very long. I've since replaced it with a heavy duty 14AWG cable that barely gets warm even at full power.

FWIW at idle mine draws 6.5A and at full power it draws 12.5A from the wall. My guess is yours would be similar. If you splice on a new cord make sure you have wire nuts rated for the gauge of wiring you're using. I'm not trying to scare you or "be that guy" but with the current even these small argons can draw you have to use right stuff or it could melt and start a fire.
 
Just thought take the time to post this here. I took these photos as a joke really but it might be beneficial to you guys who never owned an argon before.

Running my JDSU box style that I got out a 373A sequencer on full power "Light mode" produce these results. Yes, these things draw lots of juice so you should be using at least 14 gauge wire at least. I'm using a 14 gauge orange extension cord and it gets a little warm and soft. So I wouldn't suggest anything less.

Watts: http://i.imgur.com/6r9DNcS.jpg
Amps: http://i.imgur.com/66NhWjy.jpg
 
What about two 18AWG wires in parallel? I don't have any <16AWG wire on hand at the moment... and I think my seller isn't quite willing to snip the power cord off of the sequencer
 
LtKernelPanic said:
14AWG or even 12AWG which are rated for 15A and 20A respectively.
Click to expand...

Yeah, for house wiring where the distance between the breaker and outlet can be 100 feet or more. For a 6 foot power cord, 18AWG is fine. It only drops ~0.8V at 10A which is <0.7% of your line voltage. Copper doesn't care how hot it gets - as long as the insulation doesn't melt. There's no need for that much copper. I've used 18awg on my argon for years.

Go look at your vacuum cleaner if you think I'm making this up. Mine has a 12A motor and a 30-foot cord. The copper is only 17awg.
 
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It might work but I wouldn't personally. I'd just go to Lowe's or whatever similar store in your area and get some 14AWG cable and if needed a plug. When it comes to mains power the last thing you want is an overload cable.
 
So a computer charger cord (18AWG) should be fine for this? I'd need to splice it to be able to plug it into my wall outlet... can I just use winding the wires together+solder+electrical tape?

EDIT: TR-20 doesn't seem to be a popular type of socket... :thinking: do you think Lowe's or Home Depot or Sears or something has a TR-20 to NEMA-15/20 converter?
 
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I don't think so. I have to leave for a dentist appointment but I'll poke around when I get back.
 
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