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FrozenGate by Avery

More problems with bdr-209

Joined
Jun 26, 2015
Messages
177
Points
28
I just received my new bdr-209 in the aixiz module and fired it up. I am using a survival lasers 600ma driver, two 3.7v lithium ion batteries, and a 405-445 G2 lens. There is no beam or heat, and the dot will not focus properly. I do not know what is wrong. :banghead:
 





Your diode is dead. Also known as a now expensive inefficient LED. If you asked for the driver to be preset to 600mah then it's survival lasers fault. If not then you pumped the diode with possibly 1.25 amps.
 
i remember 405 usually use a boost driver. which means 1 battery. to be sure check the driver amperage with a multimeter.
 
Any driver will work if set to within the right current range, 600mA is about the maximum safe current. The reason a boost driver is usually used is simply a battery life issue, to draw 600mA of current that diode needs about 6.5V, so your batteries need to be fully charged and then they can only drain a little before the driver will drop out of regulation and you get a power drop, you actually can get better run time with a boost driver even though your only using one battery instead of two. Anyway there's nothing wrong with using a Survival Laser driver. Make sure your batteries are fully charged to 4.2V and I hope you didn't put them in backwards and turn it on as that will usually kill your driver.

Alan
 
Thanks to everyone who replied. The driver is preset to 600ma and I checked the lens both ways. I am using two batteries that only go up to 3.7v each. Should I use 4.2v batteries? I also tested another driver that is constant current and was preset to 350ma from anomalytech on ebay, and I have the same problem.
 
Thanks to everyone who replied. The driver is preset to 600ma and I checked the lens both ways. I am using two batteries that only go up to 3.7v each. Should I use 4.2v batteries? I also tested another driver that is constant current and was preset to 350ma from anomalytech on ebay, and I have the same problem.

The batteries are labeled 3.7V but when fully charged they all charge to 4.2V but the voltage drops when under load, you are using the correct batteries.

Alan
 
You may also be using 3.2V batteries that might fully charge to 3.7V but I doubt it and they would still work.
Do the batteries have 3.7V printed on the side of them?
Did you actually fully charge them (to 4.2V) before use as it is VERY doubtful they came fully charged.
Did you measure their voltage with an MTM (multimeter)?
Verified you soldered to the correct diode pins and correct board points?
Are the batteries actually connected to each other as in sometimes you need a spacer such as a small magnet between where the + and - are supposed to touch each other or else they won't make contact.
Is it built into a host or not? A very common issue is the clicky (on/off switch) on the host failing so you have to check with a MTM the resistance across the switch and verify it is actually closing.
Are you sure the host is conducting all the way through and to the module/driver if required?

We need clear pictures of things and some of these tests done otherwise I/we would just come up with a lot more questions than answers. We want to help you figure it out but there's just too many variables.
I will say that most situations like this the ending isn't good but there has also been plenty of surprising wins too;) I've blown plenty of diodes and a few drivers in my time here from pushing diodes too hard and making really dumb mistakes in a moment of letting my mind wander away from a build.
By the way, I never put a build completely together in a host without first making sure it works without the host. It helps to cut down the troubleshooting time in case it doesn't fire up once it's all together.
 
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if you have some kind of multi-meter... did you tried to measure the current your driver sucks out of the batteries?

As your LD doesn't get hot etc. I hardly believe it is dead. May be wrong or dead driver not capable to provide enough voltage for your diode. These Blue Ray diodes require 5V and more volts.

You may also build a dummy load with some cheap diodes like 1N4007 (put 7 or 8 in series) and measure the current circulating between dummy load and driver (and if you still don’t have a multi meter go to your next local store and get one!!!)

mo
 
Good suggestion mojo but he may not know how to do that, just remove the tailcap and set your DMM to measure current and touch the leads of the DMM to the battery and to the threads on the host, the laser will come on and you can see how much current it's drawing from the batteries.

Also this specific diode requires an unusually high voltage, it will barely lase at 5V, as I said above, for 600mA the driver will need to be able to apply about 6.5V to the diode, that means you need a little more than that from the batteries.

I am guessing this is using one of the round SL drivers and is built into one of the SL hosts is that correct?

Alan
 
I have two multi meters but I didn't test the diode draw from the batteries because I want to test one thing at a time. First I want to charge the batteries to 4.2v and see if that works. Here are pictures of my components and setup. I have not decided on the host yet.
 

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hmm the batteries seem suspicious.... if your batteries won't work after full charge then buy quality batteries from survival laser. their brand is AW.... i have come across many thread like this and the problem most likely is the battery...
 





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