Mitsubishi ML520G71 638nm 500mW Titanium Ice build

[AUS]

Here is the last of my "Weekend Builds".

This uses a Mitsubishi ML520G71 638nm 300mW diode running at 500mW output in a Titanium Ice host purchased from Mrcrouse here http://laserpointerforums.com/f39/closed-77014.html

I used a 5-mode AMC7135 driver from eBay

I agonized over how much current to feed it seeing as I had already killed a 500mW version of these once and decided to remove one of the three AMC7135's to give it 700mA. This produces 525mW with a 650-G2 lens.

This thing is stupidly bright, the beam is visible in natural light and it burns things almost as far away as my 1.8W 445nm laser does.

Enjoy:

Excuse the laundry all over the lounge room!!!

 

[Blord]

I see you have been busy with the builds. The Mitsubishi ML520G71 638nm 500mW diode is a very forgiving diode. It survives drivers output of 2A !! But 700mA is still nice and the temperature is lower. That makes the color even more better.

Good build !

 

[AUS]

Thanks for the kind words!

This is actually the ML520G71 300mW rated diode, not the ML520P73 500mW diode.

While the 500mW version can handle 2A or so I have heard of the 300mW ones failing at under an amp.

 

[jander6442]

Nice build, messy place your still getting rep though:beer:

I'm doing the 500mW diode in a build right now... taking my sweet time for sure after reading up and down the boards I'm in a sweat thinking you pooped one out at 700mA. I'm running a 300mW Mit. with a groove 2 wide open right now.

I have it in a mag with a very deep sink. I'm VERY VERY hard on that diode:evil: around 710mA drops to a stable 670mA. I like it, not my fav but I like it.:beer:

 

[Blord]

My mistake, I read it wrong. The 300mW version can't run that high.

 

[Fiddy]

Looking good man!

 

[luccax]

What exactly did you do to make the driver output 700mA? Removed one of that small black cubes that in my electronic's ignorance are called AMC7135?

 

[Fiddy]

What exactly did you do to make the driver output 700mA? Removed one of that small black cubes that in my electronic's ignorance are called AMC7135?

each AMC7135 regulator chip adds 350mA when paralleled.

 

[luccax]

Thanks a lot dude, exactly what I needed to know.

 

[Fiddy]

no wukkas

 

[IsaacT]

That is a really great looking build!!!! +rep :beer:

Got any advice for building inside this host? I bought the last kit from Mrcrouse and I have been worried about making everything fit lol. This will be my very first handheld build and I plan to source the parts from DTR. If you have any advice, please PM me for sure!

Thanks,
Isaac

 

[AUS]

That is a really great looking build!!!! +rep :beer:

Got any advice for building inside this host? I bought the last kit from Mrcrouse and I have been worried about making everything fit lol. This will be my very first handheld build and I plan to source the parts from DTR. If you have any advice, please PM me for sure!

Thanks,
Isaac

Depends on what type of driver you are using. The (usually 16mm) round ones incorporating the battery terminals are generally easier easier to use as the host was designed for this. I will assume this is what you have.

Generally its easier to do things in roughly this order:

1) Press the diode into the module.

2) Solder wires onto the driver long enough to reach the diode and then some.

3) Set the current on the driver and

3) Fit the driver into the "pill" of the host & run the wires through the holes. You may have to file a bit off the outside of the driver PCB. Sometimes a vice is needed to press it in properly, but you dont want it so tight that you have to damage it to remove it. Depening on the batteries you have you may want to put a dob of solder in the middle (+) contact (if the battery doesn't have a (+) terminal that sticks a long way out).

4) If you are using a diode thats case negative with a driver that has a continuious negagative (ie the battery negative terminal is directly connected to the diode negative) then you dont need to make sure the putside ring of the battery terminal is connected electrically to the pill.

If you have a diode that isn't case negative you have to make sure the negative ring on the driver board is properly electrically connected to the pill. If the pill is brass you can solder it. if its aluminium it can take some skill to connect it!

5) Screw the pill into the host body.

6) Cut the wires to length, strip them, put heatshrink over them (pulled all the way back to the pill so it wont shrink when you solder the wires). Solder the wires to the diode (making sure the polatity & pinout are right!) and heat shrink them.

7) Put the module into the heatsink as far as you want it and tighten the grub screw.

8) Assemble the top of the host being carefull not to let the heat sink twist enough that it snaps the wires off.

 

[IsaacT]

I don't really even know what to say...I did not expect such an awesome response from that!!!! Thank you VERY much!!!

 

[IsaacT]

Did you have any issues with space in your Titanium Ice build? I had to literally dremel open the pill so there was no metal piece between the diode/driver and the 17mm PCB board. The driver I had to remove leads and solder directly to the diode, and even then there wasn't enough space...my copper module(only the front portion) is jutting out a bit from the front heatsink simply because all of it won't fit...

Just wondering if I am the only one. Also, I used an X-Drive if that helps.

Thanks,
Isaac

 

[AUS]

Depends on the size of the driver and the pill. I prefer round drivers because they fit in the pill, or micro size square ones that fit in the pill.