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mini RC helicopters

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elite ares

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I replaced tail rotor blade with a bit larger one.

Ahhh, that makes sense. More tail thrust gives more main rotor tilt. How much larger is the tail rotor? I have a spare from a S032 I could try. :evil:
 

ped

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Those are some good mods, i'll try them..

@Ashersz.....good find...that seems good.
 

ReNNo

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Ahhh, that makes sense. More tail thrust gives more main rotor tilt. How much larger is the tail rotor? I have a spare from a S032 I could try. :evil:

It is not even noticeable, but looks like better quality and maybe a bit thicker.
S032....no way :D
 

ped

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ok tried the mods and WOW!

Without the balance bar weight you get a lot more TBE , i couldnt do the twin rotor tail thruster, after shliding one prop down, the wasnt enough "poking out" the top to fit another prop :(
 
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piferal

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This it is my great and heavy helicopter :crackup:

4 channels, receiver 2.4GHz with gyroscope, Very manageable.

28 grams (0.987670 oz) with the battery.

img7204v.jpg


 

elite ares

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Here is a video of my Blade 120 SR flying in my garage.



5183-blade-120-sr.jpg

Blade 120 SR

5182-heli-family.jpg

My growing helicopter collection - darn you guys! :eg:
 
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elite ares

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If you want to learn 4 ch and fly outside I would suggest a
Lama 400D...
It comes with a 2.4GHz transmitter with LCD and has 485mm dia.
coaxial blades.. it is very STABLE once properly trimmed... It also
has a head lock gyro...

WALKERA LAMA 400D (RED) With WK2402 RTF (1-PACK) Metal Version & Battery & Charger

Once you get proficient with that Heli you could go to a Flybarless
type Heli with 3 Gyros...


Jerry

Jerry,

All very good advice. Your link to Walkera Direct has some very good prices. Now that I have some 4 channel flight time under my belt with the Blade 120 SR, I am moving up to a flybarless fixed pitch. I have chosen to go with this 2.4Ghz Walkera V200DQ01 Flybarless 4 Channel RTF R/C Helicopter w/ LED Lights & Metal Rotor Head. :drool: The lighting kit pre-installed in this bird is fabulous! The main drawbacks I see with this kit is the brushed motor and the way the tail rotor is driven. I believe everyone here understands what it means to show off the pretty lights. :D

 

v33

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elite ares, I've got the 120SR as well, great heli for indoors and light wind. Do you find that the tail rotor sometimes becomes unresponsive or stuck after a few minutes of flight?
 

lasersbee

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Jerry,

All very good advice. Your link to Walkera Direct has some very good prices. Now that I have some 4 channel flight time under my belt with the Blade 120 SR, I am moving up to a flybarless fixed pitch. I have chosen to go with this 2.4Ghz Walkera V200DQ01 Flybarless 4 Channel RTF R/C Helicopter w/ LED Lights & Metal Rotor Head. :drool: The lighting kit pre-installed in this bird is fabulous! The main drawbacks I see with this kit is the brushed motor and the way the tail rotor is driven. I believe everyone here understands what it means to show off the pretty lights. :D

That Heli looks nice... show us some video of you flying it
when you can...
Be careful when/if you fly it at night... your neighbors may
report UFOs....:crackup:

I made my first mistake with my Lama 400D yesterday..
After shutting down the shop I decided to fly my Heli
outside. The wind was low (maybe 5-7mph)... I took off
about 20 feet away from my garage and at an altitude of
about 15 feet and the wind pushed the 400D towards the
Garage roof... I gave it full forward but it still insisted to
say hello to my garage... I cut power a bit... (a bit too
much) and need to change the landing gear...

Unless it is completely windless I'll keep my 400D for indoor
flying...


Jerry
 
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elite ares

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elite ares, I've got the 120SR as well, great heli for indoors and light wind. Do you find that the tail rotor sometimes becomes unresponsive or stuck after a few minutes of flight?

@v33

So far the brushed tail motor has been pretty good, even after more than 40 flights and several hard crashes. It is very important to keep that little thrust bearing in place on the shaft between the rotor blade and motor end to prevent blowing out the other end of the motor. One method to keep it there is to drill a tiny hole in the plastic bearing housing and thread a tether through it and tie it to the motor cage. Something that I've done that I think has helped prevent damage is to put some heatshrink over the fine motor leads and motor end cap to offer some padding. Don't cover too much of the motor, it needs to be able to cool. Check out RCGroups.com for some good info.
5349-heatshrinked-tail-rotor-motor.jpg


@lasersbee

I've found that co-axials tend to 'sail away' outside so I don't fly them outside anymore. Only when it's dead calm will I take out the Chinook (once so far). Then it's a hoot to fly outdoors. The vast majority of my flying time is done inside my three car garage or in my shop at work during breaks. I'll try to get some video posted of the new Walkera V200DQ01 when I get it.

My friend bought the PhoenixRC v3 sim software and let me play with it some. You can select a night scene and laser dogfight against the computer. It's pretty cool seeing the green beam extending from the nose of yourcraft...except it stops abruptly like a light sabre. Now, if I could only get my helis to lift a 1+ Watt plus battery..... LOL. Naaa. I really wouldn't do that! Would I? :thinking:
 

v33

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I might have to do that tail rotor mod, I think the wires are loose. Been thinking of selling off my small helis to fund laser stuff :)
 




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