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Microboost vs Flexdrive connections

oic0

oic0

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Jun 15, 2010
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I keep reading that something is different between the two but I just can't bring my electrically challenged mind to grasp it. At current I have the + from my flex going to the positive on diode, neg to the negative. Third pin unused. On the battery side positive goes to positive lead, negative grounds to the case which is the negative for the battery. Makes sense to me, all works fine. If I switch to a microboost driver what exactly has to change?

Also, does length of wire leading up to the diode matter? When I switch to this new driver I'm going to solder directly on to the board, my current setup has leads though and I keep on wondering why its sort of on the weak side. I thought it was the chipped big thing on the driver or me messing with the pot to much, but do lead wires have an affect?
 





I'm pretty sure the microboost shouldn't be case grounded in either + or - but you can just wrap a layer of e-tape around it.
Sometimes if you use lead wires that are too small they can heat up with high currents, thats a pretty positive indication the board isn't getting the current that it wants. a direct connection would eliminate that ;)
*edit - The microflex is supposed to be more efficient, I'd stick with that if I were in your position XP
 
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The flexdrive has a constant negative. You can simply tie the case pin to the negative pin and get ground that way.

The microboost does NOT have a constant negative. If you connect the case pin to the negative pin, you will have effectively bypassed the driver!

In order to use the case/host/body as the negative path with the microboost, you have to connect the case pin to the negative battery supply pad

Peace,
dave
 
For those that are interested I am putting together a book with all the most common LD specs and drivers and mods in one nice package. I should have it completed in the next day or two. Input will be welcome.
 
Scross1220 said:
Folks
I wanted to help folks out by updating the MicroBoost manual to incorporate the changes for the 1200mA setting. I am sure Dr. Lava is in the works of doing so but I though I would lend a hand. The linke for the new manual is below.

http://www.weatherscience.net/Manuals/Micro_Boost_Drive_V1_Manual_R2.pdf
Click to expand...

By saying that you "are sure" are you saying that you have actually talked to drlava and gotten his permission to do this?

It is his property.

Peace,
dave
 
I did not talk to him. I was not trying to violate any copyrights I was simply taking the changes that he posted a few days ago and adding it to his manual thats all. All I wanted to do was help a little
 
Dave
I sent him a PM. If you feel better about pulling the thread than thats ok with me. I don't want to do anything wrong.

Thanks
Steven
 
Scross1220 said:
Dave
I sent him a PM. If you feel better about pulling the thread than thats ok with me. I don't want to do anything wrong.

Thanks
Steven
Click to expand...

The pic's are out there. It is no secret.
It is just that intellectual property is a bit of a sore spot.
It is better to get his permission to change his manual ;)
You may want to simply "hide" it until you hear from him.

Peace,
dave
 
Scross1220 said:
For those that are interested I am putting together a book with all the most common LD specs and drivers and mods in one nice package. I should have it completed in the next day or two. Input will be welcome.
Click to expand...

When you get this document completed, and all permissions that are needed, then you should probably post it in the, "Driver Compliation Thread". Just in case you were not aware of it.

M
:)
 
Morgan said:
When you get this document completed, and all permissions that are needed, then you should probably post it in the, "Driver Compliation Thread". Just in case you were not aware of it.

M
:)
Click to expand...

I will do that. I am in the process of getting aproval from everyone. Still learning as i go along
 
Ok not dumbed down into retard speak for me quite enough yet. I am currently wired like this.
Will boost work like this too or do I need to insulate the copper heatsink the diode sits in from the body?
This is my first foray into circuits. I learned to solder putting this thing together. I'm almost scared to try taking apart for fear that whatever magic is making it work will be broken.
307us95.jpg
[/IMG]

Lazily enough, the wire running to the diode actually has a joint in it. It is pretty heavy wire though. Doubt it offers much resistance. Thats why I had to make the joint, it flat out woudn't bend a 180 in that tight of a space. Its actually a lead from a spare multimeter probe I had.
 
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chipdouglas said:
isn't the flexdrive a buck/boost. and the microboost only a boost type?

michael
Click to expand...

Correct and...

oic0 said:
Ok not dumbed down into retard speak for me quite enough yet. I am currently wired like this.
Will boost work like this too or do I need to insulate the copper heatsink the diode sits in from the body?
This is my first foray into circuits. I learned to solder putting this thing together. I'm almost scared to try taking apart for fear that whatever magic is making it work will be broken.
307us95.jpg
[/IMG]

Lazily enough, the wire running to the diode actually has a joint in it. It is pretty heavy wire though. Doubt it offers much resistance. Thats why I had to make the joint, it flat out woudn't bend a 180 in that tight of a space. Its actually a lead from a spare multimeter probe I had.
Click to expand...

Correct... Assuming that's a floating case diode, (BR or 445), it is already electrically isolated from the case so no need to isolate the module and, assuming that's a Microboost driver. You can do it another way so check out the links below -

http://laserpointerforums.com/f65/correct-wiring-445nm-microboost-53034.html

http://laserpointerforums.com/f67/microboost-problem-54064.html#post761293

M
:)
 
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