Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

Micro-Drive laser driver by rkcstr






Re: Micro-Driver laser driver *NOW ADJUSTABLE*

Nope, for CW use.

And, it's not necessary to post here and PM me for the same thing.
 
I'm sorry, I do not offer preset current on my drivers.

With some basic tools (that you should already have) it is not difficult, however. There are a number of methods I outline in my instructions. I would suggest method #2, measuring voltage across a load, which would be the method utilized by using the Test Load I sell, but you can make your own with simply a resistor.

I suggest ALL persons building their own lasers should know how to do this.
 
Since it is a linear driver, can't you just measure the current through the output pads while connected to a PS? I use my multimeter for adjusting DDL drivers and it's fine.
 
rockz, yes you can. you didn't type it but just to be clear, move your lead plug to the ma or a socket. then set your meter to the 200ma or the 2a setting.

michael
 
So, trying to clear some clutter off my desk:

DSC_0894.jpg


25 drivers that were not fit for retail. Use 'em for parts, repair them, use them as they are, whatever! $125 shipped in the US, $135 outside of the US via Priority Mail International. That's only $5 shipped each! The few that are missing components will have extras sent along.
 
Last edited:
Well, I'll be... you guys posted right as I was, haha.

But, yes, current can be measured directly. That's method #1 in my instructions, actually. Limitations are that most cheap meters only measure up to about 200mA, may not be entirely accurate and its common to blow fuses in them, which ends up reading "0mA" and people think their driver is malfunctioning!

Also, having an open circuit on a constant-current isn't great. Linear drivers are not too affected, from what I can tell, but a more sensitive circuit, like the boost circuits, may be damaged by this. Doing this is very easy if you're just holding meter probes on the pads since one small move may break the connection.
 
Last edited:
^^^ditto about needing a good meter..... most "good" meters will have a 200m and 2a setting. but the ma and the a setting usually require you move the test lead to a different prong hole.

michael
 
And, if you have a meter with only 2 decimal places (the small red ones), you're only going to get resoluation of 10mA on the high current setting. That means your readings may be +-30mA or more. Not entirely useable in my opinion.
 
ooo =/ can anyone recommend me a good multimeter. the one i have is a $2 from harbor freight kind.
 
Most people will say Fluke is the best. They're expensive, though.

Sears (Craftsman brand) and Radioshack may have some decent meters to look at. Personally, I have an Extech meter I bought at Radioshack, which is pretty nice but I don't think they carry anymore (was ~$90, but got it for $40 on clearance). My most recent and now primary meter is a Greenlee DM-820, which I really like! My favorite feature is a low-ohm mode which can measure down to the hundreth and do so pretty accurately. Retail price is about $190, but I picked one up on Ebay for about $60!

Anyway, you'll probably spend $30-50 for a half-way decent meter. The cheapies serve their purpose, but a good meter is always nice to have.
 
I just realized an error on my site and I apologize to those of you who may have wanted to purchase a driver but were confused to find them more expensive than you thought. I accidentally updated the wrong item when they sold out, which happened to be my old driver. I just found the error and have fixed it.


ALSO! For tomorrow only, AKA Cyber Monday, get 20% off of your order (extra 10% vs original LPF discount) by entering the code CYBERMON.

Thanks guys!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.





Back
Top