Looking to improve a concept.

[icecruncher]

I am looking to build an aluminum raygun mockup. Something similar to these:

http://www.rayguns-r-us.com/
http://www.joeblowglassworks.com/12.html
http://www.wetanz.com/holics/index.php?itemid=20&catid=4

These are the best on the web, AFAIK.

However I would like to use a blu-ray in the unit (200mw+) and have the unit encased in a locked glass display.

I'm considering putting this over the case.

http://www.cafepress.com/bws01.8149721

That being said. i have concepts I'm working on.

First I have plan on using a borosilicate uranium glass tube for the barrel covered with another slotted metal tube so that the glass is visible through the outer tube.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Uranium-Glass-B...ms=66:2|65:1|39:1|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50

Second, I would like control on the unit besides a trigger for power setting.
This can be accomplished with a Drlava driver as per a note from him.

"Is it possible to set the max load on your flexdriver and then add a potentiometer that would limit it from the max load down to 0 mw? *if so, is it just a matter of soldering the pot inline with the diode or what would be necessary?

I'm working on a project where I want to have an external control to adjust from the max the diode will handle, down to nothing.

THanks, let me know?

Hi, yes this is possible and hasn't been mentioned yet. to do this, you can desolder the black resistor that is below the tiny pot and put this in series with the pot of your choice. You can experiment with your adjustable pot value, you'll probably want to use around 4.7k for red lasers and 10k for blu lasers."

So there is an option, this was with the version 3, although i'm sure the v4 wouldn't be much different. I set the maximum for the blu-ray and control the power from that setting down to zero with a pot wired as noted.

Also, I will wire up a simplex combo chamber into the body of the raygun. This is a strictly mechanical five button lock. You enter the correct combo and it works, you don't and it doesn't. I'm sure you've seen the locks these are used in. They have five silver buttons straight down in a row and you push certain ones and it allows entry. I have several old ones from jobs I've done. The combo chamber for these is about 4 1/2" long and 3/4" square. This will either be tied in to the trigger directly as a lockout or via another microswitch to allow it to be turned on. The buttons will be mounted on the main body.

Finally, I want the blu-ray mounted on the body side of the barrel. This will allow a focus ring to sit directly above the trigger area and actually adjust the lens directly. When I saw the jayrob focus ring made for Krytons, I realized it would be perfect for this application.

My favorite part is the barrel, being uranium glass it will glow green everytime the laser is fired. It will have a blue laser coming out of a green lit barrel with no direct lighting.

I know this is very ambitious. But I have plenty of time to work on it. parts don't have to be small because they are mostly housed in the body and the barrel is strictly for the effect of the uranium glass. I plan on using the grip for the batteries.

I'll post pencil drawings later.

 

[chipdouglas]

The build seems complicated but very cool. The only advice i can give would be use a ddl driver and mount it in the handle/grip section. this way you could get a nice potentiometer and mount it in a separate location i.e. the back of the gun, with a nice surface mount knob that you can custom number/letter according to the output settings. Also it doesnt seem like something that will be used for close up burning so i would set and lock the focus at infinity and keep it all the way in the housing for the cleanest look possible. and since you are asking for advice, i would incorporate as much brass or copper as possible.

good luck
michael

 

[Mr_Lazo]

Are you looking for a smoother gun (a la Rayguns R Us) or a more Steampunk-ish rough look (a la Weta)?

I ask because it would determine how you should go about making it. The smoother design will require mostly custom machining, whereas the rougher design will be a lot of trash-picking and antique/thrift store scouring.

What I'd recommend is to decide which one you want first. Smooth: draw up your plans. Rough: take a week or so to gather "raw materials" that catch your interest with a focus on finding the core/main body of the gun (perhaps an old bicycle headlight housing or a couple of floodlight housings attached open end to open end, depending on what size you're going for) and draw your plans around what you've found that you want to incorporate into the final design.

 

[icecruncher]

I'm looking for more smooth. I have plans drawn up but some of the details are still sketchy.

I already have the lock, the uranium tubes, drivers, etc. I need to test assemble electronics before I even consider building it.

My biggest concerns are the one or two tapers that will be required, joining the pieces, threading and every thing being solid and precise when finished. I work with metal all the time, but you know how that goes. I don't have a lathe and some pieces for assembly will probably have to be custom work (by someone better than me).

Also the alignment on the blu-ray when it goes through the "barrel" of the unit. The tubes are 6mm inside dimension, so there is a little wiggle room but not a lot.

It will have to be at least three pieces that can be disassemble and reassembled.
1 the handle (also possibly trigger)
2. for the main body with the pot and 5 button assembly
3 and one for the tapered end (holding the blu-ray, heatsink, adjustment) out to the barrel and tip.

I've considered doing a preliminary out of a softer material to check fit.

 

[Switch]

This is going to be really amazing if you actually go around and build it!! Ambitious indeed.Also looks a little expensive and time consuming. Can you post some pictures of the parts you have? I'm especially interested in the 5 button lock, I'm not sure I've seen any of those.And are you going to use it as a key lock for the laser?

 

[icecruncher]

This is going to be really amazing if you actually go around and build it!! Ambitious indeed.Also looks a little expensive and time consuming. Can you post some pictures of the parts you have? I'm especially interested in the 5 button lock, I'm not sure I've seen any of those.And are you going to use it as a key lock for the laser?

Still looking for the first set of pencil drawings, anyway here is a pic of a couple typical simplex combo chambers with the cover removed and the aluminum buttons I'll be using. Also a pic of the lock its out of and a pic of the uranium glass tubes

The center post will only turn one direction unless the correct combo is entered, then it turns the other way. I'll mount it with the two posts on the main body, drilling through to mount the buttons

After a lot of contemplating and research, I think the best way for me to proceed on this project is to purchase a mini lathe and go from there, I can always use it for other laser projects and locksmith projects also.

Right now my preference is the Big Dog 7 x 14. I think, with some practice, I can create the pieces I need with the appropriate tolerances and fit and finish.

http://www.bigdogmetalworks.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=779&idcategory=15

 

[Flaminpyro]

:wave:Icecruncher would you have a piece of that U-glass that you might be willing to part with ?

Best Regarrds Pyro...

 

[Mr_Lazo]

Uranium glass is a lot of fun!

I picked up a couple of antique tumblers for my absinthe and it looks brilliant when you lase the absinthe in the glass with a BR!

Also, icecruncher gives a link at the top of the thread with the eBay seller he got his glass from.

 

[HIMNL9]

Amazing, i like a lot those steampunk style guns ..... and also your idea is, imho, very good, for an exposition item.

About the fact that you want to control the power, i suggest you to use a linear regulator.

Sure you don't have space problems, being not constrained to use a pen-size holder, so you can go with 2 lithium cells in series, and then use a linear reglator, that is extremely simple and can be made in the min/max range that you want very easy.

I mean, supposing you need something that can go from as example, 10 to 100 mA, just get an LM317, a 12 ohm resistor, a 100 ohm pot, some capacitors for the filtering, and you already have your regulator, with no problems