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KD50mW Version 1 Review

iskor12

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Hi everyone. I figured that I had some time tonight to write another bad review...SO HERE IT GOES.
Item Site Link
http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1246

Model: KD50 Version 1
Laser: 50mW Green Laser
Battery: 1X CR2 included

Today I received my brand new KD50. It took about 2 weeks for it to get to me, but unfortionatly that time doesn't include the 1 week it took for them just to ship it out. During the week that it took for it to be shipped, I had a very hard time talking/writing to the Help Department. For instance, I would send them a 2 or 3 paragraph email asking several questions and they would just respond back with just one sentence and that was it. They always left questions un-answered and at one time, they even appeared to get angry with me???

Ok, outside of that whole fiasco, I am very pleased with the product that I received. :)
As you can clearly see, the finnish quality of this laser is flawless. By far one of the best laser bodies/hosts I own.






Quality control sticker



Now as for it's performance.....
I have had some issues in the short period of time of me even owning it.. The push button assembly has problems with it. For instance, sometimes when I turn it on, I get a very dim or even non-existant beam/dot. This leads me to believe that there is either a bad solder or a faulty switch. Due to the fact that when I just wigle the switch with my finger, the laser flickers and goes up and down in output, I am 99% sure that it is the switch. I will either replace it, or fix it with some solder.

Switch in detail.
Un-assembled


Switch Looks very cheap



This is the ring that the switch gets pushed into. Please note that the switch isn't soldered into the laser. This is where I think the bad connection is occuring.


In the end, when the push button manages to get a good connection, this laser seems to have a great output, but unfortionatly, I can't give exact output reading due to my lack of owning a LPM. Beam is visible indoors with the light on.

Don't let this discurage you from buying this laser, for I believe that this laser really is a huge bang for your buck.
The overall quality of this laser is much higher than any DX laser I own.

Scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the best
Value: 8
Output: 6 (could always be brighter) :)
Battery type: 3 (I hate CR2's)
Finnish: 10
Quality: 5 (Fix the push button and I would give it an 8)
Divergence: 6.5
Company: 3 (Impossible to talk to)

OVERALL: 7 :)

Thanks for reading. I will post some Beam shots at a later time. :)
Feel free to ask any questions. I will try to answer them to the best of my abillity.

 
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iskor12

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Here are some beam shots.



A shot strait up into the sky....Yes that is my forhead. :)


Sorry that's all for now. :)
 

XCreedX

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Nice review, I have the KD50 copper version. Yeah the switches do suck :D
 

realista

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good review.how do you do beamshoot? i have a nokia n73 and it can't see the "beam" ...XD what should i do XD i have not a digital camera... ..!how much is the beam diameter? it burns? my kaleidoscopic 30mw.. a bit potmodded.. can burn something...
 

jander6442

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I've have at least ten of these... They make great host for other more powerful lasers...

They all have been great for the $29.99 they ask for I've had some 50's that when taken apart said 60mW some even 70mW...

They are pot modifiable and go up to 349mA in power... Great deals iskor
I try to order 1 a week and then mod them.

I have yet to fry one...

As for the switch try measuring the batt. to another one cause I have had some batt. shorter than others by mm's.

I have also pinched the switches prongs out and blobbed some solder at the ends...
The 100mW V1 is also a good deal same module as the o-like for less money you get the host w/a heck of a sink in the head alot of material in there... + a switch

good review and +rep for common sence for spending money wizely...:worthy:
 

iskor12

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good review.how do you do beamshoot? i have a nokia n73 and it can't see the "beam" ...XD what should i do XD i have not a digital camera... ..!how much is the beam diameter? it burns? my kaleidoscopic 30mw.. a bit potmodded.. can burn something...
Is there anyway that you can control how long the aperature is open on your camera? If so, set it so it stays open for a long period of time. :)

EDIT: JUST NOTICED YOUR OTHER QUESTIONS>

Beam diameter is rather small. I unfortionatly don't have a way to measure it though.
It will sting your skin after 3 to 5 seconds. It slowly melts black plastic garbage bags.
 
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iskor12

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I've have at least ten of these... They make great host for other more powerful lasers...

They all have been great for the $29.99 they ask for I've had some 50's that when taken apart said 60mW some even 70mW...

They are pot modifiable and go up to 349mA in power... Great deals iskor
I try to order 1 a week and then mod them.

I have yet to fry one...

As for the switch try measuring the batt. to another one cause I have had some batt. shorter than others by mm's.

I have also pinched the switches prongs out and blobbed some solder at the ends...
The 100mW V1 is also a good deal same module as the o-like for less money you get the host w/a heck of a sink in the head alot of material in there... + a switch

good review and +rep for common sence for spending money wizely...:worthy:

I am not sure how to take the module out. Well, I have an idea, but I don't want to mess up the lense by unscrewing it from the host. Could you please describe how to take it out for me, you know, just so that I can be sure. :)

Also, How much more power can you get out of these by pot modding them? Also, From what I understand with what you wrote, I should be able to buy a O-like module and stick it in this awesome KD version 1 host? If so, THat is SWEET!! I would love to have a 100mW green laser.

One last thing....Thanks for all of the good/positive responses to my review. It make me feel as if the time that I took to make it, was worth while. :)
 

jander6442

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Just buy the Kd 100 V1 its is identical to the o-like and I never been anything but exteremly satisfied... cheaper too...

I have found that in the third or 4th groove there is a threaded seperation.
The mod is placed in a threaded collar in that seperation toward the top of the unit.

If you want to acess that be careful and take the batt. out and there is some glue up there... If the spring real carefully turns when you turn the upper head then your ok...

If you crack the glue and turn it real slow and the spring dosen't turn then stop...

your twisting the diode shafts...I've found out the hard way...

Some heat maybe used to soften the glue aka lighter I will post some picks when I can on this. Josh
 

iskor12

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Just buy the Kd 100 V1 its is identical to the o-like and I never been anything but exteremly satisfied... cheaper too...

I have found that in the third or 4th groove there is a threaded seperation.
The mod is placed in a threaded collar in that seperation toward the top of the unit.

If you want to acess that be careful and take the batt. out and there is some glue up there... If the spring real carefully turns when you turn the upper head then your ok...

If you crack the glue and turn it real slow and the spring dosen't turn then stop...

your twisting the diode shafts...I've found out the hard way...

Some heat maybe used to soften the glue aka lighter I will post some picks when I can on this. Josh
So you do turn it where the Lense is...right? Thanks again Josh
 

jander6442

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not from the very tip Iskor Hold off on this untill I can get some pics I've got some field work today I'll get back soooooon...
 

iskor12

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not from the very tip Iskor Hold off on this untill I can get some pics I've got some field work today I'll get back soooooon...
I figured out what you are talking about. There is currently a black foam ring around the spring. Under that is a copper ring. How easy are these to potmoDD?
 

jander6442

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very easy I read brews post I know there are risks but all my mods have started
IIRC...

at about 340 mA careful though these are case +...

different critters that amp test was done without a resistor...

I also will tell you not do do this with you first one just buy a couple and try one out for that purpose... I'll post pics ON LUCHBREAK for now. josh
 

iskor12

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very easy I read brews post I know there are risks but all my mods have started
IIRC...

at about 340 mA careful though these are case +...

different critters that amp test was done without a resistor...

I also will tell you not do do this with you first one just buy a couple and try one out for that purpose... I'll post pics ON LUCHBREAK for now. josh
oK..Thanks for the info. :)
 

Benm

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I've had one of these, and it worked quite well for some time. I though the switch looked dodge the way its mounted as well, but never gave me any problems.

As for battery type: i wouldn't give it a bad rating because of that, you know it takes CR2's when ordering it.

My laser eventually died (must have had it for a few months), i'm not sure exactly why, but the diode was fried - could have been bad luck of course.

I do agree on the problem contacting KD. They have some interesting products for sale, but i feel that i'll never get a refund or replacement if one arrives dead - they just don't seem to read or answer e-mail. I would like to get some of their 100 mW greens, but the support issue is keeping me from ordering.
 

iskor12

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good review.how do you do beamshoot? i have a nokia n73 and it can't see the "beam" ...XD what should i do XD i have not a digital camera... ..!how much is the beam diameter? it burns? my kaleidoscopic 30mw.. a bit potmodded.. can burn something...
This is all of the information that I can give you For taking a beamshot. These where my settings on my camera.

Camera Make: PENTAX Corporation
Camera Model: PENTAX Optio S10
Resolution: 640 x 480
Flash Used: No
Focal Length: 7.9mm (35mm equivalent: 38mm)
Exposure Time: 1.600 s
Aperture: f/2.8
ISO Equiv.: 800
Whitebalance: Auto
Metering Mode: matrix
 

BrewCityMusic

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I've got a Fuji F10 and the only thing I do for beamshots is turn off the flash and hold the camera as still as possible:



(Thats a 197mW 6X, a Dilda, and a 110mW green pen, btw)
 




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