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Just out of curiosity is there a max temp rating for a NUBM44 ?

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I get mine good and warm, sometimes I open the icebox and roll the heat sink around carefully melting ice to cool it for more runtime.

BTW

I have been putting little volt meters on some of my builds and adding them to older builds, they are accurate as verified by my fluke meter.

Anyway the only 2 cell NUBM44 I have left, that is the only build I have not upgraded to 3 cells is running 2 cells and they sag much faster, as the cells wear out over many dozens of cycles they sag faster, also switch springs get weak and you can see voltage sag with orientation, you would be surprised how hot your tail cap spring gets where it makes contact with the battery.

If you want full power out of the NUBM44 you have to feed it.
I over built my host so much that nothing is getting even a little warm, Heavy springs at both ends, a 10 amp aviation micro switch and heavy gauge fine strand copper wire through out plus I'm running 2 ea IJOY INR 26650 batteries that can putout 30 Amps continuously, It's way overboard but that's partly because that's the stuff I had on hand and didn't have to buy any of it.......


This is why I feed it straight from the mains. :p
Constant power, better heatsinking. Better overall.
That will keep if feed alright, That is if you remember to pay your power bill...... LOL
 
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lasersbee

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Here is a Specs Sheet...
If anyone has a project for a driver, I would appreciate....
1)
Are you aware that this is a 1 year old Thread..:thinking:
Necroposting is frowned upon by the Forum Community...

2)
It would be appreciated if you would introduce
yourself to the members in the Welcome section
so that members can learn a little about you.

Members are more likely to help someone they know
a little about.


Jerry
 
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DTR

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Here is a Specs Sheet...
If anyone has a project for a driver, I would appreciate....
Not to necro a necro but just to point out there is no official specs from the manufacturer on this diode. Spec sheets like this and any others found out there are put together by third parties either based on in house testing/observations, data from the large amount of community testing, specs that are just copied assuming the same numbers with other diodes that have similar characteristics or just made up altogether.:beer:
 

deadshadow

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just to add some info from personal experience,i let once a nubm08 by mistake to overheat to the point that burned my finger for good and the diode dimmed out suddenly like "led",i turned it off instantly and after it cooled the diode recovered at full power. those diode's that come from projectors are more robust on temperures because they actually run hot on the 1st place so the manufacturers know that.so i assume 60c is a very well safe zone.
 

WizardG

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I've had my EDC laser, '520-B1, get stuck 'on' in the pocket of my jacket a couple times. Both times the case (it's in a pen host) got far too hot to hold, very close to 90 degrees C. Tough little diode, no loss of power although I'm pretty sure it isn't good for it.
 

Alaskan

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I found a general rule of thumb for laser diodes somewhere once, true? I don't know, but for every 10 degrees increased temperature, the life is reduced by half, but the way we over drive our diodes, that's probably the smaller part of having a short life, the over current probably reduces the life by tens of time divides.
 

RedCowboy

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44 is a pretty tough diode, I have ran them pretty hot and still they march on.

The data sheet says 65 C for the NUBM06 , 70C for the NUBM08 and 65 C for the NUBM05, so I would think that 65 C is ok for the 44.
 
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Alaskan

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Then it likely is fine up at 60-65 C due to being the same manufacturer, they likely use the same material and otherwise is essentially the same diode, except for emitter length to give more power.
 

RedCowboy

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The 08 ( with GBall removed ) has the same divergence as the 44 and all the nubm diodes mount in the high security blocks, looking at the construction of it's original ecomony units I expect the 44 was made to be extra tough.
 
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