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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

JL tail cap question kinda OT

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Jul 29, 2018
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I have a JL PL-E Pro. I am also an amateur lock picker. There seems to be some type of tubular lock on the tail cap of my PL-E; but it is a non standard size which is 7.8mm, or less common 7.5 or 7.0. Most common pin configurations are 7 pin or 8 pin; but the JL lock does not have any visible pins.

The standard rule of thumb is to never pick a lock that is in use and I have no plans to try and pick the tubular lock on the back of my JL PL-E. But when I posted a pix of the lock at the lockpicking forum I am a member of posters there were very interested in the type of lock used.


Can anyone answer the question of what type of lock is on the tail cap of JL lasers.

As an aside if someone showed a pix of a laser beam that was orange with green polka dots there would be multiple questions about it; it is the same with lock pickers that see a lock they have never seen before.
 





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I've also been into lock picking for the past 45 years. Got interested from a locksmith friend many years ago. I haven't kept up with it much in the past 10 years or so. Still have several sets of lock picks for various kinds of locks.
 
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do you need a key??


Not yet. But I am interested in what type of key and lock is used. So far it seems like the key and lock are similar to what is used on some file cabinets in the US from what my lockpicking guys are saying.


But am trying to get up to speed on tail caps. Seems like there is an option for a push button or a lock and key on the PL-E. I thought I read somewhere that the lock and key was a tad bit more powerful while the push button had different power levels. I am wondering if it would be possible to have two tail caps and switch them out.


Every time I get on the internet and read about lasers I feel like I am way behind the curve.
 
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I wouldn't be surprised to find the lock uses the same key for all their lasers. Most of the ones I've seen have maybe three tumblers, so not very sophisticated.
 

Gazen

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If you contact jetlasers they’ll send you a tail cap for the shipping cost(at least they offered to do so for me).

I don’t see why the different tailcap would affect power, even if it adds some resistance the driver should still regulate the current to the same amperage.
 
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It won't affect power, the only difference would be if the driver was set up to step through modes which could be done with a key switch as well, but the Jet has the tail switch and a momentary side IINM, so button or key actuated switch won't change the output, one may handle more amps, but again not something that will change the output power.

Getting a replacement from Jet is a good idea so it will be an easy change out.
 
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I'm an ALOA CRL #50367 and NC locksmith #0462
I've been a locksmith for about 25 years.

Can you post a picture of it? Viewed from the end.

Have you tried to stick a feeler in and see if there is any spring tension.

Some of the "newer" style tubulars only have 4 pins instead of those that are normal 7pin and use the ACE round key #1137- primarily the 4 pins tubulars are used in computer style locks - think Kensington security cable

I have seen the 4 pin tubulars on cheap wall safes and some laser lockout hosts also.

There is a "newer" style pick that runs about $100-$130
Also a cross pick MIGHT work if it is a 4 pin lock - cross picks are usually pretty cheap.

They have a much smaller tubuar diameter than the normal ones.
And they are usually very easy to pick

Hope that helps.

I recently filed for disability (In May) but I know more about tubular locks than most.
 
Joined
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I'm an ALOA CRL #50367 and NC locksmith #0462
I've been a locksmith for about 25 years.

Can you post a picture of it? Viewed from the end.

Have you tried to stick a feeler in and see if there is any spring tension.

Some of the "newer" style tubulars only have 4 pins instead of those that are normal 7pin and use the ACE round key #1137- primarily the 4 pins tubulars are used in computer style locks - think Kensington security cable

I have seen the 4 pin tubulars on cheap wall safes and some laser lockout hosts also.

There is a "newer" style pick that runs about $100-$130
Also a cross pick MIGHT work if it is a 4 pin lock - cross picks are usually pretty cheap.

They have a much smaller tubuar diameter than the normal ones.
And they are usually very easy to pick

Hope that helps.

I recently filed for disability (In May) but I know more about tubular locks than most.


Thanks for the input. Many years ago I downloaded a copy of the MIT lockpicking book and have been playing around with lockpicking ever since. My take on tubular locks is that they are so widespread in things like vending machines because they are different. At one time they were probably a good choice because not a lot of folks knew how to deal with them. But once the tubular tools came out they suddenly became almost trivial to pick.

I may try and take a pix of it. But here is a link to an Amazon lock that seems to be very similar. There is an arrow head on the middle post (which can be depressed) like the one in the JL tail cap. The keys themselves also seem to have much bigger groves than the other tubular lock keys I have.


The key way is was smaller than the standard 7.8mm, or even the 7.0mm key way. There is not really much room to put anything in. I tried using a short hook and a medium hook but did not notice any pins.


One reason I ordered the Amazon lock is to see just how possible it is to pick. I would not try to pick the JL lock since I would not want to risk damaging it. A lot of folks I know (and myself as well) have noted that it is common to find cheap locks that are harder to pick than middle tier locks.


Update Edit.

You were right. The Amazon lock arrived and the keys worked on the PL-E lock with no problem. The biggest difference was the Amazon keys had a nice big plastic handle that made holding them comfortable while the PL-E keys handle looked to be made from stamped metal. I will post pix of the keys and lock on a lockpicking forum and see what they have to say about picking them. Ever since my first attempt with a Kwikset which resulted in the lock not opening and a lot of brass shavings on my desk I have always been slow to start picking a lock; always asking for advice first.
 
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That's about useless, we need to see your lock/laser.

We want to see a pic of yours, is there any reason why you can't take a pic of yours ?
 
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sorry but I dont get the point??
Next time you buy a JL ask for a replacement PL-E Pro Tailcap with 'coded' switch. Ordered alone the $hip cost would likley be more than the cost of the tailcap.

JL iirc is about the only maker of HH lasers that met all/most of the regs and that was the PL-Cs which only lacked the delay start...afaik
btw these 'extras' account the the higher prices for JLs..as well as the REAL warranty and excellent customer service.

good luck---len
 




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