Is my diode dead?

[Pluxx]

it must be of quality brand, not cheap chineese crap...

Changed them still the same problem :/

 

[Alien Laser]

The laser is on its last light i have 5 or 6 like this it will not get brighter the nm is changed already you need a new diode just get the driver and the diode from DTR's , some of the surviver laser drivers are overdriven i have 4 of different drivers and none are correct at the amp, i got a driver from DTR's Shop it was 4.5A and i tested it it was 4.5A +/- 1% Perfect/ the drivers from survival laser if its 1A forget it it must be 1.2A or a 600mA is more like 1A many people complain about it its strange it could be the problem survival laser or the users i got some drivers from DTR and never had a problem

 

[Isaac Clarke]

alright what brand did you use?

 

[DTR]

Yea looks like the diode got spiked and is LED. Couple things on laser drivers to test or change the current you will need test load. I did not see one in your pictures. Can I assume you put either the meter on the output of the driver or worse in series with the diode on the output of the driver?

On the leads are they twist tied between the diode and driver or soldered? The connection between the diode and driver should be soldered, secured and nothing in series like a DMM on the output. Laser drivers use caps on the output to smooth the current flow to the diode. If there is any intermittent contact there the cap will charge and spike the diode.

On the drivers if you don't have a test load and have a meter hooked up on the output that can damage switching(buck or boost) drivers running without a load. A test load is pretty easy to make or you can buy some really nice premade one from a few members here. If you will be doing a lot of building then it is a good tool to have.

The batteries could be an issue but if the meter was showing a full 1.8A going out with the diode connected then it is probably not what is causing the main problem but still may be worth looking at new cells. As far as cells quality brand like Panasonic, LG, sanyo, AW, Powerkeeper, Sony, samsung. ect... are good ones to look for. I would stay away from anything xxxxfire.
Check this out.
http://laserpointerforums.com/f67/warning-see-if-you-will-ever-buy-ultrafire-after-seeing-87108.html

If you want shoot the module over to me and I will test and confirm what I am pretty sure is a LED diode and if it is I would rebuild it for you for the cost of a bare diode to help you out.:beer:

 

[Isaac Clarke]

listen to the man Plux!! a word of advice as well... when you buy diode from DTR it's better if you buy the module combo that's include the driver and nothing will go wrong. and yes the diode is led/dead.... sorry for your loss.

 

[Pman]

Ugh.
Just take advantage of DTR's generosity and let him look at it for you.
Please do yourself a big favor and get the proper test equipment before attempting another build. It will save you a lot of money and frustration.
Of course you could just buy a complete module from DTR

 

[Pluxx]

The laser is on its last light i have 5 or 6 like this it will not get brighter the nm is changed already you need a new diode just get the driver and the diode from DTR's , some of the surviver laser drivers are overdriven i have 4 of different drivers and none are correct at the amp, i got a driver from DTR's Shop it was 4.5A and i tested it it was 4.5A +/- 1% Perfect/ the drivers from survival laser if its 1A forget it it must be 1.2A or a 600mA is more like 1A many people complain about it its strange it could be the problem survival laser or the users i got some drivers from DTR and never had a problem

alright what brand did you use?

Yea looks like the diode got spiked and is LED. Couple things on laser drivers to test or change the current you will need test load. I did not see one in your pictures. Can I assume you put either the meter on the output of the driver or worse in series with the diode on the output of the driver?

On the leads are they twist tied between the diode and driver or soldered? The connection between the diode and driver should be soldered, secured and nothing in series like a DMM on the output. Laser drivers use caps on the output to smooth the current flow to the diode. If there is any intermittent contact there the cap will charge and spike the diode.

On the drivers if you don't have a test load and have a meter hooked up on the output that can damage switching(buck or boost) drivers running without a load. A test load is pretty easy to make or you can buy some really nice premade one from a few members here. If you will be doing a lot of building then it is a good tool to have.

The batteries could be an issue but if the meter was showing a full 1.8A going out with the diode connected then it is probably not what is causing the main problem but still may be worth looking at new cells. As far as cells quality brand like Panasonic, LG, sanyo, AW, Powerkeeper, Sony, samsung. ect... are good ones to look for. I would stay away from anything xxxxfire.
Check this out.
http://laserpointerforums.com/f67/warning-see-if-you-will-ever-buy-ultrafire-after-seeing-87108.html

If you want shoot the module over to me and I will test and confirm what I am pretty sure is a LED diode and if it is I would rebuild it for you for the cost of a bare diode to help you out.:beer:

listen to the man Plux!! a word of advice as well... when you buy diode from DTR it's better if you buy the module combo that's include the driver and nothing will go wrong. and yes the diode is led/dead.... sorry for your loss.

Ugh.
Just take advantage of DTR's generosity and let him look at it for you.
Please do yourself a big favor and get the proper test equipment before attempting another build. It will save you a lot of money and frustration.
Of course you could just buy a complete module from DTR

Ok first of all thanks to all of you for your great help
MUCH appreciated!

Now i just have 1 last question. Would it be fine if i use the same driver and just get a new diode? Since there is a very high chance i killed the current ones beforehand with the adjustable driver from SL anyway, If i cant/shouldn't use this driver which one would you recommend for me? And are there some from DTR's shop that would fit in that host? Since it'll be way overbudget for me to get everything from scratch :/

 

[Pluxx]

Yea looks like the diode got spiked and is LED. Couple things on laser drivers to test or change the current you will need test load. I did not see one in your pictures. Can I assume you put either the meter on the output of the driver or worse in series with the diode on the output of the driver?

On the leads are they twist tied between the diode and driver or soldered? The connection between the diode and driver should be soldered, secured and nothing in series like a DMM on the output. Laser drivers use caps on the output to smooth the current flow to the diode. If there is any intermittent contact there the cap will charge and spike the diode.

On the drivers if you don't have a test load and have a meter hooked up on the output that can damage switching(buck or boost) drivers running without a load. A test load is pretty easy to make or you can buy some really nice premade one from a few members here. If you will be doing a lot of building then it is a good tool to have.

The batteries could be an issue but if the meter was showing a full 1.8A going out with the diode connected then it is probably not what is causing the main problem but still may be worth looking at new cells. As far as cells quality brand like Panasonic, LG, sanyo, AW, Powerkeeper, Sony, samsung. ect... are good ones to look for. I would stay away from anything xxxxfire.
Check this out.
http://laserpointerforums.com/f67/warning-see-if-you-will-ever-buy-ultrafire-after-seeing-87108.html

If you want shoot the module over to me and I will test and confirm what I am pretty sure is a LED diode and if it is I would rebuild it for you for the cost of a bare diode to help you out.:beer:

OK what i did to check the current was just use the positive and negative leads and turned the laser on and used the leads to check the current. Without hooking up the diode. Then I hooked it up and tested it.

Also the connection is soldered and wrapped around electrical tape

As for the batteries i went ahead and bought 2 green samsung batteries

 

[Isaac Clarke]

Nice!! you don't have to build everything from scratch. for starter just accept DTR offer to fix it for you... and request him to attach a driver to the module. then pm me with picture after your module is fixed.