iDRV3 - New 3A Buck Driver

[Meatball]

Automotive usually means it should operate at an extended temperature range over 100degC

Electrically, the nominal 12V supply can have noise and ripple and can also have spikes of hundreds of volts lasting milliseconds (load dump) when electric motors (engine fans, wipers etc) and relays turn on/off so it should survive those too.

Right, a spike of up to 48VDC is to be dealt with - which I can take care of with a regulator circuit.

I was wondering if I'd be able to count on the components to work in -30 Deg C in Winter and up to 50C in summer - for a vehicle tail light. Nebraska gets strange weather sometimes resulting in thermal shock.

The IC in the least should have some temperature ratings which might be nice to know - but it would be inappropriate to ask foulmist about the IC model.

 

[foulmist]

Right, a spike of up to 48VDC is to be dealt with - which I can take care of with a regulator circuit.

I was wondering if I'd be able to count on the components to work in -30 Deg C in Winter and up to 50C in summer - for a vehicle tail light. Nebraska gets strange weather sometimes resulting in thermal shock.

The IC in the least should have some temperature ratings which might be nice to know - but it would be inappropriate to ask foulmist about the IC model.

the normal IC's operating temp is between -25 and +85 Celsius
:beer:

 

[Eradicator]

got to love having a solder/reflow station. big thanks to Eradicator for the cap!!

No problem, glad to help!

 

[foulmist]

WARNING!

for those of you who use arctic silver, I would suggest you switch to a non-metal containing thermal paste. like the white Silicone paste.

there are some exposed vias points on the bottom of the pcb and if the arctic silver gets in them it might cause a short with the heatsink and kill your diode.

arctic silver is a fine silver dust enclosed in non electricly conductive medium but if hardly pressed between two layers the silver particles might cause a short.

so be aware!

 

[foulmist]

until this batch of boards is sold out I will lower the price to $10 each.

as I am in a emergency need of money

 

[Blord]

That is a firm price drop !
I am sure they go fast !

 

[NKO29]

Pm inbound!

 

[NKO29]

It arrived! I'll get to testing it ASAP So far, the driver looks GREAT, very good re flowing work I will be back for 2 more soon, i think.

 

[foulmist]

great to hear :beer:
​

 

[NKO29]

I just tested it and it was SPOT ON 2.27A But am i meant to hear a very faint high pitched sound from the capacitors?

 

[foulmist]

I just tested it and it was SPOT ON 2.27A But am i meant to hear a very faint high pitched sound from the capacitors?

I don't think it would be coming from the capacitor more likely the inductor, I have never had this sound with this driver unless the power supply is not able to supply the current or voltage needed.

what are you using for input power?

 

[honeyx]

Hello foulmist,

just wanted to say your driver is great. I got two of them from you some time ago and will use them with some 445nm 9mm diodes in my new build. The diodes will be driven separately but would like to know if the IDRV3 drivers can be driven in parallel too.

 

[NKO29]

All good now. The batteries were uncharged.

 

[foulmist]

Hello foulmist,

just wanted to say your driver is great. I got two of them from you some time ago and will use them with some 445nm 9mm diodes in my new build. The diodes will be driven separately but would like to know if the IDRV3 drivers can be driven in parallel too.

Paralleling switching drivers like that isn't a very good idea and I wouldn't recommend it. It might work but one driver will do the most of the work and the other will try to keep up and unless you balance them they won't be stable. I wouldn't use them in parallel so if do it it's on your own risk.

I have a design for a 4A buck driver but will take money and time to make it real. And I don't think it will be any time soon.

All good now. The batteries were uncharged.

Great I knew it was the input power :beer: