Help!!!

[Mohrenberg]

something is wrong and i can't figure it out.....none of my diodes seem to work, not sure if i've killed them all or what,
but i am using 2x 3v lithiums hooked up to 250ma fixed output rckstr driver.
on my voltage meter it's reading 5.2v and 250ma.

but my diodes are all dim, i can shine them across the room but it's just a very small spec or just a dim dot

not sure what to do!

 

[GooeyGus]

they sound dead.

What kind of diodes are you trying to power?

If they are blu-ray, the 2x 3v may not be enough.

You'll need 2 x 3.6v at full charge, so 4.2v each.

 

[Mohrenberg]

they sound dead.

What kind of diodes are you trying to power?

If they are blu-ray, the 2x 3v may not be enough.

You'll need 2 x 3.6v at full charge, so 4.2v each.

they are all sony 16x red diodes, one is brand new from stonetek! i just got it in the mail today
unless my host is killing them then i don't see how i broke it......but i would think it would be bright for atleast a second....but as soon as i turn it on is was always dim.......

which i was wondering, at the opening of the diode don't they usually have a glass thing covering up the opening? my other two do but the one from stonetek didn't.

 

[daguin]

they sound dead.
What kind of diodes are you trying to power?
If they are blu-ray, the 2x 3v may not be enough.
You'll need 2 x 3.6v at full charge, so 4.2v each.

If they were blu-ray diodes the 250mA would kill them any way


The set up you describe should work for the 16X diode. And no, the diodes should not have a "window" in them. The newer 16X's come windowless.

How are you powering it? Did they work before you put them into the host? Have you tested to see of the driver is REALLY only putting out 250mA? How good are your solder joints, especially from the driver to the diode? How quickly are you getting it soldered?

Peace,
dave

 

[Ace82]

Are you powering it directly or is it operating already installed in a host?
If it's in a host, what polarity did you ground with? Because you have to make sure not to short the power due to the diode's casing polarity making contact to the opposite polarity because of metal connection from battery orientation inside the host.

 

[Mohrenberg]

i initially tried it with the driver inside the host, and just connecting the prongs.

i tried it with everything out of the host...same result......guess the diode is dead.....this is very discouraging, i have no idea what i possibly could of done to kill the diode i even tested it with the voltage meter before hooking the diode up to it (and i didn't soolder it, i just connected the wires to it.....so i know i didn't overheat it with soldering.....i never dropped it.......no idea.....

so after all that i just hooked it directly up to a 3v battery. figured it's not going to hurt anything now....and it got the same result so i guess it's dead......

this was my first purchase from stonetek so now i'm hesitant to buy another from him.

 

[daguin]

i initially tried it with the driver inside the host, [highlight]and just connecting the prongs.[/highlight]

i tried it with everything out of the host...same result......guess the diode is dead.....this is very discouraging, i have no idea what i possibly could of done to kill the diode i even tested it with the voltage meter before hooking the diode up to it ([highlight]and i didn't soolder it, i just connected the wires to it.....so i know i didn't overheat it with soldering.[/highlight]....i never dropped it.......no idea.....

Those statements are very troubling.  How did you connect the "prongs"?  What were the prongs on?  What did you connect them to?  Tested what with the voltage meter?  How did you "test" it?  A momentary break in the power to a diode will charge the capacitor on the driver and blow the diode on re-connect.  Always solder the joints, even for a temporary connection.  Always short out the pads on the driver before hooking up the diode.  Don't you solder the diode pins to the driver?

People have bought literally hundreds of diodes form Stontek. I don't think that is the problem

Peace,
dave

 

[Mohrenberg]

Those statements are very troubling.  How did you connect the "prongs"?  What were the prongs on?  What did you connect them to?  Tested what with the voltage meter?  How did you "test" it?  A momentary break in the power to a diode will charge the capacitor on the driver and blow the diode on re-connect.  Always solder the joints, even for a temporary connection.  Always short out the pads on the driver before hooking up the diode.  Don't you solder the diode pins to the driver?

People have bought literally hundreds of diodes form Stontek.  I don't think that is the problem

Peace,
dave

i tested the host --- driver ---- to the multimeter which, assuming i read it right, showed 5.2v and 250ma.

then i just twisted the wires onto the pins
according to http://stonetek.org/shop/SLD1239JL-54.pdf , i put the pos on the #1 pin  and the negative on the #3 pin

 

[daguin]

i tested the host --- driver ---- to the multimeter which, assuming i read it right, showed 5.2v and 250ma.
then i just twisted the wires onto the pins
according to http://stonetek.org/shop/SLD1239JL-54.pdf , i put the pos on the #1 pin  and the negative on the #3 pin

I'm sorry for all the questions, but I'm trying to get a picture of the setup in my mind.

The Rkcstr driver has "solder pads" at the "front" of the driver to which you attach the diode pins and wires at the back of the driver to which you attach the power source (battery).  Did you solder wires to those pads (on the driver), test the driver, and then "twist" the wires onto the pins of the diode?

Peace,
dave

 

[Mohrenberg]

correct

 

[daguin]

correct

Then we have found the problem.  The connections between the driver and the diode MUST be soldered.  Any momentary (no matter how slight) break in the connection here, with the power on, will cause a spike in current to flow through the diode and blow it.  It is why we don't even recommend the use of "sockets" for the diodes.

It sounds like the rest of the setup should work for the 16X diode.  I suggest you get another one, and solder the connections.  You shouldn't have to "test" this driver again.  If it is a "fixed" current at 250mA, you are fine.

Did you solder the wires from the back of the driver to the battery connections or try a mechanical connection there as well?  It is best if these connections are also soldered, but they won't blow the diode if they loose connection.  The laser will just go dark.

Peace,
dave

 

[Mohrenberg]

ok

just so i have this correct...
rule #1, always solder....
rule #2 if theres a break in the current, it must be between the driver and the batteries, never between the driver and the diode?

 

[Ace82]

I can see Good O' Dave has got you right. Use flux when soldering. Don't be afraid, it only takes a split second and a touch of the soldering gun. I would NEVER not solder my diodes, NEVER.

But don't be discouraged, because you're learning the most effective way...the hard way!

 

[daguin]

ok

just so i have this correct...
rule #1, always solder....
rule #2 if theres a break in the current, it must be between the driver and the batteries, never between the driver and the diode?

Sorry, but yes.

You might want to add a rule #3 -- Always short out the pads (or leads) on the driver (with the power off) just before soldering the diode to them.  That way you know that there isn't a charge stored in the capacitor on the driver that would blow the diode when you connected it.

Peace,
dave
[highlight]
**EDIT**[/highlight] Oh yeah -- NONE of this stuff is intuitive. The only way to know it is to either read about it or talk to someone who knows about it.

 

[Mohrenberg]

shorting them out as in......say connecting a light bulb like afrom a mini mag lite.....anything that would use up the stored electricity?

 

[daguin]

shorting them out as in......say connecting a light bulb like afrom a mini mag lite.....anything that would use up the stored electricity?

You can just place a piece of wire across them, touch a screwdriver to them, or anything metal that can touch both pads (or leads in this case) at the same time.  If the wires you have soldered to the driver are long enough you can just touch them together.  Any stored charge will flow to ground.  You can then safely solder the diode to the driver

Peace,
dave