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FrozenGate by Avery

Help Me Build My Next Laser!

I still don't see why he did it. I was just stating my opinion that it seems like a bit of a waste when you could be getting around 300mW. You want 100mW and i respect that. :)
 





I think I might be going for a bit more than 100mW now, hopefully :)
 
I know what you mean about the money :( Moh stopped selling c6 JAD kits but he will have 501B JAD kits soon, i would prefer a 501B to a c6.
 
Should be getting a job soon, too bad your parents don't let you :(. Oh I didn't know that, but yeah I do prefer the 501B anyway.
 
Okay guys so I'm wanting to get this laser built again! Sadly Moh doesn't sell JAD kits anymore, so this might be a little more difficult. How does this look?

Diode
Lense Which lense do I get? Is it the '635nm-660nm AR Coated Three Element Glass Lens'?
Driver @378mA
Host
Heatsink
 
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The diode has a lens on it that would work if you are really low on cash, otherwise you want the "635nm-660nm AR Coated Three Element Glass Lens" or the "405-G-2 Glass Lens W/Focus Ring 30% Increase Over Aixiz". The 3-element is cheaper but the G2 will give you superior output.

You are good to go on the driver.

That host would work but you will also need a heatsink. Moh sells those as well:
http://mohgasm.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=5
 
Okay thanks. The heatsink! Don't know how I forgot that, I think I'll get the black aluminum. Updated previous post :).
 
Looks like i'm a little late, but it seems that you are going for the same first build i did. Check the 650nm c6 build in my sig. I made a some what thorough tutorial using almost exactly same parts.
I would suggest not getting the three element, the acrylic that comes on it is just fine.
The only difference the 3-element will do is drop a little power. (mine reads 235mW w/acrylic, ~205mW with 3-element.

In the future, or if you haven't ordered yet, survival lasers has good host/heatsink kits. Thats where i got mine.

Oh, some tips when putting together.

Feed the diode leads into the pill and solder to driver. Then press driver into the brass ring. I didn't get this at first, and you may notice in my build picks.. :tinfoil:
After that you can press the brass ring into the pill.

Also remember, you can solder it all, then slide the diode module through the heatsink (with heatsink in top part of host). You may have to remove the lens to do this.
Personally, i put the HS into the top section, then slide in the diode and lock it. Then feed leads through the pill, as mentioned above. This way, after sodering and pill assembly, you just put together.

Becareful screwing it together too. Good luck!
 
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Reactions: Gun
I have seen your thread before, thanks very much :).

I've heard that the acrylic lens can melt down after time, so I should get a glass one, isn't this true?

Do you think I should get THIS instead of THIS?
 
Gun said:
I have seen your thread before, thanks very much :).

I've heard that the acrylic lens can melt down after time, so I should get a glass one, isn't this true?

Do you think I should get THIS instead of THIS?
Click to expand...

I've run mine for 2 min, and have used it a fair amount, so far the lens is fine. At this relatively low power, the acrylic is fine.

I actually ask DTR about the acrylic vs g2, and he recommended staying with the acrylic. It only becomes a problem at higher powers. It can gandle 200 - 300mW fine.

You could get the SL DIY kit, thats what i used. Still needs a heatsink. You would probably get it faster, and you can get the heatsink too, though thier expensive. Mohgasm or cajunlasers have cheaper heatsinks.

The funny thing is, survival lasers $20 kit includes a heatsink, but no pill, which they charge 5 bucks for.

Personally i would get the first you linked to, if only because dx is SLOW.
 
Would the lens I use have an effect on how nice the dot looks? If not, I'll just get acrylic.

So you recommending getting THIS along with the heatsink from Moh?
 
Well, that's what I did! :beer:

I didn't notice any difference in dot or beam between acrylic or 3-element.

I remember readimg somewhere that the acrylic make a clean dot because the lens holder is black, which reduces reflections. The darker tint of the acrylic also helps. Glass Lenses, I think, get reflections from the side, causeing wings and such.

For this diode, acrylic is best, IMO.
 
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