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FrozenGate by Avery

Group buy for 16X dvd burner diodes !

  • Thread starter Thread starter SenKat
  • Start date Start date
Aseras said:
[quote author=Gazoo link=1183788027/240#251 date=1185818245][quote author=pseudonomen137 link=1183788027/240#250 date=1185817208] You just dont want to get it so that ice condenses on them from the atmosphere
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Is there anyway of preventing this? The diode would have to be cooled before it is turned on. I guess I am wondering how long can it be cooled before it starts to condensate, given normal room temperature and humidity.
[/quote]


you pot the connections and on the high end stuff, you seal everything up tight and put it under a inert gas so there's no water in the air inside. All of my stuff gets bottled in argon when it goes deep. It's often close to freezing, so florida air + freezing in seawater = condesationa all over inside. can't have that. [/quote]


If you're good with electronics, you could also rig up from scratch a digital thermostat to control the temp of the TEC to let say 10C, similar to what they do in high powered DPSS lab modules (or whatever temperature that would prevent condensation from occurring). If you're not so good, you could also try and make one from a ready made thermostat unit that you can easily buy from your local electronic shops and pair the output / alarm with a 555 timer IC to control the TEC via a switching relay and you're done. Easy isn't it ;D.
 





Not really ;D But thanks. Maybe I will just stick with the heatsink/fan method ;)
 
yuip said:
Yeah, that could very well be the case. It makes sense though that these could very easily do 250mW CW under enough cooling, considering that's what they are speced at pulsed in the data sheet. If I could get that much out of one of 'em, I'll be pretty happy. I don't really expect to match your 400mW, but want to come as close as I can. :o
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How many LDs did you order? If you order plenty of em, build some within its safety margin and push some of the left overs to the max just for the hell of it ;D. It's great fun experience it first hand. I know I will at least kill one of em ;). Or if you only order a few of them, wait for others then. If I have the time I'll let you guys know what I think these LDs could safely be driven at.

Cheers.
 
vathink said:
How many LDs did you order? If you order plenty of em, build some within its safety margin and push some of the left overs to the max just for the hell of it  ;D. It's great fun experience it first hand. I know I will at least kill one of em  ;). Or if you only order a few of them, wait for others then. If I have the time I'll let you guys know what I think these LDs could safely be driven at.

Cheers.
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I have 3 (out of 5) Rohm diodes left over from the dr_lava group buy on CPF, and I bought 5 of the Sony diodes in this group buy. So I have 8 total, but I really only want to push 1 extra hard. I think I'll build Daedal's circuit to go up to 600mA, maybe 650mA, depending on how sensitive the pot is.
 
Does anyone know what type these are -  M, N or P?

mnpldtypesqj3.jpg


Paul
 
I'm pretty sure these are the P type but I don't care about the feedback diode.  They only yell "HELP" !!!

Mike
 
Whoa, you kids talking about pushing more than half an amp of current through the diode might want to reconsider. I've got to wonder how long the diode would hold out that much over spec. The CW power is rated at 80mW, the approximate current to reach this is 130 mA according to the spec PDF.

Hopefully senkat or someone can sample to power output of these diodes at several different current levels and we can then get some idea what the slope/power curve is. There is a point of diminishing returns and I imagine anything over 500 mA is not going to get you much more power than 250-300 mA - you'll just cook the diode that much faster. Sometimes you tell by eye when increasing the power (current) is reaching dangerous levels - the output will go from 'pure' and very speckly (and specular) to milky and less speckly as you begin to overload the diode. Hard to describe but you'll know it when you see it.

I found the data sheet on the diode a bit wanting - does anyone know of a better one than:
sony.net/Products/SC-HP/cx_news/vol37/pdf/sld1236vl.pdf
I would be nice to know the diode type when looking for a power supply.
??
 
Mike: Thanks.

Greg: Did these come with a data sheet?



flogged said:
I found the data sheet on the diode a bit wanting - does anyone know of a better one than:
sony.net/Products/SC-HP/cx_news/vol37/pdf/sld1236vl.pdf
I would be nice to know the diode type when looking for a power supply.
??
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Ditto!

I've been trying to find a "real" datasheet on line but have not been too successful.  Anyone else have any luck.

Paul
 
Another thing I wanted to mention -- get some 5.6 mm diode sockets!!

It's a bad idea to solder anything directly to the diode legs, especially if you're not skilled with a soldering iron. Get a socket and you can take your time soldering it to whatever power supply you use and then just plug the diode in. And if you're going to attempt to push the power output this makes putting a new diode in (for torturing) easy if you pop the one in place.
 
Yeah, and if you have torn apart a dvd burner some of the small plugs that are in there will work too. Funning thing though, the last dvd burner I tore apart didn't have any. It was all ribbon cables.

The minimum order at oselectronics is $10.00. Thanks for the link though. If I can find $10.00 worth of stuff I can use I will probably end up getting a few.

Added: Problem solved. They have the 100 ohm trimmer pot Daedal is using in his circuit :)
 
SWEET!!! Thanks SenKat for all of your help to make this possible. Now I just have to wait for the diode to arrive at my door step. Hehehe ;D.
 
paper183 said:
[quote author=SenKat link=1183788027/255#267 date=1185924630]Okay all - ALL DIODES HAVE SHIPPED ! (Finally)
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Not mines I hope  ::)[/quote]

you asked to delay till the 16th, correct ?
 
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