Going to finally attempt RG=Y

[mfo]

What the title says. I was thinking of using an o-like 50mW along with a small red diode from the 12x sleds. Any advice?

For green, I was thinking of using a voltage potentiometer to better balance the beam color. Think this'll work?

Any tips as to what to use to hold and position the mirror?

I'm totally new to this, so any/all tips are welcome.

Also, this thread will become pic heave if I pull this off!

 

[532 with Envy]

I'v been working on the same thing of late....actually cooked my little test green module with my first set-up. Lucky it was just a cheap one.

I picked up some sleds in bulk and harvested the dicro's from them. They pass green and reflect red, I would be more than happy to send you a few to work with if you like. They are sled optics and small but from what i'v done so far work.

Edit:
I can actually send you a few of the full sleds..... like I said the optics are small but they are free at least:beer:

 

[mfo]

I'v been working on the same thing of late....actually cooked my little test green module with my first set-up. Lucky it was just a cheap one.

I picked up some sleds in bulk and harvested the dicro's from them. They pass green and reflect red, I would be more than happy to send you a few to work with if you like. They are sled optics and small but from what i'v done so far work.

Edit:
I can actually send you a few of the full sleds..... like I said the optics are small but they are free at least:beer:

That would be awesome, thanks! I'd rather just the optics since I have no experiece harvesting them and with my luck I'll probably ruin them. How much would I owe you for em?

Also, what part of queens do you live in?

 

[532 with Envy]

It's pretty easy to harvest the optics, but I do have the good parts all split apart.

Nothing is owed for these.....The optics come from PHR-803T, I can give you a few dicros, beam splitters(very small), other optics and the red/IR diode that was left in them.

I live in Maspeth, Queens...pretty near to Victor(DieselMarine)

 

[Leodahsan]

@mfo
assuming 50mW green (real 50mW) you will need 255mW of 660nm red for get a perfect yellow color.
for a somehow 'orange' color, you will need 300mW of red

hope that helps. I can try other combinations if you need.

 

[mfo]

@mfo
assuming 50mW green (real 50mW) you will need 255mW of 660nm red for get a perfect yellow color.
for a somehow 'orange' color, you will need 300mW of red

hope that helps. I can try other combinations if you need.

Thanks. I'm going to use a small open can red diode since they run cool and don't have wings. I'm going to run it at about 360mA or so, then just see if I can lower the power of the green by cutting the voltage a tad.

 

[Meatball]

Don't try adjusting the green module's power output. Let it run at the power that it was designed to run at. Instead, keep your 50mws of 532 and adjust the amount of red you have in reference to the green you have. 250mws -300mws of 650 sounds about right just for a place to start.

Another thing to consider is beam diameter. The red diode will have a much larger one than the greenie initially, so look into either using a small beam expander from another green module to expand the green beam, or use one of jayrobs' lenses for red, to get a smaller red beam.

This will improve the look of the dot at far field, and will give you a better yellow effect from the midair beam.

 

[Leodahsan]

@mfo
NP. If you want further calculations just ask but I recommend you follow what Meatball said; just adjust the red output, as 250mW of red isn't THAT much..
or use a neutral density filter.. I do not recommend to mess with the electronics of the greenie...

 

[anselm]

If the green module is like every green module I've seen, you can do one (or both) of two things
to tone it down a bit:
1.Give it less than 3V, like 2.7 for example
2.Pot-mod it so it's less bright. No harm done there.

I hope you will achieve to balance a nice color yellow, with the help of these "tunings".

 

[RA_pierce]

50mW of green (if actual) is going to easily outshine 200mW of ~655nm.
20-30mW of green will be sufficient for a bright and balanced yellow.
At least, that's what my eyes+brain perceives.

 

[hakzaw1]

thanks to all for this post --yellow and magenta lasers should be very interesting and low cost at the same time. I have a magenta labby won at eekbay from sunclanlasers- only was 51$ too!!! nice color but no where near the advertized 300 mWs. n/p
runs from 5vdc.

nice color- i an thinking it is a PHR + loc

i will be opening it up soon as the warranty time has now passed

i will add pics here if that is cool with the OP

hak

 

[mfo]

Thanks for your feedback everyone. I will carefully weigh all of my options. The only thing I really don't have a game plan for yet is how I'm going to mount the modules and the optics. Clueless on this one lol.

@Len - Yeah, go for it dude. I'd love to see some pics

 

[Cyparagon]

20-30mW of green will be sufficient for a bright and balanced yellow.
At least, that's what my eyes+brain perceives.

Brightness and equal mixing are two different things. 1W of 445 balances nicely with 1W of green, yet is FAR dimmer.

 

[Leodahsan]

The three factors that mainly effect the mixing are eye sensitivity, rayleigh scattering and eye variations.. eye sensitivity is the rule that 555nm is the center of human sensitivity. Rayleigh scattering affects mainly beams, but it has something to do with the final mixing IMO).. and eye variations are that, I see 405 as purple and when I point to something brown (like dark wood) it goes WHITE lol.. my father see it blue many times I see it white or purple tho. Each brain + eyes are different, I even read that some people got their (green) sensitivity dimished by blue light by many months.. that could change the results too..!
I can calculate the scattering too of the wavelengths too!

equivalents:
48mW 532nm = 1W 445 (source: chroma)
adding rayleigh scattering equation
99.3mW 532nm needed = 1W 445 (alike beams, according to chroma 48mW = 1000mW)


THE ONLY way to get the whole thing working fine.. is to adjust the pots while the thing is on.

@Cyparagon
they don't balance very well without corrective optics , but agreed 445nm is dimmer.

 

[Meatball]

^^Whoa what kind of math just happened there?

You can't run such numbers by me without sharing your equations with me!

 

[Plan B]

I've read countless times on this forum that a good place to start when mixing yellow is 4 to 1 mW, red to green. I see above that both Leo and Meat recommend 5-6 to 1 mW ratio. In his review of the CNI PGL-RG 150mW ohada recorded 145 mW green to 30 red for a ratio of about 4.8 to 1. From the pics he posted I would say it made for a nice colored yellow.

Is there a formula to calculate perceived frequency? Say you take two or more lasers of known mw and nm and assume perfect alignment and beam characteristics, can you then calculate the apparent frequency of the combined light? I know your not actually producing 589 nm light but can you calculate that it would look like 589 nm.

MFO, I've seen some very cool DIY optic mounts on this site that look pretty simple to make. A drill, a dremmel, some L bracket, small bolts and springs is about all it would take I think. It would probably be tricky to mount small optics harvested from a sled though. If space restrictions are an issue you might be better off to buy. You can also buy mountable labby style heatsinks for the modules. I'm not sure how you could DIY those effectively.