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FrozenGate by Avery

GB laser barrels

I wanted to let everyone know that if they want the option of having the barrel shipped prior to the driver getting to me are certainly welcome to do so. I must say though that if you do choose to go this option, that You'll either have to pay for shipping for the driver seperate (a whole wopping $1 probably) We've had 4 people opt to get thier barrels early and have me ship drivers seperatly or have worked out another option to get thier drivers. I certainly don't mind one way or another and I know I would love to get my hands on one of these babies so I could at least fondle and grope it, waiting for the driver. Tweak it a bit and experiment with it. You can build a lm317 and get it to fit. Hemlock Mike has done so already with his purple people eater.

If you want your barrel shipped prior to the drivers. All one needs to do is Pm me or email me at kenkassidy@hotmail.com with the transaction # referencing back to the original purchase and make a payment of $1 for shipping of the driver at a later time. with paypal fee's it's less than a buck that I get. so I'm certainly not getting rich off this. Just figured I'd be nice and offer them to those that want them in advance.
 





GIVETTOME!!!


Ill take the driver later... I wont be using blue's driver anyway, that only goes up to 360mA, for the open can I need 420mA...
 
amkdeath said:
GIVETTOME!!!


Ill take the driver later... I wont be using blue's driver anyway, that only goes up to 360mA, for the open can I need 420mA...
Click to expand...

Somehow I just knew you were going to be in this list of folks who wanted it now!! I'd caution you. Going 420ma is pushing the open can just a little bit according to lava's graph. I'm driving mine at 380ma and am getting 250mw!

I encourage folks to post in this thread thier experiences in assembling thier barrels. Pictures are welcome and I can give you some advice already having already put together a few of these barrels. Soooo. Look for that post here in the next few days.
 
Hmmmm....
I do not want to be a nag or anything but ::) about how much longer for the drivers?
Because depending on the time I just might want to fondle my barrel until it comes. Maybe put a finish on it. ;D
 
I've not a clue what the progress of the drivers is. Every attempt at finding out the status of the drivers from bluefusion is met with silence.
 
I'm sure Blue is all over it, if he got all the parts at once i'm sure he's busy as hell getting everything together.
Remember Kenom, not everyone in the GB section updates as often as you do =) you seem to live in this forum and we love you for it.
 
I am getting my open can soon, and I will use one of my GB boards (no advertising intended) with the DDL driver to run it!! this'll be awesome!!

so many lasers to build... so little time....
 
Ok here is a little heads up concerning these barrels. The threads of the head for the lens is not the correct thread straight from the manufacturer. I do have a tap that I've been chasing the threads with. However in order to cut these threads I'm using a cutting lubricant. I do NOT have the time to clean up each of the lube off each so when you all get them take the time to CLEAN THE HEAD.
 
Hello Ken,

Can you shoot me mine?
I see a much longer wait if awaiting on the drivers.
I ordered ten of them when BF first listed them, so I can do without it for now, or all together.
Maybe he can just send me 11 of them once done?
I will drop you a PM as well in case you don't trip across this.

Thanks,
Joe
 
well, I received it, and PLEASE, post something on how to properly assemble the tail cap. I almost broke mine, until I realized the metal ring goes under the cliky switch...

I am also having driver problems... I guess I will have to wait for the Fusion drive, or my PCB to come... I broke a LD while screwing the top in, because everything turned, but the driver didn't, and so I twisted the leads off the LD...


I guess I was too excited to receive my long awaited KROWNAGE barrel...

I must say, A+++++++^150 on the barrel kenom, WELL DONE AND VERY PROFESSIONAL LOOKING!
 
Walkthrough as follows.  tail the tail section that is hollow and insert the rubber tailcap into the center of the tail section.  Push it all the way until it is poking out the back end of the tail.  Then into the barrel goes the metal o-ring on top of the rubber tail cap.  This gets pushed all the way down until it is nice and snug on top of the rubber.  Then goes in the clicky with the spring facing up!  Push it all the way down until it won't go down any further.  It will fit inside the inside diamter of the o-ring with the outer portion of the clicky resting on the o-ring.  You then put in your snap ring making sure it fits into the groove for the snap ring and your set.
Pictures for those with attention issues reading words.


DSC00058.jpg

DSC00059.jpg

DSC00060.jpg

DSC00061.jpg
 
Next portion of the walkthrough.

Installing the diode and driver.

First thing your going to want to do is go out an actually purchase an aluminum spacer from ace hardware. (or equivelent hardware store) Pictures are here.  DO NOT GET ONE WITH A BEVELED EDGE. it allows the diode to move from side to side and that's bad.

DSC00059-1.jpg


The one labeled MEH.  is a nylon spacer and it will work although not as well as the aluminum one's.  Both of these cost in the neighborhood of $1.  This is going to be small enough to fit the pins into but large enough to not be hard to handle.  Before you insert the diode it's a good idea to make a bevel on the diode insertion hole.

DSC00058-2.jpg


Now just like an aixiz module your going to make a diode sandwich and fit it into your vice.  I recommend a peice of wood on the top of the barrel to protect from damage to the aluminum from the vice.  Press it all together going slowly so you don't misalign the diode and the spacer.  This should slide in pretty easily.  Artic silver helps lubricate it and go in smoother but only use a very small amount.  You should now have the diode pressed into the head.

Next your going to mount your driver to your diode.  The driver was initially setup to be soldered directly to the pins on the diode.  However doing so usually ends up in catastophe because the driver doesn't center right and you end up tearing off the pins as the barrel spins but the driver doesn't.  To resolve this issue, solder two small wires to the driver and then solder them to the pins on teh diode.  This allows freedom of movement of the placement of the driver.  IE centering the driver in the barrel.  Lava has recommended drilling some small holes in the head next to the driver and use it as a ancor for hot glue to hold the driver in place.  This works very well.  I've show a picture of the head assembled below.
DSC00058-1.jpg


For those wondering about the straw.  it works well to prevent the spring from contacting the side of the barrel and only the top of the batteries.
 
I have a good question.....
Wouldn't it be much easier to just send the driver's in pieces with some sort of schematics? It seems like it is too much trouble to assemble all of them. :o :o :o

unless you have an assembly line going, this can be a time consuming task.
 
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