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FrozenGate by Avery

FS: Pocket Mini Build Kit! - Easy Assembly!

The battery is a primary 3.0 volt and is new. My DMM shows 2.92volts on the battery no load. I dont know how to test it with a load, maybe I should buy an energizer CR123 or so to try it maybe my battery just stinks. I have some Rechargeable batteries on order from DX if they ever come in, been weeks.
 





Sometimes the battery can show voltage, but when you put a load on it, it won't handle it...

This is more rare with primaries, but I have experienced it. Always start with buying a new battery to make sure.

The driver would be the next thing to check. The proper way to check the driver would be to remove the diode and use a test load.

But I know the driver was working properly, so I suspect that your battery is bad.

One more thing...

Take a close look at the picture in this post:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f39/fs-pocket-mini-build-kit-easy-assembly-22537-5.html#post479406

Notice how I have the wires at the diode bent over. (wires bent, not pins)

This is to make more room. If you did not do this, your diode pins may be putting pressure on the driver, and perhaps causing some kind of connection issue or something...
 
I dont have a test load to test it with, and the battery was new. My heat shrink is bent. I'm Lost
 
So for some reason I don't get anything from it now. It was doing a soft faint puprle before off the cr123a but now I don't get any output at all. My diode is a tested GGW and I tried it again with a new cr123 and nothing. Any thoughts?
 
I take back my last post. I do get something from it but it can not even be seen if not in total blackness because it is so dim. I will buy a new energizer cr123 today see I'd that fixes it somehow but thus seems very weird. I thought that the flexdrive was an all or nothing driver. Works or not. Why would I get some light just have it be super dim? Sorry for so many posts -Mike
 
It sounds like your diode LED'd...

That's always a bummer. I honestly don't think it is a driver or a battery problem.

Diodes are so sensitive. They can be damaged from the tiny spark from the tip of your finger. Or if they get too hot when soldering.

But from what you are describing, it sounds like the diode is dead...
 
But what doesn't make sense to me is that yesterday it was acting up the first time I powered it and was dim right away. When I gave it 4.2 volts it worked. Now it's back to Being dim. How can I test to find out if the diode or driver or maybe the host ground maybe is bad. I have the red diode frm the ggw sled. If I solder that on instead of the GGW will that tell me if the driver has a problem? Or not because red needs different voltage.
 
It would tell you, as long as the red diode is working...

You don't have to worry about voltage. This is automatic in this set up. The diode will take only what it needs. And the current will run the red diode just fine at 190mA's. (I believe that's what we set it at right?)

Of course the pin connection is different for the red diode. But you know that correct?

Trouble shooting is best to have a test load for the driver. And also a test supply. I have a host with driver and two leads specifically for testing diodes so that I can check the diode.

99% of the time, in a case such as you are describing, it is the diode, not the driver.

But there is still the possibility that maybe there is a connection issue.

If the lead wires between the diode and driver were the connection problem, then this could easily kill the diode. Because the driver cap would charge and then give the diode a voltage spike.

But unless you moved the wire leads around a lot, I doubt that the solder points on the driver came loose...
 
I tried a new battery, no light. When I first put it together I had a problem immediatly with the light cmng on decent then immeditly gettng dim. All I had to personally do to put this together was solder your leads frm the driver to the leads on the diode that flamingpyro put on then heatshrink them and twist it together. It had probs rght away. This makes me doubt that I ruined the diode at least not on my own as I got it already pressed into the module. I will try the red diode and see if it works. I know the pins are different. Do you know what the pinout is for the red can diode from the GGW sled?

Sorry for my grammer and spelling I wrote this on my iPhone
 
Remember, there is always the possibility of the wires getting twisted, or even 'pulled' a little if the assembly was not done very carefully.

Not saying that it happened, but just something to think about if it is a 'short' issue.

Anyway, here is the red diode pin connection: (take a close look at the wire leads that are soldered to the driver. But note that my soldering is usually on the back side of the driver)

pin%20out.jpg


Also, not that it would make you feel any better, but most people kill a diode or two in the learning process.

Building becomes easy to do, but there is a learning curve that we all have to go through.

Even though I've probably built a couple of hundred lasers or more, I can still kill a diode once in a while. It can happen very easy to anybody...
 
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If I killed the diod that sucks all I did was solder two wires never got near the driver or the diode when I had problems. What do I need to know about taking out the driver and checking the solders on the back side. I see the double sided tape on there. To solder in the red diode I will need to put some new wire on the driver as yours is too short now. I have mouse cord wire standing by. I should have a chance to put the red diode on tonight or tomorrow morning to test.
 
If you did not let the wires get moved around a lot, and you don't suspect that they may have a bad connection at the driver, then you don't need to take the driver out. Just expose the solder at the pins, and load your tip with a little solder. Then touch it to the pin while slightly pulling on the wire, and it will unsolder almost instantly...

If you have to take the driver out, you just have to carefully pry it up from the edges. The tape is very sticky, but if done carefully, you will be able to pry it up.

If you do this, then you will be checking all solder connections. If you can use the first method, and unsolder the wire from the diode, you would still be able to put a bit more solder on the top side of the FlexDrive to make sure of the connections without necessarily removing the driver.

But as you can see, the driver is very small, and you need a fine tipped solder iron. Make sure your tip is clean, pre-tinned, and a little flux on the solder is also very helpful...
 
aynonemus serv3d, just to let you know that I am sending your Pocket Mini 'Hot' option kit (and extra item) today. (Friday)

I have it set at 420mA's per your request...

Thanks!
 
Nemo2423, congratulations on your raffle drawing!

I am sending your Pocket Mini kit with copper heatsink today. (Monday)

Enjoy!
 
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Pocket Mini kits that shipped today: (Wednesday)

lazer (and other items)
Deldrice ('Hot' option set at 170mA's - dust cap included as well)

Hope your builds go well!
 
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