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FrozenGate by Avery

FS: Large Maglite Monster Kits! FlexModP3, Side Button Forward Clicky!

jayrob, are these still available?

I have been reading and absorbing as much as I can in the last week or so about lasers and I am looking at the 2D Mag with a 445 from DTR as my first build. A question about your pricing. Do I just order the host and the hot option and I still need just the diode or am I being too hopeful and I need to order the other parts (heatsink, switch prep, etc.) separate?

Another quick question, (just in case I get than answer I don't want :( ) in your document on setting up the flexmod driver, you didn't mention adding a dummy load. Is this driver adjusted correctly when no dummy load is attached?

p.s. I have caught the focus on safety, what would be the most economical pair of eye protection (as I have realized this isn't a cheap hobby! :P )?

:thanks:
Doug
 





jayrob, are these still available?

I have been reading and absorbing as much as I can in the last week or so about lasers and I am looking at the 2D Mag with a 445 from DTR as my first build. A question about your pricing. Do I just order the host and the hot option and I still need just the diode or am I being too hopeful and I need to order the other parts (heatsink, switch prep, etc.) separate?

Another quick question, (just in case I get than answer I don't want :( ) in your document on setting up the flexmod driver, you didn't mention adding a dummy load. Is this driver adjusted correctly when no dummy load is attached?

p.s. I have caught the focus on safety, what would be the most economical pair of eye protection (as I have realized this isn't a cheap hobby! :P )?

:thanks:
Doug

Yes with my 'Hot' option, all you need is the diode.

I will have the driver set using a test load. Normally 1.8 Amps is considered max, but some are pushing a little higher. Just verify when ordering.

I'll message you with links to safety glasses, kit ordering, etc... :beer:
 
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Hey there,
I already have an M140 build at about 2W, but am tempted by the maglite 2D host. It just looks so fabulous, and with 2 of those 32650 batteries would last a long time too! So for variety's sake, I was considering DTR's 9mm 445nm diode with Lazeerer's v6 xdrive at 2A. Question is whether the "445nm 9mm Diode In V4 Copper Module" available from DTR would fit into the maglite heatsink? I just can't tell whether the V4 copper modules available from DTR with that diode are the standard 12mm that we are used to or are they a different size?
I was thinking of running wires from the diode to the xdrive (instead of the xdrive soldered directly to the back of the diode) and mounting the xdrive on the back of that colossal heatsink. Driver (+) input from the click/slide switch and (-) input from the diode case pin.
Of course, please advise on any obvious pitfalls with this combo.
Thanks, Tom
 
Yep the 9mm copper module is the standard size for 12mm heatsinks just like the Aixiz ones. Sounds ike you have a good plan. Jay's Mag and the sinked driver should provide you with a very long duty cycle.:beer:
 
Wow, DTR, thanks for the fast response!
Well I guess that makes sense, considering you're selling them with the 405-G-2 glass lens! ;-)
Can you mount the original lens or do you just sell the parts and we do it ourselves? You mentioned that the stock lens is comparable to the G2 but I don't know a thing about setting lenses, if its difficult or easy.
Also, what is your experience of running these diodes at 2A? Will that dramatically shorten their life? Would it be about 2.5W output at 2A?
Thanks so much! Tom

EDIT: Right, the chart clearly states about 2.5W at 2000mA!
 
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Hey there,
I already have an M140 build at about 2W, but am tempted by the maglite 2D host. It just looks so fabulous, and with 2 of those 32650 batteries would last a long time too! So for variety's sake, I was considering DTR's 9mm 445nm diode with Lazeerer's v6 xdrive at 2A. Question is whether the "445nm 9mm Diode In V4 Copper Module" available from DTR would fit into the maglite heatsink? I just can't tell whether the V4 copper modules available from DTR with that diode are the standard 12mm that we are used to or are they a different size?
I was thinking of running wires from the diode to the xdrive (instead of the xdrive soldered directly to the back of the diode) and mounting the xdrive on the back of that colossal heatsink. Driver (+) input from the click/slide switch and (-) input from the diode case pin.
Of course, please advise on any obvious pitfalls with this combo.
Thanks, Tom

Using the X-Drive, it also give you other options with a 2D Mag...

You would have room for a voltage monitor using that driver. Details of the voltage monitor that I'm talking about are shown in my 1000 lumen Mag thread:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f64/f...ltage-monitor-parts-complete-light-59581.html

Then if you went with a voltage monitor, you would also have a further option of also having a key switch, that could then be wired it in such a way so that the voltage monitor would also double as an 'armed indicator' light as shown in this build:
 
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Hi Jayrob,
Those are nice options indeed...
Is there a major concern of over-discharging the unprotected 32600's in the maglite/laser combo?
Also, you seem to be in great favor for the Feilong 32650's for the flashlight build, but how much do you recommend them over regular 32600 for a laser build, when the current draw will be less? Are they that much better/longer lasting? Lastly, the charger that you recommend (Ultrafire WF-188 3.7v Charger) will it also charge my 18350s and 16340s?
Oh one more question, the tailcap mod for protected 32600s. Is it just a matter of clipping and/or replacing the spring or do you have to drill out some of the tailcap for the longer batteries to fit? In other words, is it something I can do myself, or need special machinery to do? I have a lot of power tools but certainly not a machine shop! :-)
Thanks! Tom
 
Hi Jayrob,
Those are nice options indeed...
Is there a major concern of over-discharging the unprotected 32600's in the maglite/laser combo?
Also, you seem to be in great favor for the Feilong 32650's for the flashlight build, but how much do you recommend them over regular 32600 for a laser build, when the current draw will be less? Are they that much better/longer lasting? Lastly, the charger that you recommend (Ultrafire WF-188 3.7v Charger) will it also charge my 18350s and 16340s?
Oh one more question, the tailcap mod for protected 32600s. Is it just a matter of clipping and/or replacing the spring or do you have to drill out some of the tailcap for the longer batteries to fit? In other words, is it something I can do myself, or need special machinery to do? I have a lot of power tools but certainly not a machine shop! :-)
Thanks! Tom

For over discharging, it mostly depends on what driver you have. Check with lazeerer about the X-Drive. Find out what the minimum input voltage is. If it's less that 6 volts to run it, then you would be better off with a voltage monitor, or protected cells.

But it's not an absolute necessity. You just have to be aware of your battery condition.

The voltage monitor just makes it nice to know how your batteries are doing. More so with a flashlight mod. Since normally a flashlight gets a lot more use vs a laser...

It changes color to let you know where your batteries are at:

Bright blue - Full charge
Cyan - Very good
Green - Good
Yellow/Amber - Low warning
Red - Batteries low (70%)

About the batteries. Other cells are fine, but if you want the best, get the Feilong cells. They were tested here:
Feilong Li-Ion 32650 cells TESTED!

About the tail cap mod. I have not seen protected 32600's, but if you are talking about the protected 32650's from Novae, then yes, the tail cap needs machining on the inside to expose to bare metal. So that the modified spring can get good contact to bare metal when you fit it inside the tail cap. (instead of the stock position)

Also, for those cells, you need to machine the front of the tail cap larger so that the back of the battery can fit in. You have to be careful not to cut too deep, or you will loose the threads. See this thread for details of the tail cap mod to fit protected 32650's:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f42/9-amp-pt-54-phlatlight-maglite-mod-64054.html

With the Feilong cells, no tail cap mod is needed in a 2 cell build. Just clip the spring shorter is all...

About the charger. Yes the WF-188 charger will charge the other sizes you asked about...
 
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:bumpit:

Update:

I now have custom built single cell voltage monitors and they work great! :cool: (for single Li-Ion)

So I will now offer a voltage monitor option for Mag Stubby builds... (same
price - $58 dollar option)
 
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I'm itching to do this mod to my 2-D Mag light, but was wondering if it's possible to incorporate the half-dozen 18650 cells (not all at once, obviously) I have laying around, possibly by sleeve-ing them for this host & build?
 
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I'm itching to do this mod to my 2-D Mag light, but was wondering if it's possible to incorporate the half-dozen 18650 cells (not all at once, obviously) I have laying around, possibly by sleeve-ing them for this host & build?

Yes you can sleve them and use 2 X 18650 cells with just a spring mod I'm sure... (easy)
 
Am I right in thinking that, since I already have the 2-D Maglite, I would only need a heatsink to go with a diode, module, lens, & driver?

Or better, a "hot" heatsink+driver to go with, say, this: 445nm 9mm Diode In V4 Copper Module W/Leads & Three Element Glass Lens?

Yes...

I recommend an X-Drive buck driver set up. I have 1.8 Amp and 2.1 Amp on hand...

If I do the 'Hot' option, the driver will be thermal glued to the inside of the host as shown in this picture: (voltage monitor is an option too)

Mag%20D%2013.jpg


For that kind of power, I recommend using my 405-G-1 glass lens, G2, or the stock projector lens for a 9mm diode...

Just send me a PM for ordering a kit! :beer:
 
OK so what would the total price be? im getting the 99 dollar casio projector diode built into a module also and what tools will i need to make this? is the MMS or whatever manditory because all i can get is a soldering iron
 





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