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FrozenGate by Avery

FS: Large Maglite Monster Kits! FlexModP3, Side Button Forward Clicky!






Monadnock, I sent your Maglite 'Hot' option kit with 405-G-1 glass lens today. (Tuesday)

Hope you like the kit!
 
chanw, I sent your Maglite 'Hot' option kit and other items today. (Friday)

Hope that monster build goes well!
 
Sorry no only 3.0 volt cells, I guess I'll have to use my 3 "D" cell maglight and go for a 9.0 volt supply, will that work for me a 9.0 volt supply ?
In my case when the battery monitor goes RED I can ignor it and keep going till the light don't shine any more :crackup:



jayrob said:
Thanks Jeff...

Can you get the 3.7 volt cells?

Those are what is needed with this build...

The FlexModP3 driver needs 1.5 volts above diode demand. So 2 X 3.7 Li-Ion's is perfect...

It seems that Kaidomain is the only one with stock on the 32600's right now:
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductID=2708
Click to expand...
 
For sure the 9 volt supply in a 3D host will be fine for the FlexModP3 driver...

But I'm not sure how the voltage monitor will work out for that set up...

It just might, but not sure.

If you read the specs, it shows that it will handle anywhere from 2 cells, to 7 cells:
http://www.western-robotics.com/pdf/Spectrum_Manual_Print.pdf

But I don't know how it will read that 'in between' voltage. May be just fine...

Edit: I've been staying up too late...

The Spectrum voltage monitor will not fit this build if using the FlexModP3. It fits my XM-L T6 Maglite mod, but not the laser mod with the large P3 driver. (sorry about the confusion)
 
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Key Switch:

I wanted to go ahead and show this key switch tail cap mod that I did in case you want to DIY, but I don't think I'll be offering it. Because it seemed to be too much work to offer it at a reasonable price... (just for a key switch)

If I found an easier way to make it work, then maybe. But with the material I used, I had to machine the tail cap out to fit the fiberglass piece. Which was needed to isolate the spring from the tail cap. (the bottom plate shown, was cut out from a CD)

Mag%20D%2010.jpg

Mag%20D%2011.jpg

Mag%20D%2012.jpg

(this one is for a person who already ordered one with a key switch)

Anyway, it's pretty cool, so just showing it...
 
scopeguy20, Hey Glenn I sent your custom Maglite kit to the specified address today. (Monday)

Can't wait to see how that one turns out...

Thanks!
 
ckamens100, I'm sending your Maglite 'Hot' option kit with AixiZ 445 lens today. (Wednesday)

Hope you like it!
 
I seem to be making an obvious mistake somewhere. I finally received my batteries after a month and tested my load. I connected the diode to the wires and it turns on just fine until I press the aixiz housing into the heatsink. It sounds like a ground issue but Im not sure whats happening exactly. When i try to start it while it is pressed into the heatsink, it does not come on.

Btw, I'm using a red diode with a LM317 DDL. I have the diode connected + to the pos, and - to the case negative pin. Any idea?
 
I know I just sent you a heatsink, so I wouldn't have any idea of your build unless you can show some good pictures...

You did the switch mod?
Got voltage at the lead wires?
Checked current on your driver with a test load?

If your host is case negative, then it should not matter if the heatsink is touching the host or not with a DDL driver and a red build. The diode itself is case negative.

Did you use heat shrink tubing for your solder connections? Maybe the positive connection is touching somewhere??
 
Everything else was good. But I fried another diode taking the housing out and putting it in again. Others pointed out that it was because the LM317's heatsink is also connected to the heatsink, which is positive. I'm still trying to think of a solution to this because both the LM317 and the diode would require a heatsink. :-/

Not sure what to do next
 
sometoymachine said:
Everything else was good. But I fried another diode taking the housing out and putting it in again. Others pointed out that it was because the LM317's heatsink is also connected to the heatsink, which is positive. I'm still trying to think of a solution to this because both the LM317 and the diode would require a heatsink. :-/

Not sure what to do next
Click to expand...

Oh... yes that it the problem...

If your heatsinking the LM317 to the main sink with a red build, then you just need to isolate the LM317 from the heatsink by just not using the cap screw, and just use a thicker layer of thermal adhesive. Then there will not be an electrical connection between the main sink and the LM317. But it will still be heatsinked...

If it were a blu-ray or a 445 build, then it wouldn't matter. Because the diode case is isolated from the positive and negative pins...
 
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Very good write-up. Just confused about one noob thing. Please excuse my ignorance. All I need to finish this build, if I were to buy the hot kit, besides the batteries and charger, is a 12x30 445nm (1000mW) diode in a module. Correct?
 
DakarNick said:
Very good write-up. Just confused about one noob thing. Please excuse my ignorance. All I need to finish this build, if I were to buy the hot kit, besides the batteries and charger, is a 12x30 445nm (1000mW) diode in a module. Correct?
Click to expand...

Yes correct...

You can get the 445 diode from the BST section. A couple of sellers are offering them with the option to have it pre-installed into an AixiZ module with lead wires soldered on. (recommended)

You will not be using the back 'barrel' part of the module. Just the front 'business end'.

Then you will simply connect the diode leads to my driver leads, and then install your batteries. (in that order)

Careful not to power the driver at all, until you first connect your diode. Or if you do, you must be sure to discharge the cap...

Send me a PM for ordering the kit! :)
 
If I had the money I would for sure! I'm still new to lasers and while a 1W laser would be badass, I don't need one. I will, however, order a kit from you if and when the time comes. Thanks for the reply!
 
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